Meyers Submersible Pump Control Box

[Hahndo1980]

I could use some assistance in trying to find a compatible control box for my old Meyers pump. I am new to the well pump/pressure tank world, my thermal overload fuse has tripped out a couple of times and has thrown some sparks (SCARY). I did notice some corrosion on the thermal fuse so I cleaned all of the connections and have not had it overload since. I am gathering that the pressure tank and pump are really old but seem to work as they should. Any thoughts or ideas would be helpful.

 

[Reach4]

How much space is there between that brown phenolic board and the back of the steel box? Is there enough room for a start capacitor?

I am wondering if the old 3-wire pump got replaced with a 2-wire pump, the control box was gutted, and the box just remained as an electrical connections box.

When the pump runs, how much current do you read with a clamp-around ammeter around the black or white wire.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Hahndo1980]

How much space is there between that brown phenolic board and the back of the steel box? Is there enough room for a start capacitor?

I am wondering if the old 3-wire pump got replaced with a 2-wire pump, the control box was gutted, and the box just remained as an electrical connections box.

When the pump runs, how much current do you read with a clamp-around ammeter around the black or white wire.

I would say there is 3 inches. It looks like there is already a start capacitor and would I be able to use a multimeter?

 

[Reach4]

I would say there is 3 inches. It looks like there is already a start capacitor and would I be able to use a multimeter?

OK.. That is enough space.

Start capacitors go bad with time. Guaranteed.

There is a way to test those capacitors with a multimeter. It is more graphic with a needle-type meter. Those are non-polarized electrolytics (which internally is two polarized electrolytics in series). The test of a good capacitor shows the resistance kick toward zero initially when the probes are applied, and then drift to near infinity. Then reverse the leads, and this time you get a bigger kick, followed by drifting to near infinity.

If the start cap is bad, the motor won't start. The overcurrent breaker will blow. If the capacitor is failing, the motor may start sometimes.

 

[Hahndo1980]

OK.. That is enough space.

Start capacitors go bad with time. Guaranteed.

There is a way to test those capacitors with a multimeter. It is more graphic with a needle-type meter. Those are non-polarized electrolytics (which internally is two polarized electrolytics in series). The test of a good capacitor shows the resistance kick toward zero initially when the probes are applied, and then drift to near infinity. Then reverse the leads, and this time you get a bigger kick, followed by drifting to near infinity.

If the start cap is bad, the motor won't start. The overcurrent breaker will blow. If the capacitor is failing, the motor may start sometimes.

OK. I will and see if I can get some information off from the capacitor when I go back to the cabin in a couple of weeks. Thanks for your help and I will let you know what I find out.

 

[Reach4]

While you are in there, take dimensions on the capacitor for purposes of identifying a replacement. You want something that will fit.

The start capacitor may be 250-300 MFD. https://www.supplyhouse.com/sh/control/search/~SEARCH_STRING=start capacitor