Missing concrete around waste pipe

[ShaneComeBackShane]

The first post is the longest

I am remodeling a bathroom installing 7/16 Bruce Hydropel flooring. I had a plumber come out and install a new flange spaced such that the bottom would be above the finished floor. I didn't have the floor down at the time due to the realities of scheduling and big projects and all that but the spacing is pretty good. What's not so great is the lack of concrete around the waste pipe. Three of my four 2 3/4" tapcons have anything to grab on to (pic attached) if I angle them. I suspect if I go straight down with them the concrete will shear like a melting iceberg. A few questions

1) Should I pack concrete around the waste pipe and if so do I need to worry about expansion? The wall behind the toilet is an exterior wall and the room does get pretty cold/hot seasonally (I'm in Memphis so nothing too extreme but definitely all four seasons). Or is driving the tapcons at an angle "more than enough"? Just "enough" makes me leary. I have some Quikrete vinyl concrete patcher handy if that is more than enough or can make a run for more appropriate materials.

I picked up a Superior Tools SuperRing but it doesn't appear to be compatible with my Kohler Memoirs toilet (pic attached). It shouldn't make contact with the edges, correct?

2) How important is it that the flange is level? In the videos I have watched almost no one checks for level. I suppose the wax ring takes care of some unevenness and as long as your Johnny bolts are straight up and the toilet doesn't rock that is more than enough?

12->6 is out 1/4"/ft and 3->9 is out 1/8"/ft c

3) According to spec the finished flooring requires a 1/2" expansion gap from the edge of the flange filled with 100% silicone. I've split some 1/2" set-rite spacers and put them under the flange (I wish I had known about them before the flange install). What kind of "support" does the PVC flange glued to pvc waste pipe need? The flange isn't actually carrying any weight, correct? Just forms that seal with the toilet, the bottom sides of the toilet make contact with the flooring and carry the load, correct? The flange just can't be too high or too low otherwise bad seal, correct? Just testing my understanding.

4) Should I just have the plumber come back, remove the flange, pack the concrete, install the spacer, install a new flange that is level? I can be a jerk like the rest of them but I prefer to be informed. Are these reasonable expectations for a flange replacement from a reputable company?

Thank you in advance!
Shane

 

[Reach4]

Should I pack concrete around the waste pipe and if so do I need to worry about expansion? The wall behind the toilet is an exterior wall and the room does get pretty cold/hot seasonally (I'm in Memphis so nothing too extreme but definitely all four seasons). Or is driving the tapcons at an angle "more than enough"? Just "enough" makes me leary. I have some Quikrete vinyl concrete patcher handy if that is more than enough or can make a run for more appropriate materials.

Mortar mix would be a good choice. I don't know about your patcher.

Wrap the pipe with some styrofoam sheet packing material before placing the mortar. They sell products for the purpose, but the right thin sheets should do the job. I am not a pro.

 

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[Reach4]

I picked up a Superior Tools SuperRing but it doesn't appear to be compatible with my Kohler Memoirs toilet (pic attached). It shouldn't make contact with the edges, correct?

You have that ring upside down with respect to the toilet. The higher area would be up in use. Keep that repair ring, or other repair ring, in mind, in case your all-pvc closet flange fails. It probably won't fail.

 

[ShaneComeBackShane]

Mortar mix would be a good choice. I don't know about your patcher.

Wrap the pipe with some styrofoam sheet packing material before placing the mortar. They sell products for the purpose, but the right thin sheets should do the job. I am not a pro.

Thanks for the response. I did some more research on the patcher and it is better suited for thinner, surface imperfection repairs. It looks like quick setting cement concrete is for deeper "structural" repairs and may be better suited. I will get some insulation but given I only have 1/2” gap below the flange to work not sure how much I'll be able to get in there. Should I chisel out a wider area of concrete to be able to get in there better? Or do I just need enough for some spansion where I am doing the patch? Do you think the tapcons will grip into the new concrete or just cause it to fracture from the bonded edge below the flange?

Thanks!

 

[ShaneComeBackShane]

You have that ring upside down with respect to the toilet. The higher area would be up in use. Keep that repair ring, or other repair ring, in mind, in case your all-pvc closet flange fails. It probably won't fail.

The lighting and shadows may be playing games. This is how I planned on orienting it (pic attached) which I think is correct...the extended tabs should be below the top of the flange, correct? Either way they make contact with the toilet which could interfere with seating it correctly...if I am correctly understanding how this all works.

 

[Reach4]

The lighting and shadows may be playing games. This is how I planned on orienting it (pic attached) which I think is correct...the extended tabs should be below the top of the flange, correct?

Lay a straight edge across the base of the toilet. Does that clear the repair ring?

 

[ShaneComeBackShane]

Lay a straight edge across the base of the toilet. Does that clear the repair ring?

These back two do not. I could probably grind them down but not sure what other problems that may create.