Moving a double drain

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Reevesk3

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Hello to all and thanks in advance. I am in a townhouse that is attached to the neigbor and we share drains. Pictured is the inside of my wall (which have all the drains) and what you see is a double Wye that extends to both of our bathroom sinks. I would like to move my drain 18” down the wall to the red dot to accommodate the new vanity that I have going in. What drain fitting would I use in place of the double wye to tie their drain back in place?
 

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All Fug Duck

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As that is copper and solder joints, it's too dangerous to be in there with a torch even as a Plumber. the next thing is you'll be taking too much out of the studs to extend it. so first I'd remove more sheetrock and make sure the studs aren't load-bearing. if not, drill new holes from that point in the studs. then cut the copper off near the 45 bend and solder on a DWV FIP adapter. then convert all of it to PVC with a sanitary tee on its side going to the neighbor and a 1/4 bend turning out to your sink. you'll convert it to PVC with a DWV MIP adapter screwed into the FIP copper adapter. some will use rubber Fernco adapters in the place for converting to PVC as to avoid soldering.

I assume the new vanity wouldn't be covering the drain where it comes out of the wall, and you must move it. also, because your drains are copper there may be a case where your townhouse was plumbed that way to prevent toxic fumes of PVC burning. most likely not though, as copper has been used in waste systems over the years........it's just not common other than commercial use, well in my area anyway..
 

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Sylvan

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As that is copper and solder joints, it's too dangerous to be in there with a torch even as a Plumber. the next thing is you'll be taking too much out of the studs to extend it. so first I'd remove more sheetrock and make sure the studs aren't load-bearing. if not, drill new holes from that point in the studs. then cut the copper off near the 45 bend and solder on a DWV FIP adapter. then convert all of it to PVC with a sanitary tee on its side going to the neighbor and a 1/4 bend turning out to your sink. you'll convert it to PVC with a DWV MIP adapter screwed into the FIP copper adapter. some will use rubber Fernco adapters in the place for converting to PVC as to avoid soldering.

I assume the new vanity wouldn't be covering the drain where it comes out of the wall, and you must move it. also, because your drains are copper there may be a case where your townhouse was plumbed that way to prevent toxic fumes of PVC burning. most likely not though, as copper has been used in waste systems over the years........it's just not common other than commercial use, well in my area anyway..

1- Before you state "use PVC" you should know some codes do not allow PVC in buildings over 5 stories


2- The Use of non shielded coupling such as a Fernco is not only illegal it is the worst type of connection

3- Any decent plumber can solder this copper waste line with out fear of setting the building on fire

4- A "plumber" knows there are options to soldering a joint without the use of an open flame as we use in hospitals when an open flame is not an option

5- a decent tool rental company will have one of these to rent


  • RT-175 Electric Soldering Gun

RT-175 Electric Soldering Gun​


If there is a copper waste line stick with copper
 

All Fug Duck

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1- Before you state "use PVC" you should know some codes do not allow PVC in buildings over 5 stories


2- The Use of non shielded coupling such as a Fernco is not only illegal it is the worst type of connection

3- Any decent plumber can solder this copper waste line with out fear of setting the building on fire

4- A "plumber" knows there are options to soldering a joint without the use of an open flame as we use in hospitals when an open flame is not an option

5- a decent tool rental company will have one of these to rent


  • RT-175 Electric Soldering Gun

RT-175 Electric Soldering Gun​


If there is a copper waste line stick with copper
He didn't say it was over 5 stories. myself I'd hard-pipe it all. but most homeowners will do whatever anyway. odds are he's not going to spend money on the soldering gun anyway. so maybe he'll post a little more info for you.
 
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Mr tee

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A couple things about the existing setup - the double elbow is not an appropriate fitting for that use & the way the line dips down before the vent creates an S trap which is wrong.
 

All Fug Duck

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A couple things about the existing setup - the double elbow is not an appropriate fitting for that use & the way the line dips down before the vent creates an S trap which is wrong.
I saw that but didn't bother, it's been there all this time anyway. no mention of gas in the bathrooms from the trap losing water because of it.
 

Reevesk3

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I’m the homeowner here and where I am, no inspector or anything like that will be coming out to look at anything lol. The copper drain that you see is all original to the house built in 1968. As I update the plumbing I have been converting everything to pex and PVC. The wall that I’m working in is the wall that divides our townhomes which are 2 story brick townhomes in Michigan. Attached is a sketch of what I think all fug duck explained but I do have question of where to tie break the copper and go pvc to begin. Thanks again ALL FUG DUCK as you gave me an exceptional detailed answer. I admire this.
CE68D0CC-5653-4668-946E-39C8678AC08E.jpeg
 

All Fug Duck

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I’m the homeowner here and where I am, no inspector or anything like that will be coming out to look at anything lol. The copper drain that you see is all original to the house built in 1968. As I update the plumbing I have been converting everything to pex and PVC. The wall that I’m working in is the wall that divides our townhomes which are 2 story brick townhomes in Michigan. Attached is a sketch of what I think all fug duck explained but I do have question of where to tie break the copper and go pvc to begin. Thanks again ALL FUG DUCK as you gave me an exceptional detailed answer. I admire this.View attachment 85848
The FIP adapter is the starting point. you will need to solder it so that's the only one you'll solder. you can get in copper or brass. the adapter has a solder type joint on one end and female threads on the other end. so, screw a PVC male adapter into that and do the rest of the waste arm in PVC.
 

Reevesk3

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Here is an image of what it look like now. I tried to use the existing drain location but it doesn’t align like I need it to. My vanity is 49” and need to be pushed all the way up against the wall. I can move the water lines, no problem as those are newly ran lines anyway
 

All Fug Duck

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I've seen people just slide the vanity over just enough to get the drain just inside. they use it for storage or whatever. if you have the room and don't mind it that way, would save you from all the work inside the frame wall.
 
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