Moving bathtub drain

[wwhitney]

The drainage path for the tub is entirely horizontal in this configuration. So when I said "vertical wye" I was not sufficiently precise, I mean a wye with horizontal straight inlet, horizontal outlet (perforce), and side inlet upwards most, 45 degrees off plumb, the vent takeoff.

Cheers, Wayne

 

[Tee Jay]

I got stuck to one direction with this. I totally get what you are saying now. I was still running the trap arm back towards the wall, I get what you mean now with the trap configuration. This should work great!

Thanks again!

 

[Sponsor]

 

[wwhitney]

Glad we muddled through the confounders to find a hopefully reasonable solution. Post a picture when you're done.

Cheers, Wayne

 

[Tee Jay]

Inspection completed this morning, passed with no issues. Thanks again for all your help on this Wayne!

There is just enough clearance with the tub around the 45 vent and the double 3" lines were cleaned up to the single.

 

[wwhitney]

Very good, I take it you have clearance under the tub for that segment on a 45?

Don't forget to seal all the bottom plate penetrations, the joist bay below should not communicate air with the stud bay above. That's a firestopping requirement, at least here in the US.

Cheers, Wayne

 

[Tee Jay]

Very good, I take it you have clearance under the tub for that segment on a 45?

Don't forget to seal all the bottom plate penetrations, the joist bay below should not communicate air with the stud bay above. That's a firestopping requirement, at least here in the US.

Cheers, Wayne

Yes luckily the tub we went with is a 66x36 so it has a large deck for accommodating a deck mounted faucet on all sides and the space is 67" so I can build out that wall with the vents a bit. With adding a layer of 5/8 ply everywhere for the tile it gives just enough space to make it all work.

I will seal everything up now that the inspection is complete and passed. I didn't want to seal yet if I had to do rework.

 

[wwhitney]

I will seal everything up now that the inspection is complete and passed. I didn't want to seal yet if I had to do rework.

I figured, just thought I'd mention it.

I guess the undertub space is also a potential communication route between the joist bay and the stud bay. So you'll either need to seal around all the subfloor holes, or seal the face of the stud bays. The latter, at least for US codes, can be done by just using tight packed mineral wool in the stud bays up to the tub deck, if I recall correctly.

Cheers, Wayne

 

[Tee Jay]

Well the tub finally arrived earlier this year and I wrapped up the other projects I started in the meantime so I am back to this bathroom install.

Turns out the wall by the drain needs to be built out about 2.5" now that I have the actual tub on site. With that build out the tub shoe is too short as shown in the attached picture. I put the tub in place and traced the actual drain hole which is where the shoe is sitting. I bought this OS&B kit because the overflow assembly has a flexible copper neck.l which I thought would be useful.

What are my options here? My thought was to buy an ABS tub shoe that I could then run whatever length back to a tee above the trap and a slip trap adapter to the overflow assembly with the flexible neck that I already have.

Would it also be acceptable to run a slip trap adapter on the horizontal from the tee above the ptrap with an abs extension to use the brass tub shoe I already have?

At my local store there is also a complete abs kit that I could get instead. With that though the roughed in drain is basically in the wall so could I use a couple of 45s above the trap for the overflow? I don't think it is going to line up with the rough in going straight up to the overflow.

 

[wwhitney]

Is this waste and overflow going to be accessible after the job is done? If not, there should be no slip joint connections, just glue joint.

Cheers, Wayne

 

[Tee Jay]

The front panel is magnetic, so it will be accessible. Wouldn't be a great job to have to get in there but it could be done. After thinking about it overnight, I think switching to a glued ABS drain kit would be better and then I can just use whatever 22s or 45s necessary to bring the overflow to where it needs to be.