Move plumbing 1 ft - DIY or hire professional?

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SusaninSC

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We have gutted a bathroom and purchased a furniture style vanity to replace the old vanity cabinet. The location of the sink on the new vanity is approximately 1 foot to the right of the of where the previous sink was located. We are trying to decide if we should call a professional plumber or DIY.

Additional details: We live in SC in a one story house with pier construction; plumbing is coming up from underneath the house. The stud finder indicates there is a stud between the current location of the plumbing, and where it will need to be for the new vanity. To give a visual: In the picture attached, I've shown the current plumbing and the location of the studs (with red lines); the black box indicates the location of where the opening on the back of the new vanity will be (the vanity opening is 8"x8"). The right side of the image is a picture of the new vanity.

We are DIY's with limited plumbing experience: i.e.: we have put in new bathroom fixtures, changed out the food disposal, fixed problems with toilets...but have not done plumbing related soldering (although we have done some soldering and welding in other applications). I've tried googling this - but can't seem to find a video which shows how to attack this so that we can evaluate if this is something we could do on our own. Was hoping someone would be willing to describe how to go about this or provide a link to a related video or post so we could decide which route to go here.
 

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Terry

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Because you have drawers and a shelf below, you will want to move the plumbing in the wall. Make sure your trap arm for the p-trap is high enough that you don't have to notch the shelf below.
The santee in the wall will need to be cut and turned toward the right with a medium 90 pointing out for the lav trap.
Trap arms slope at a 2% grade, or 1/4" inch per foot. The "soldering" can be done with flux and lead-free solder. Or you could use fittings like a Sharkbite if you decide that soldering is going to be too much.
 

SusaninSC

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Because you have drawers and a shelf below, you will want to move the plumbing in the wall. Make sure your trap arm for the p-trap is high enough that you don't have to notch the shelf below.
The santee in the wall will need to be cut and turned toward the right with a medium 90 pointing out for the lav trap.
Trap arms slope at a 2% grade, or 1/4" inch per foot. The "soldering" can be done with flux and lead-free solder. Or you could use fittings like a Sharkbite if you decide that soldering is going to be too much.

Thanks so much for the quick response! Regarding the stud -- do we just cut out a section to accommodate the relocation of the pipes?
 

Terry

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Thanks so much for the quick response! Regarding the stud -- do we just cut out a section to accommodate the relocation of the pipes?

We drill through the studs.
For water I use 1-3/8"
For 1-1/2" pipe you need at least 2-1/8"
I also have 2-1/4" and 2-9/16" on the trucks.
 
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