Moving shower rough in drain over 3/4 to 1"

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Jmaclicious

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Curious, I had to rip out an older shower pan due to it cracking around the drain and I will be replacing it with a heavy duty 175 lb cast iron kohler pan... however the rough in on this new pan drain is 3/4 to 1" to the right of my current position... is it possible I could just lean it that way into the new shower pan so i dont have to jack hammer concrete and dig it out in order to do this? Or should I cut down the pipe a bit and add a fernco fitting for more pliability? I could pull it the 1" and put a block to hold it in place. The pictures are the current position, the 2nd pic is where I need it to be when i pull on the pipe. Id rather not have to do more work than necessary!

Drain is ABS pipe.
 

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Terry

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Absolutely not! For the drain to seal properly, it needs to come up vertical. I know it's tempting, but especially with a 175 pound cast shower pan, you do not want anything going wrong with the installation.
 

Jmaclicious

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Absolutely not! For the drain to seal properly, it needs to come up vertical. I know it's tempting, but especially with a 175 pound cast shower pan, you do not want anything going wrong with the installation.

Really, even if the shower drain I will be using is the Kohler K-9132 drain, similar to the oatey no caulk drain with the rubber gasket that slides around the pipe and tightens? Damn.
 

Jadnashua

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The gasket used on those needs an even spacing all around it when it's vertical and plumb to seal properly...a tilted riser just won't work. YOu probably wouldn't be able to get the seal fully in place with it cocked that far in the first place. That's one of the hassles of using a premade pan. A custom mudded pan could handle that easily, but you may not be comfortable switching now, or going that route. Time to break out some concrete.
 

Jmaclicious

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The gasket used on those needs an even spacing all around it when it's vertical and plumb to seal properly...a tilted riser just won't work. YOu probably wouldn't be able to get the seal fully in place with it cocked that far in the first place. That's one of the hassles of using a premade pan. A custom mudded pan could handle that easily, but you may not be comfortable switching now, or going that route. Time to break out some concrete.
Hmm, hard to say i wish i had the shower pan here already so I could see how it lines up before touching anything.. however, i'd prefer not to jack hammer up the concrete and disturb the weeping tile I have going to my sump pit under there and risk taking other drains out of level, i guess worst case scenario I would just take down the back wall and move it over the distance needed.
 

Terry

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Concrete taps out easily with a sledge hammer.
The rubber seal is hard enough to push down when the pipe is coming up without an angle. The last Kohler cast iron shower pan I set needed to be set in mortar. It's pretty messy to pull that up and redo it because you can't push a seal down.
 

Reach4

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Terry

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The hole must be bigger than the nut that holds the drain to the pan. Otherwise the nut will prevent the pan from dropping all the way to the floor.
Normally with a new pan, I cut the old p-trap out and install a new one exactly where the new pan drain will be. I don't want any stress on the drain, and sliding the rubber seal down into the drain is hard enough anyway. I sometimes take a wood shim to tap the rubber seal down.

To locate center, I use a tape measuring device. It isn't that hard to find center. Using the cardboard to mark on works too.

bonheur_04.jpg


Kohler cast iron shower pan.
 

Cacher_Chick

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If the trap is deep enough, it would not be a huge job to cut out an 18" square where the drain is and offset it with a pair of 1/16th or 1/8th bends. There needs to be a 4-6" recess (hole) around the riser for drain to fit into anyway.
 
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