Low water pressure through the water softener

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TERRY SIMPSON

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I have a softener with the Clack WS1 control valve on it. The brine cycle stopped working; wouldn't draw water from the brine tank anymore so I just replaced the spacer stack with a new one. It took care of the brine issue and works in all cycles now but since doing that, my water pressure is low when going through the softener. For example, if I turn on a kitchen faucet then turn anything else on or flush a toilet, the water pressure is half or maybe less. If I put the system in bypass the water pressure is fine. I removed the bypass valve and checked it and it is clear and appears to have no issues.

Hoping someone has an idea of what the issue could be.
 

Bannerman

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That is a common indication the resin needs to be replaced.

This occurs most often with municipal water as the added chlorine or chloramine will over time, cause the resin to degrade where it will become mushy and swell within the tank.

Chlorine will negatively impact the lifespan of any resin but resin with 10% cross-linking will better tolerate continuous chlorine exposure compared to standard 8% cross-link resin. Many big box store and softeners sold online are equipped with resin that has less than 8% cross-linking. With lower tolerance against chlorine, the resin may fail after only a few years and sometimes only months.

Suggest rebedding with the appropriate quantity of 10% cross-link resin and new bedding gravel. The best option would be to rebed with either 8% or 10% resin, and utilize a backwashing carbon filtration system to remove the chlorine prior to the softener.

Depending on whether your municipality uses chlorine or chloramine will determine if regular GAC (granular activated carbon) or premium Catalytic Carbon will be needed. Carbon of either type will also remove other contaminants including disinfection byproducts and many other chemicals.
 
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TERRY SIMPSON

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That is a common indication the resin needs to be replaced.

This occurs most often with municipal water as the added chlorine or chloramine will over time, cause the resin to degrade where it will become mushy and swell within the tank.

Chlorine will negatively impact the lifespan of any resin but resin with 10% cross-linking will better tolerate continuous chlorine exposure compared to standard 8% cross-link resin. Many big box store and softeners sold online are equipped with resin that has less than 8% cross-linking. With lower tolerance against chlorine, the resin may fail after only a few years and sometimes only months.

Suggest rebedding with the appropriate quantity of 10% cross-link resin and new bedding gravel. The best option would be to rebed with either 8% or 10% resin, and utilize a backwashing carbon filtration system to remove the chlorine prior to the softener.

Depending on whether your municipality uses chlorine or chloramine will determine if regular GAC (granular activated carbon) or premium Catalytic Carbon will be needed. Carbon of either type will also remove other contaminants including disinfection byproducts and many other chemicals.

Thanks for the information. I had a friend of mine look at it who works on these and he agreed that it needs rebedded, which he is going to do.
 
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