Move Laundry Room

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Totalhack

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I want to add a laundry room. It is on the lower level.

I have a 1 1/2 vented drain coming from kitchen above.

Washing machine will be located 2 feet or so from the drain. Only concern is connecting it to existing drain.

I actually did the exact same installation on the other side (twin home) last fall. But I did it with a pseudo plumber (gas stations, not residential). He has been unavailable since the election (went nutso when Trump lost and unable to work or even be around). This side had a 2 inch drain from above. We put in a 2 inch San Tee and used a slip coupler to connect to existing drain. Then ran 2 inch over to washing machine drain. All seems good.

New Drain:
There is a 1 1/2 drain coming from kitchen. It goes into a 2 inch into the floor.

I am trying to figure out the best solution.

I could add 1 1/2 San Tee and reducer to bring the 2 inch washing machine drain to 1 1/2.

Or maybe it would be better (but more risky) to cut into the 2 inch pipe just above the clean out. On second thought this probably will not work as there is only 5 inches of pipe to work with.

Please give your thoughts : )
 

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wwhitney

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This side had a 2 inch drain from above. We put in a 2 inch San Tee and used a slip coupler to connect to existing drain. Then ran 2 inch over to washing machine drain. All seems good.
How did you vent the washer standpipe trap? Wet venting is not allowed between floors. I believe Minnesota uses the UPC, which does not allows AAVs. Unless you have a state or city amendment allowing them ?

The washer standpipe needs to be 2" with a 2" path all the way to the building drain, it can't downsize in the middle. And for the unamended UPC, it needs a 1-1/2" dry vent that runs to the roof. The dry vent can connect with an existing vent at a height that is at least 6" above the flood rim of all the fixtures involved. So if the washer is the only fixture on the lower level, and there's no vent stubbed down from above already, you'd need to run the vent up through the floor to tie into a vent on the story above.

Cheers, Wayne
 

Totalhack

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Not sure why there is so much going form 1 1/2 ro 2 inch and back and forth.
How did you vent the washer standpipe trap? Wet venting is not allowed between floors. I believe Minnesota uses the UPC, which does not allows AAVs. Unless you have a state or city amendment allowing them ?

The washer standpipe needs to be 2" with a 2" path all the way to the building drain, it can't downsize in the middle. And for the unamended UPC, it needs a 1-1/2" dry vent that runs to the roof. The dry vent can connect with an existing vent at a height that is at least 6" above the flood rim of all the fixtures involved. So if the washer is the only fixture on the lower level, and there's no vent stubbed down from above already, you'd need to run the vent up through the floor to tie into a vent on the story above.

Cheers, Wayne

I connected to the vent above. No issues with the WM drain side - just the best way to put the 2 inch San Tee on the drain.

The floor is 2 inches - so maybe best to add the San Tee to the 2 inch part of the drain. This is troublesome as I didn't want to come in that low with the WM drain.
 
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Totalhack

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My brain finally woke up (sort of).

I hope this will work.
 

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wwhitney

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I connected to the vent above.
What vent above? A dry vent carries no drainage. You have a separate pipe in the lower level that is a dry vent? Or you ran your new vent takeoff to the floor above where you found a dry vent?

As to the last picture, yes, you can cut out the reducer and some 1-1/2" pipe, and put a san-tee where the reducer was. You'll need (2) banded rubber couplings for 1-1/2" Schedule 40 to 1-1/2" Schedule 40 (e.g. Fernco 3000-150 or Mission CP-150) to get the last piece of 1-1/2" pipe reinstalled.

Cheers, Wayne
 

Totalhack

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What vent above? A dry vent carries no drainage. You have a separate pipe in the lower level that is a dry vent? Or you ran your new vent takeoff to the floor above where you found a dry vent?

As to the last picture, yes, you can cut out the reducer and some 1-1/2" pipe, and put a san-tee where the reducer was. You'll need (2) banded rubber couplings for 1-1/2" Schedule 40 to 1-1/2" Schedule 40 (e.g. Fernco 3000-150 or Mission CP-150) to get the last piece of 1-1/2" pipe reinstalled.

Cheers, Wayne


Yes, have dry vent from kitchen. Kitchen is right above and I had changed the sink a few weeks ago so had wall open a bit already.

And for some reason the water lines have stub outs on one end (maybe builder had planned to add something but didn't). So I can easily add a sharkbite or other fitting to PEX.
 
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