Mansfield Anti-Siphon Wall Hydrant Leaking in Wall

[bneedles]

I have a Mansfield anti-siphon wall hydrant hooked up outside. When the faucet is turned on, water drips behind the wall. The more I turn the faucet, the heavier the leak. I removed some siding from my house to take a closer look and noticed that the water drips down not only behind the siding, but behind the plywood as well. The plywood isn't water damaged but the insulation behind that is wet. Will the whole faucet need to be replaced, or will I just need to replace the washers and stem? Any help would be appreciated!

 

[Jadnashua]

If the faucet or the line to it froze over the winter and split (or a fitting), it could exhibit those symptoms. IF that is the case, it would need to be replaced. If it's also a frost-free valve, and you left a hose on it, or it wasn't installed with the proper slope so it could drain, it probably froze and split.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[bneedles]

Thanks for the quick response. It was foolishly left with a hose on it all winter. The faucet only leaks when turned on (not sure if that makes a difference). I'm assuming it needs to be replaced and I'm guessing that's a job for an experienced plumber rather than a quick DIY fix?

 

[Jadnashua]

Sounds like it's a frost-free silcock, and the vast majority of them will not drain if a hose is left on them. There are a few that can drain, and thus are not subject to the same problems. Woodford makes some nice ones that can drain even if you leave a hose on it.

It really depends on how the thing was installed: they typically come either as a solder on, or a screw on. If it is a screw on, it might be fairly easy to replace. But, to prevent problems, you need to have the area in the wall/ceiling/whatever where that connection is to be made open so you can support the threaded portion of the supply pipe, or you can damage things either taking it off or installing the new one. Plus, you need to find out the length of the valve used to pick up the proper replacement. If it is soldered on, you need access to unsolder the existing one and soldering on the new one. It all depends on your skill levels, the tools you have, and your risk aversion levels. Once you have access to the connection point, it could literally be a 10-minute job if all you have to do is unscrew the old one and screw in a new one. Or, if the length is slightly different, you may need to lengthen or shorten the supply pipe connection slightly.

 

[Terry]

You can't access the faucet through the siding.
Those tend to be 6" to 8" long with the actual shutoff in the warm part of the home. Typically in a wall. A normal repair means measuring to locate that wall, and how high off the floor. A hole gets cut in the drywall to access the back end of the hosebib. I recommend a plastic access panely for the next time you forget to remove the hose. Just saying.

 

[bneedles]

Thanks for the help. There's a closet on the opposite side of the faucet. Do you suggest I go in from the closet rather than the outside wall?

 

[Reach4]

In the ideal case, the sillcock will be screwed into a drop-ear fitting that is securely mounted. Then everything can be done outside.

You might check with neighbors whose houses were built by the same builder at about the same time. One may know the construction, or maybe even have an installation visible from inside.

 

[bneedles]

Thanks guys. I really appreciate all the help!