Method of removing lead joint from cast iron hub

Users who are viewing this thread

Al S

Engineer
Messages
61
Reaction score
2
Points
8
Location
The land of pain - NY
Hello,
I have a 1955 cast iron hub with a 2 in galvanized pipe in what looks like 3 inch cast iron hub with a lead joint. The hub and pipe are vertical and I am seeking advice as to removing the lead that surrounds the pipe.

I've seen examples of drilling out the joint with dozens of holes using a 1/4 drill. Other examples involved heating the joint with map gas. My concern is whether there is a way to remove the joint without the the packing or hunks of lead falling into the cast iron pipe, given that the cast iron is vertical.

Thank you,

Al
 
Last edited:

Sylvan

Still learning
Messages
2,756
Reaction score
689
Points
113
Location
New York
A decent plumbing supply may have a chisel we use to remove lead from a hub.

The chisel end is offset approximately 45 deg.

As you use a small ballpein hammer the end of the chisel as it bores though the lead and lifts it out
 

Al S

Engineer
Messages
61
Reaction score
2
Points
8
Location
The land of pain - NY
If there is a clean out below on that pipe you could stuff a rag down the pipe to where you can reach in the clean out and pull the debris out. Or use a wet vac while you drill and pry out the lead and okum.
Actually there is a clean out port. That might be helpful should a big chunk of okum drop down when lifting out the galvanized pipe, potentially causing a clog downstream. Thank you very much
 

Modulerics

Member
Messages
31
Reaction score
1
Points
8
Location
New Jersey
I had to do this the other day on 4 inch. I found drilling holes and prying out w a flat head to work decent. I don't want to recommend it but I also used a chisel tip on a hammer drill (Hilti) to help loosen it up. Once I'd got about 3/4 maybe a lil less of the lead cleaned out I was able to free the ferrule. I also used an old Sawzall blade to scrape out the oakum to free up space.
 

Sylvan

Still learning
Messages
2,756
Reaction score
689
Points
113
Location
New York
Actually there is a clean out port. That might be helpful should a big chunk of okum drop down when lifting out the galvanized pipe, potentially causing a clog downstream. Thank you very much
If the joint was properly made there is no way to remove oakum from the bottom

For example when I had to use a galvanized pipe in a hub I would take a galvanized coupling and cut it in half to take up the area inside the hub
 

Al S

Engineer
Messages
61
Reaction score
2
Points
8
Location
The land of pain - NY
If the joint was properly made there is no way to remove oakum from the bottom
Hi. Can you explain why the oakum is not able to be removed? Isn't oakum just oiled hemp - a fibrous material? I know it packed in tight to seal the lead being poured. Not sure why it cannot be removed. This post is a first that claims this from my searches.
 

Terry

The Plumbing Wizard
Staff member
Messages
29,942
Reaction score
3,458
Points
113
Location
Bothell, Washington
Website
terrylove.com
Hi. Can you explain why the oakum is not able to be removed? Isn't oakum just oiled hemp - a fibrous material? I know it packed in tight to seal the lead being poured. Not sure why it cannot be removed. This post is a first that claims this from my searches.
Once the lead and the pipe has been removed, the oakum will be laying at the bottom of the hub, yes, it can be lifted out and tossed.
Options are to pour a new joint with new oakum, or use a rubber donut which sets in the hub and the pipe gets pushed into it.

index.php


index.php
 

DIYorBust

Active Member
Messages
745
Reaction score
94
Points
28
Location
Long Island, New York
I'm not sure exactly what you are trying to do, but could you cut the galvanized clean with a steel tubing cutter and then attach a no-hub coupling? That would be so much easier.
 

Terry

The Plumbing Wizard
Staff member
Messages
29,942
Reaction score
3,458
Points
113
Location
Bothell, Washington
Website
terrylove.com
I'm not sure exactly what you are trying to do, but could you cut the galvanized clean with a steel tubing cutter and then attach a no-hub coupling? That would be so much easier.
Yes, you can cut the 1.5" and couple it, but when I have a chance to upgrade to a 2" pipe, I do it every chance I get.
For instance, you can have one lav on 1.5" but change that to 2" and now you can have two. It's also better for a washer, which we currently do in 2" anyway. It's no longer the '60's.
 

