Metal cover for PEX rough in ..is there any way to avoid screwing the cover through the tiles?

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Mini Me

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Here is a picture of what I am dealing with
I am not crazy about having to drill next to the existing hole there
Besides that there is a long way to the cinder blocks, I need to go through the tile+thinset, drywall and expanded polystyrene insulation so I will have little control on how an anchor will attach to the wall and I would need long and thin screws
Is there any other way to install this ?
The PEX will take a sharkbite at the end

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Tuttles Revenge

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What is the object that you need to attach to the wall? The center sleeve? Is its purpose to hold the escutcheon? If that were the case, I'd just use an adhesive.. it likely isnt going to be used as a jungle gym.
 

Mini Me

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That cover and the pipe will protect the PEX pipe you see in the picture
 

wwhitney

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Plastic anchors into just the tile and drywall? Predrill the tile before thin setting it to the wall (if you can lay it out and place it accurately enough).

Cheers, Wayne
 

Mini Me

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As you ca see the tile is already on the wall so that is not going to work
Plus no matter where the tile is those holes will be too close to the pipe hole and the tile might crack
 

Reach4

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What is the deal with the pex? Is it rigidly held on the other side of the wall, or can you push and pull that pex?
 

Mini Me

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there is a 90 elbow behind the drywall
I want to prevent vertical jiggling
 

Tuttles Revenge

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There is a thing called edge margin for drilling holes next to other holes in tile and stone. If it absolutely has to be drilled. Find out what the edge margin is for that particular tile and determine if its feasible. If it is, use an appropriate bit, keep it cool and slow. We do these all the time with hydrorails.
 

Mini Me

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Finishing valve is a smart idea but the Ove Smart Toilet comes with its own specific valve
 

Mini Me

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There is a thing called edge margin for drilling holes next to other holes in tile and stone. If it absolutely has to be drilled. Find out what the edge margin is for that particular tile and determine if its feasible. If it is, use an appropriate bit, keep it cool and slow. We do these all the time with hydrorails.
I would preffer not to drill if that is an option ... hence my question here. So is there an alternative to drilling?
 

Reach4

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Finishing valve is a smart idea but the Ove Smart Toilet comes with its own specific valve
Got me confused there, but that's OK.
I would preffer not to drill if that is an option ... hence my question here. So is there an alternative to drilling?
Did you see the mention of adhesive in post #2?
 

Mini Me

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Yes I did. I am wondering what adhesive would that be? PL Construction? I still want some degree of protection there otherwise I am sure I could use silicon and it will stick but it would be easy to remove
The other problem is that there seems to be too much hardware at the end of that pipe
Here is what is looks like or it will look like (the manual is here )

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I am planning to use this PEX Shark Bite coupling
https://www.rona.ca/en/product/aqua...movable-1-2-in-x-1-2-in-dia-9492-603-01735329

I am wondering if there is a female fitting that would allow me to eliminate the N-G NPT adapter

Edit: I think I need this one
https://www.homedepot.ca/product/sharkbite-connector-1-2-in-x-1-2-in-fnpt/1000792029
 
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Tuttles Revenge

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As far as adhesive, since its only function is to hold that sleeve in place with a tube that won't move on its own. Almost anything will work. But it would be best to pair the adhesive to the surfaces you're adhering. If that is a super smooth tile and the sleeve is Metal/plastic then X adhesive will work. But likely anything would. Especially if some was Schooched into the hole to fill the void.

I am wondering if there is a female fitting that would allow me to eliminate the N-G NPT adapter

The NG adapter probably has proprietary threads. The fact that they show using tape for sealing indicates its a tapered thread, but obviously not NPT.

PS. Their diagram of installing the tape is incorrect. that is backwards. it will unravel while threading the valve.

PPS. The stub out should have been a brass nipple. Every Toto Neorest or Kohler Veil bidet toilet I've ever installed we've used that because the stop valves are threaded. Makes this way way easier and cleaner install.
 

Mini Me

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I wanted to make the stub copper like all the others but I could not fit that in that space. I have under 1" insulation in that area behind the drywall
That N-G Adapter is probably standard it fits the fitting in the last link in my previous post
so that was not an option. Probably this could have been a solution

shark-drop-ear.jpg
 

hj

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IF that is for a diverter spout, you have already screwed up, because you should NOT use PEX, espececially with an elbow behind the wall, for the drop from the valve.
 
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