Main water line question (Size and type)

Discussion in 'Plumbing Forum, Professional & DIY Advice' started by Tony Shubert, Jan 17, 2021.

  1. Tony Shubert

    Tony Shubert New Member

    Joined:
    Jan 17, 2021
    Location:
    Lake Martin, Alabama
    Hello All,

    I am about to break ground in a home in central Alabama. The home is about 850 feet from the city water line. The home is probably about 40-50 foot above the city water line in elevation. While the trench was open I was thinking about installing a 1.5" and 2" PVC pipe for redundancy and just in case the 1.5 inch isn't enough. I am maybe a little concern about the amount of primer and clement that will be in the pipe as for as a health concern. I think copper is too expensive. Does anyone have any recommendations on the sizing and type of pipe I should use. It is a three bedroom house with only my wife and I. Thanks in advance for any help.
     
  2. wwhitney

    wwhitney Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Mar 17, 2019
    Location:
    Berkeley, CA
    Do you know the available pressure at the city water line? With 50 ft of elevation rise, you'd lose 22 psi just from elevation rise.

    Cheers, Wayne
     
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  4. Reach4

    Reach4 Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Sep 25, 2013
    Location:
    IL
    There are pressure drop calculators. http://www.pressure-drop.com/Online-Calculator/ is more complex than most.

    Rather than put in 1.5 and 2 inch both, so that you can start with 1.5, why not put in just 2 inch? I am not saying 1.5 is not adequate. Check the pressure drops. Altitude pressure drop is easy, and add it to the other drops. For a house, I would shoot for 5 psi max drop due to flow at 10 gpm.

    I would use SIDR pipe, with a yard hydrant or two along the way if practical. Not only could that be a source of water, it lets you take pressure readings for troubleshooting.

    https://www.astm.org/Standards/D2239.htm says the D2239 spec is "Standard Specification for Polyethylene (PE) Plastic Pipe (SIDR-PR) Based on Controlled Inside Diameter". http://www.carlonsales.com/techinfo/faqs/FAQ-HDPE.pdf says "SIDR stands for Standard Inside Diameter Ratio, which is the inside diameter divided by the wall thickness."
    In practice, SIDR means that the ID is uniform for different pressure ratings or pipe thickness, so the same barbs fit.

    https://www.huduser.gov/portal/publications/pex_design_guide.pdf page 78 of 128 says
    Tubing should be laid with sufficient slack (snaking) to accommodate any contraction due to cooling prior to backfilling. Tubing will expand or contract approximately 1 inch in length for each 10°F change in tubing temperature for each 100 feet of tubing.
    While they are talking about pex, that would apply to SIDR pipe too.

    https://www.charlottepipe.com/Documents/PL_Tech_Man/ExpansionandContraction.pdf is about thermal effects on pvc, which is another possible lower-cost pipe.

    Menards doesn't cover your state, but this will give you an idea of what is available, and what a good price is. This search is sorted by most-expensive first, to save you the time of looking thru the short small-diameter entries.
    Search Results for "sidr" at Menards®
     
    Last edited: Jan 17, 2021
  5. Jeff H Young

    Jeff H Young In the Trades

    Joined:
    Feb 27, 2020
    Location:
    92346
    I think the pe will be cheaper and if your concerned with health effects of pvc heres a cheap option . Id be supprised if there are no accusations against PE as its plastic or comes from oil . I dont have a particular preferance and have ran PE only a few times I like not having a joint every 20 ft. I sometimes like PVC but not 40 or 50 extra joints
     
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