DIYorBust

Active Member
Messages
745
Reaction score
94
Points
28
Location
Long Island, New York
Yes, you can cut the 1.5" and couple it, but when I have a chance to upgrade to a 2" pipe, I do it every chance I get.
For instance, you can have one lav on 1.5" but change that to 2" and now you can have two. It's also better for a washer, which we currently do in 2" anyway. It's no longer the '60's.
No disagreement there, but the OP says he has 2" galvanized:

Hello,
I have a 1955 cast iron hub with a 2 in galvanized pipe in what looks like 3 inch cast iron hub with a lead joint. The hub and pipe are vertical and I am seeking advice as to removing the lead that surrounds the pipe.

I've seen examples of drilling out the joint with dozens of holes using a 1/4 drill. Other examples involved heating the joint with map gas. My concern is whether there is a way to remove the joint without the the packing or hunks of lead falling into the cast iron pipe, given that the cast iron is vertical.

Thank you,

Al
Technically, it is the '20s, so lead and oakum hub may be coming back in. Stranger things have happened in the last five years.

Edit: well I guess he could be talking about the O.D. of the pipe since it does seem like an unusual situation to have a 2" galvanized tub drain, but I'm not really sure.
 
Last edited:

Terry

The Plumbing Wizard
Staff member
Messages
29,942
Reaction score
3,458
Points
113
Location
Bothell, Washington
Website
terrylove.com
He's talking about the OD of the pipe. I have never seen a 2" galvanized pipe leaded into a cast hub fitting. And he is right, it is 2" measured to the outside. We call them 1.5" ID pipes.
I use a 2-1/8 drill bit for that when drilling studs in a wall. 2-9/16" for a 2" pipe.
 

DIYorBust

Active Member
Messages
745
Reaction score
94
Points
28
Location
Long Island, New York
Yes, that makes more sense. And I'm guessing they didn't make a hub type 1.5" CI pipe, so under 2 inches they went to threaded galvanized at the time. Still through, if it's just a tub drain, and you're DIY, do you really want to chip out all that lead for a slightly faster draining tub? Then again, I don't know what he's doing, maybe the drain will serve something else.
 

Al S

Engineer
Messages
61
Reaction score
2
Points
8
Location
The land of pain - NY
He's talking about the OD of the pipe. I have never seen a 2" galvanized pipe leaded into a cast hub fitting. And he is right, it is 2" measured to the outside. We call them 1.5" ID pipes.
I use a 2-1/8 drill bit for that when drilling studs in a wall. 2-9/16" for a 2" pipe.
In my application, the galvanized pipe measure very close to 1.9" OD. The best I can see from the hub ID is a bit over 3"
 

Al S

Engineer
Messages
61
Reaction score
2
Points
8
Location
The land of pain - NY
Once the lead and the pipe has been removed, the oakum will be laying at the bottom of the hub, yes, it can be lifted out and tossed.
Options are to pour a new joint with new oakum, or use a rubber donut which sets in the hub and the pipe gets pushed into it.
galv-pipe-resized.jpg
 

DIYorBust

Active Member
Messages
745
Reaction score
94
Points
28
Location
Long Island, New York
2 Inch would be better on a kitchen sink for sure, but. But is it worth the de-leading job might be a tough call. If you break that cast iron fitting trying to do it, you are in for a rough ride.
 

Tuttles Revenge

In the Trades
Messages
4,132
Reaction score
1,410
Points
113
That looks like just about the easiest possible scenario for removing lead from around a steel pipe. Have a few 1/4" metal drill bits on hand. Absolutely replace it with 2" and a rubber fernco donut.



That might be helpful should a big chunk of okum drop down when lifting out the galvanized pipe, potentially causing a clog downstream.

If the joint was properly made there is no way to remove oakum from the bottom
Hi. Can you explain why the oakum is not able to be removed? Isn't oakum just oiled hemp - a fibrous material? I know it packed in tight to seal the lead being poured. Not sure why it cannot be removed. This post is a first that claims this from my searches.

Just a misinterpretation.
 
Top
Hey, wait a minute.

This is awkward, but...

It looks like you're using an ad blocker. We get it, but (1) terrylove.com can't live without ads, and (2) ad blockers can cause issues with videos and comments. If you'd like to support the site, please allow ads.

If any particular ad is your REASON for blocking ads, please let us know. We might be able to do something about it. Thanks.
I've Disabled AdBlock    No Thanks