"Method of Attack" advice please??

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ChuckGM

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Toilet flange is 1" closer to wall (11") than desired. Already have the new toilet (not returnable) - standard 12". House is 1952 - cast iron. I can't do the "alcove" behind the tank deal because of stack and parallel vent location. The I.D. of my cast iron below the toilet is 3 1/2" -- My "research" seems to indicate that a 3.5" offset press-in flange is not a thing...? - that correct? So, I'm left with trying to do it "right." (and please, jump in anywhere you like if you have other advice/possibilities!) -- See attached pictures: I assume my first step is to sawzall off the flange pipe below the floor. Then I would drill and dig out (what I assume (?) will be) the lead in the hub on the stack. (Is heat used here to soften it up? or is that a no-no due to lead fumes?) Then replumb it all with a fermco fitting and PVC? --- Thanks in advance for your thoughts!

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Terry

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Most toilet trapways are 2", dropping into a 3" or 4" drain.
You can move the bolts further away from the wall, say at 11-1/2" and have the tank just meet up with the wall.

Should take you five minutes to make the change if the slots in the cast flange allow for that change.
If not, sometimes a repair flange over the cast flange to hold the closet bolts.

Most 12" rough toilets will have between 1/2" and 3/4" behind the tank.
The older TOTO Drake with the ST743 tanks had 1-1/8" behind the tanks. I loved that about them.
 

ChuckGM

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Most toilet trapways are 2", dropping into a 3" or 4" drain.
You can move the bolts further away from the wall, say at 11-1/2" and have the tank just meet up with the wall.

Should take you five minutes to make the change if the slots in the cast flange allow for that change.
If not, sometimes a repair flange over the cast flange to hold the closet bolts.

Most 12" rough toilets will have between 1/2" and 3/4" behind the tank.
The older TOTO Drake with the ST743 tanks had 1-1/8" behind the tanks. I loved that about them.
Hmmmm - Thank you. I will look into that. The existing flange bolt area on one side is already broken so I will look for repair flange. Should it be connected to existing flange or just to the floor? - and I'm assuming that the type of wax ring with a plastic "funnel" attached might be best?
 

Terry

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You just need something to hold the bolts.
Standard wax rings are fine if the flange is on the tile flooring. You can also use wax with horns.

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ChuckGM

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You just need something to hold the bolts.
Standard wax rings are fine if the flange is on the tile flooring. You can also use wax with horns.

red-ring-repair-love-2.jpg
- just wanted to Thank you again. This saved me a LOT of heartburn! Yours is one of the best DIY sites out there!
 
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