Moving Kitchen Sink to adjacent wall.

[Quinn Linford]

I would like to move my kitchen sink to an adjacent wall. My question is, can I route the drain pipe through the wall from the new skink and tie it into the existing plumbing where the existing sink is? The new and old locations are both about 53 inches from the corner.

I will certainly run a vent to the roof at the new location as well as leave the original vent attached at the original stub out.

I am fairly certain I can put 2-45 degree angles or a wide sweep at the corner because there is a lazy susan going there and it leaves some dead space in the corner it can go through without compromising the corner studs. There is also a cleanout at the location of the original stub out on the outside of the house.

Anyway, I can figure out all of the details later, but my question is it okay to run a lateral pipe around a corner like this?

Thank you all for sharing your experience with a novice like me.

 

[Jeff H Young]

sure that works!

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Quinn Linford]

Thanks Jeff. Next Question. The wall behind the new sink is a 2x4 bearing wall between the house and garage. I am assuming I need a 2"pipe because the sink services a dishwasher as well. From what I have read, running a 2 inch pipe cuts out too much of the 2x4. Is it okay to support the studs with simpson strong stud shoe HSS (Picture), or should I build the wall out with 2x6s?

Although I don't want to, I could build the wall out into the garage if I need to do the 2x6s. I'd just rather what I do be an acceptable option if the HSS ties are not for this purpose.

 

[wwhitney]

Is this a slab-on-grade, so you're trying to avoid breaking concrete to move the slab entry to your new location? The IPC apparently allows a kitchen sink with dishwasher and disposal on a 1-1/2" drain line, see the following table:

https://up.codes/viewer/texas/ipc-2015/chapter/7/sanitary-drainage#table_709.1

2" would be better from a drainage performance point of view; 1.5" would be better from a stud drilling point of view. The prescriptive rules for drillings studs:

https://up.codes/viewer/texas/irc-2015/chapter/6/wall-construction#R602.6

So with a 1.5" pipe, you could drill 2.1" holes through up to two consecutive studs in the load bearing wall, if you first doubled the studs. If your new sink location allows you to reach the dead space behind the corner cabinet while going through only two studs, then that could work. [Bear in mind the stub out in the kitchen sink cabinet doesn't have to be centered, it can be near one corner.] Otherwise, you would need to do one of the following:

1) Run the pipe outside the wall. It could either go through the rear portion of normal 24" base cabinets (e.g., on a drawer bank, make the appropriate drawer 3" shorter), or you could use 21" base cabinets to create a 3" void behind the cabinets for the pipe.
2) Use a 2x6 wall--not a great option on an existing bearing wall, as you'd have to reframe it.
3) Use stud shoes like the one you show.

I think any of those 3 options would work with a 2" pipe, although I'm a bit hesitant about the 2" pipe through 2x4 single studs with stud shoes. I might be inclined to double the studs and use double stud shoes.

Cheers, Wayne