Minimum distance between two 90s

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bwhamilton

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Is there a minimum distance between two 90s on a toilet line?

The current toilet is setup 12" from either wall, which I don't think was right even in 1950 when it was built. 4" cast iron dropping 12" into a 90 right into the main stack. No vent due to being so close to the main stack.

Obviously it needs to move over, but only have a 2x10 joist bay to move it over.

Is it legal to drop 90 right off the flange as in most new work, go 8" horizontally before another 90? Are there any minimum distance concerns where a long sweep would be better?

What if it went 90 - 8" horizontally - 90 - 6" vertically before another 90 into the main stack? Seems like way too many 90s. I believe I could move the toilet 4-5 over using 45s back to back, but 90s feel a bit less tight.

Thanks!
 

John Gayewski

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I picture it drawing would be nice. But it sounds like your fine,other than it being too close to the wall.
 

bwhamilton

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Thanks for the reply!

Terrible and rough diagram below. I know 4" would allow me to go outside the flange, but 3" gives me a bit more room to play with due to smaller fitting size. Transition from the 4" Cast Iron to PVC via shielded Fernco Proflex, and 4-3" bushing.

This would put the flange ~2 feet from the side wall, and remain ~12.5" from the rear wall.


current-proposed plumbing.JPG
 

wwhitney

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Proflex reducing couplings are available, i.e. 3000-43 to go from 4" cast iron to 3" plastic.

Can you put the Proflex coupling on the horizontal cast iron, and then just use a more conventional arrangement? Or is there some obstruction? In the latter case, can you you get around the obstruction using two 45s instead of a closet bend, one just below the closet flange or a 45 degree flange?

Cheers, Wayne
 

Jeff H Young

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proposed looks a bit sloppy but for a repair your call. should be ok .
I'd rather cut the stack put a wye in and 45 at the right level much cleaner better job. but I'm willing to bet your proposed could serve well . depending on condition of pipe . if you want a few years or 30 , perhaps gettr done now and repipe proper later?
 

bwhamilton

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Proflex reducing couplings are available, i.e. 3000-43 to go from 4" cast iron to 3" plastic.

Can you put the Proflex coupling on the horizontal cast iron, and then just use a more conventional arrangement? Or is there some obstruction? In the latter case, can you you get around the obstruction using two 45s instead of a closet bend, one just below the closet flange or a 45 degree flange?

Cheers, Wayne


Thank you Wayne! They do make reducers, but manage to be out of stock in every location I've checked that doesn't charge $100 for one (not kidding, there's actually a listing online at that price). Fergusson, supply house, everyone is out of the reducer versions. Parts are tough to find out here right now in NJ since the flooding last week.

I'd love to put it on the horizontal, and that's my primary plan, but I'm concerned there's not going to end up being enough room due to the location and how tightly they fit it in the corner. I'd much rather use two 45s, but this is a last resort if all else fails and the juice isn't worth the squeeze.


proposed looks a bit sloppy but for a repair your call. should be ok .
I'd rather cut the stack put a wye in and 45 at the right level much cleaner better job. but I'm willing to bet your proposed could serve well . depending on condition of pipe . if you want a few years or 30 , perhaps gettr done now and repipe proper later?

Definitely looking to gettr done now and repipe down the line when everything has to be replaced. This is the most complicated stack I've really ever seen in such tight proximity, so I'd rather edit as minimally as possible until the entire mess gets replaced. The cast iron is in great shape AFAIK, so who knows when that will be a need versus a want.
 

Reach4

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Looking at your proposed, I was wondering if two 45s would fit your space rather than two 90s. It makes for smoother sailing. Not as elegant as Jeff's proposal in #5, but still more elegant than your proposed drawing.

And then I would consider using an outside compression closet flange rather than glue. You have to get glue right the first time, and compression can be removed for flooring change some day or for other reasons.

Also, if using the 90s, consider a 4x3 closet bend rather than a 3 inch bend. That accepts 4 inch closet flanges and outputs to a 3 inch soil pipe.

There are also some good 45-degree closet flanges, although I think they would take considerably more skill to put in place.
 
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