Low water flow in anti frost outdoor faucet

Discussion in 'Plumbing Forum, Professional & DIY Advice' started by Roi, Apr 11, 2021.

  1. Roi

    Roi New Member

    Joined:
    Apr 11, 2021
    Location:
    Philadelphia
    Hi all,

    I'm new to this forum which I found by looking for solution for the same problem I have.
    Our outdoor anti frost faucet has very low pressure. I turned off the shut off valve, opened and took some photos - see below.

    Any advice?
    Thanks in advance.

    ps edit - with some gentle force I've unscrewed the white plastic cap. It was tight, probably since last year when the o-ring erroded, I replaced it with whatever was available in store - which was I think a thicker o-ring. So now it's held tight. I fully opened it, then opened the shut-off valve, and still it's a low flow of water.

    IMG_7331.JPG


    IMG_7330.JPG
     
    Last edited: Apr 11, 2021
  2. WorthFlorida

    WorthFlorida The wife is still training me.

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    That cap is anti siphon device and has nothing to do with water flow. With the water shut off, remove the handle then the stem. It will be about 10" long. At the end there will be a washer that closes off the water flow. Replace that and before replacing the stem, turn on the water to flush out any debris.

    upload_2021-4-12_9-34-12.jpeg
     
    Last edited: Apr 13, 2021
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  4. seiyafan

    seiyafan New Member

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    If you turn it on what's the flow rate in GPM? You can use a 5 gallon bucket to measure.
     
  5. Roi

    Roi New Member

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    Thank you guys for the helpful answers. I opened the faucet and indeed without it there's a much stronger flow; i didn't measure it in GPM but it's at least twice stronger. I opened-closed the shut-off to full power, trying to release something that might be stuck there. Washed the inner part of the spigot. And still when re-connected it all, the flow is still slow.
    I repeated it all again, no change. Attaching a photo of the inner parts.
    Any advise? they seem fine to my un-experienced eye...

    IMG_7347.JPG IMG_7346.JPG
     
  6. Reach4

    Reach4 Well-Known Member

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    Location:
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    Maybe put an appropriate diameter flex tube/hose on the open end of the plumbing, using a hose clamp to secure it. Turn on the water. Two things... is the flow from that much bigger that way, and does debris maybe get washed out?

    If you fill a 5-gallon bucket, the gpm is 300 divided by (the number of seconds it takes to fill the bucket).
     
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  7. seiyafan

    seiyafan New Member

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    Location:
    New York
    if you look at the cutaway view, anti-frost faucet is like a pipe within a pipe, so the flow will be restricted. If you can install a ball valve you can replace it with a regular faucet.
     
  8. Reach4

    Reach4 Well-Known Member

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    Location:
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    You appear to not understand the frost free faucet purpose and construction.
     
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  9. Roi

    Roi New Member

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    Location:
    Philadelphia
    Thanks everyone. I'll get a flex hose and hose clamp and measure the gpm for both flows.
    Just to clarify - a year ago, on the same hose and faucet, the flow was substantially stronger. I have two drip systems connected to it and a garden hose, and used to get good pressure.
     
  10. Roi

    Roi New Member

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    it took a little over 4 mins with the spigot... so about 1.2gpm. way too slow
     
  11. WorthFlorida

    WorthFlorida The wife is still training me.

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  12. Roi

    Roi New Member

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    ~45 sec without the inner part of the spigot/valve. so almost 7gpm. which already makes more sense.
    Thanks for these photos and explanations!!!
    I'll get some silicone to lube the o-rings. Do you think the little-dry O ring can affect the flow that much? that's ~4 times slower...
     
  13. Reach4

    Reach4 Well-Known Member

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    Location:
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    No way.

    Is that a set screw about 15% along the blue line, starting on he left side of the line? I am trying to figure out how water gets by that seal that is about 30% along the blue line. It must go inside by the spring.


    You might take these numbers to the maker, and ask what they think.
     
  14. Roi

    Roi New Member

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    Thanks.
    That is a screw - I attach a photo from the other side. IMG_7348.JPG
     
  15. Roi

    Roi New Member

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    Location:
    Philadelphia
    ok. I soaked the "moving part" in a cleaning solution (didn't have descaling, which i wanted, in case there's mineral built inside; used degreaser). washed, blew strongly. applied silicone. resealed with teflon all connection points.
    Now I get to fill a 5gal in 2:45 instead of 4+ mins... which is approx 2gpm. better than 1.2 (before), worse then 6.8 (without the spigot).

    Do these numbers make more sense for such a system?

    Thanks again for you all being such a helpful resource!
     
  16. Reach4

    Reach4 Well-Known Member

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    I think you have identified your problem and lead to a cure.

    Soak it in vinegar a long time, I would say. Maybe agitated periodically. Petroleum is not good for rubber.

    If removing that screw let you take the assembly apart, you could clean mechanically.
     
    Last edited: Apr 17, 2021
  17. WorthFlorida

    WorthFlorida The wife is still training me.

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    Retired
    Location:
    Orlando, Florida
    The O-rings have nothing to do with water flow. It just seals off the pressure side from working around on the outside of the valve. The rubber cup also looks stiff and that could be restricting some flow. It looks as if it prevents water from draining from the valve itself and maybe blocks some cold air. From the cup to the spigot will drain of water when the garden hose is removed from the spigot. At the inlet an eyeball look should look clean of mineral deposits after a long soak in vinegar. After the soak turn the stem while holding the valve body to see that the ceramic move freely and all the way open from close.
     
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