Metal Flange with PVC Extension Kit

[Gerryfd]

New to this forum and glad I found it. Purchased home in 1994 and replaced the Briggs Toilet with a Kohler 1.6 in 1997 because of water leaks around the toilet onto the linoleum floor. I replaced it myself but this year saw more leaks noticeable under the linoleum. I removed the toilet and found that the 1/2 particle board that was installed above the subfloor was wet approximately 3' in diameter in front of the toilet and sides, about 8-10" behind the toilet I noticed the flange was screwed to the sub floor below the particle board with deck screws, 6 each and set flushed with the subfloor. The bathroom floor is 5' x 6' and after calling a couple of contractors both recommended they would cut the wet section out and replace it. For three days I researched many sites finding this one after receiving one bid asking for$2008 to replace the damage wood and also tile my floor and cabinet. After that bid, I decided I could do this myself. I removed the vanity cabinet, entire particle board and staples leaving just the tub. I went under my house and expected under the sub floor but found no dry rot. Presently, I'm running a heater in the bathroom to dry the subfloor. My flange is metal and appears cemented with epoxy approximately 1-to 1-1/2" to the Black ABS waste pipe. I purchased 1/2' cement Hardi backer boards to replace the 1/2" particle board since the wife and I decided to tile the floor ourselves. I read this forum about flange heights and purchased a Oatey Closet Flange Spacer Kit from Lowes which comes with 2 gaskets, one 1/2' Spacer, the bolts and 2 plastic Shims. I bought this kit to install over my metal flange to compensate for the needed height to hopefully get the flange flushed with the backer board once installed. I expect maybe 1/8' height difference above the finished floor after installation. I looked at other plastic spacers at Home Depot but had bought this kit earlier. Question: Can I safely install this white plastic spacer kit to the metal flange? Should I not worry about the plastic shims and just use Silcone sealant? Is the kit an overkill? I will purchase stainless steel wood screws to secure the original flange back to the subfloor and most likely a newer toilet. Any help and advice is most welcome. The costly repairs and bids by contractors are ridiculous and I'm now going to DIY!!

 

[jay_wat]

use brass screws,,and dont use the spacer kit,,,, install a wax ring with out the gasket over the toilet flange,,then use a large thick wax ring with gasket over that,,then install the toilet.

fyi,, youve done this before,,and had a leak,,you can go ahead and do the flooring and such,,id reccomend getting a plumber to install the toilet,, IMO.

Good luck!

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Terry]

Also make sure that the bowl is tight to the floor before you tighten the bolts.
If it needs shimming, do that first.
A bowl that rocks, will break the wax seal.

 

[Jadnashua]

Before you tile, you need to ensure that the joists and subfloor meet the minimum specs. After tearing up the particle board, with all fo the fasteners, the original ply subfloor is no longer pristine. Plus, it is not uncommon for the joist structure to not meet the specs for tile. There is no advantage to using 1/2" cbu verses 1/4" stuff as it doesn't add any structural stiffness to the floor. If you want the floor to be closer to the original, 1/4" and the tile would work if the floor is strong enough, or, if it needs beefing up (subfloor, not joists), then at least 3/8" ply with a decoupling membrane (my choice would be DItra from www.schluter.com) would have you back at the 1/2" thickness and a stronger floor. Check on www.johnbridge.com for help on tiling and getting your floor up to snuff for tile.

 

[Gerryfd]

Thanks for the information about joists and subfloor. When I checked under my house I saw the subfloor was bolted to the stud frame with what appeared approximately 1" wide wood support strips that widen the standard 2" support to 4". Being a DIY, I'm not sure if that's enough support to code for tile but appears to be. When I replaced the toilet in 1997, I used the wax ring that came with the toilet and everything was fine for 13 years until now. I figured over time the wax ring finally needed replacing. Since we decided to tile the floor now and remodel, I had decided purchasing the 1/2" Hardi backer board was a better choice for replacing 1/2 particle board. I will look at 1/4" options and do so more research. I'll wait for other opinions about the questions I asked before deciding all my options and appreciate the replies.