Metal Toilet Flange

[Winger27]

New to the forums. I, well we, decided to redo our bathroom. We are in the demo stage when we ran across this problem. There was a rusted out metal toilet flange so I knew I needed to replace it. It was leaded in, so I removed it. Now the problem is that it is an elbow. I was going to get an expandable flange and insert it, but it seems to be too close to the bend to have any depth. There is also a 'bump' on the inside so the new flange might not go over. The top of the pipe is about an 1 1/4 above the floor already if you add the thickness of the new flange it will be to high. Am I out of luck and need to have a plumber relead a new flange? Thanks

 

[Reach4]

Use a magnet to distinguish whether that is lead or cast iron.

Measure and post the OD and ID.

Figure out how high the existing fitting is with respect to where the top of the finished floor is going to be.

This info will help those who may have a suggestion to give a better suggestion. If the inside of the pipe can be made smooth enough, I was wondering if a Fernco no-waxseal http://www.fernco.com/plumbing/wax-free-toilet-seal could connect the toilet to the pipe, while a repair ring would be used to hold the bolts holding down the toilet.

 

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[Terry]

That is a cast iron bend there.

 

[Winger27]

It is cast iron. It seems to measure 4" id and 4 1/2 od. The height I need is 1 5/32 (13/32 tile, 1/2 underlayment, 1/4 backerboard). It measures 1 1/2 on the high and 1 on the low side from subfloor. It does not lay level. The inside is pretty rough.

 

[Smooky]

You could use a compression flange

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Sioux-Chief-4-in-Cast-Iron-Toilet-Flange-890-I42/202313121

 

[Winger27]

That's a good idea. I was also looking at something like this. Which type would be better?. How good will it seal?

Oatey 42256 165 TC Cast Iron Flange with Test Cap,

http://www.oatey.com/products/drains-and-closet-flanges/closet-flanges/cast-iron-closet-flange

 

[Reach4]

Either way, it looks like you would be cutting/grinding down that cast iron, and probably removing some wood around the cast iron to clear that flange.

How is the tilt going to affect winger27?

 

[Winger27]

Should I finish the floor then tackle the flange?. That way I'll be sure of the height and cut it level.

 

[Reach4]

I would not think so. The cast iron will need to be cut below floor level to accommodate the flanges under discussion.

But I am no pro; I have never installed a closet flange.

While checking options, I think it is worth checking something else: what is the rough-in distance for that pipe. That is the distance from the finished wall (not counting baseboard) to the center of the pipe? To measure the distance to the center it is often better to measure the distances to the inside and outside edges, and average them.

If you come up with 13 inches, for example, that might motivate you enough for a more difficult solution that changes the rough-in to maybe 11.75.

If you are at 12, I am still thinking I would grind/cut the pipe down to maybe 3/16 above the finished floor. Put a repair ring in place. Consider filling in the gap... I don't know. Put in the repair ring carefully centered around your pipe on the finished floor, and letting the ground edge contact the wax ring directly.

 

[Winger27]

It does measure 12 1/2 from stud. I am not familiar with the install of the replacement flanges. So if I slide it over I can position it to the right height then cut off the excess?