Low pressure after a minute of use

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Ryan Greene

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Hello,
I just purchased a home and my first home with a well. When we moved in we knew there was a low pressure issue so I did what I thought was logical; recharged pressure tank to 38 PSI (it was at 0), put in new 40/60 pressure switch, removed and cleaned gate style shut off valve. I had a well service company come out and check what I did and they said everything is good on the well side. Pressure stays between 40 and 60, tank bladder is holding at 38, spigot at tank and wide open holds at 50 PSI, so no pressure issue on the well side. When I go to the spigot just after the shut off valve it turns on with good pressure but quickly drops to a trickle. Same issue inside the home, good pressure for a minute then slows down to a trickle. My house has a crawl space, but the shut off valve is located outside, just below a spigot. Also, I can see possibly two other devices or maybe reducers before the shut off valve. Could these be some sort of small filter or pressure regulators? I really cannot tell what they are because they are buried in stucco and paint. I might need to chip it away to figure out what they are. Any ideas on increasing the pressure here?
Thanks!
 

Reach4

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When the pressure drops at the pressure switch, the pump should go on. If it does not, there are various possible causes.

I think you may be saying that the pressure gauge still shows plenty of pressure. What is strange is that you seem to be saying that the house has good pressure for up to a minute, but then the pressure drops way off.

Tell us about your pump, such as where it is -- down the well, or on top of the well, or wherever.
When I go to the spigot just after the shut off valve it turns on with good pressure but quickly drops to a trickle. Same issue inside the home, good pressure for a minute then slows down to a trickle. My house has a crawl space, but the shut off valve is located outside, just below a spigot.
How about a photo that includes the pipe to the pump if visible, pipe from the pump, the shut off valve, the spigot, and the pressure gauge.
 

Ryan Greene

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The pump kicks in properly at 40 psi and runs until 60, seems to be no issue with the pump which the well service company also said. The tank is sitting slightly up a hill about 5 feet above the first floor level. Pump is in the well, I do not know how deep. Hopefully these pics give you a good idea. The pic of the spigot at the house has some other pipe to the right. The one to the right seems to be PVC.
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Reach4

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The pic of the spigot at the house has some other pipe to the right. The one to the right seems to be PVC.
I suspect the one on the right is carrying electrical wires.

You have a 3-wire submersible pump. It may be that the start capacitor has gotten weak and the pump does not always start right away. I would replace that capacitor. The start capacitor is in the control box -- the box screwed to the wooden post.

It could also be that there is a problem with the pressure switch. You could measure the voltage to the pump on the terminals of the pressure switch.

There are more electrical troubleshooting that you could do. But since the start capacitor is nearly certain to go bad after enough starts, I would start there.

You should protect pvc pipe from long term sun. That can be with paint or a cover.
 

Jadnashua

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It appears that the riser to your pressure switch is galvanized steel. Is that the case? If so, it could have a lot of rust on the inside that may be slowing the reaction of the switch to pressure changes. In fact, if there's any galvanized in the system, the ID can be severely restricted because of rust and would be suspect.

How are you measuring the pressure in the tank? The pressure needs to be checked with the system open and the pump off so there's no water pushing on it, otherwise, it will just measure the actual water pressure, not the static pressure. The pressure tank should be able to provide at least a few gallons prior to it dropping enough for the pump to come one. If you can watch a pressure gauge, does it drop linearly as you use water?

There is PVC designed for potable, pressurized water...hopefully, that's what you have and it's not done in DWV material that can't handle your pressures.
 

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Sounds like you have a restriction. Use the faucet at the tank. With this faucet on does the pump cycle between 40 and 60? Does this faucet have good pressure? If it does and water pressure in the house is weak after a minute even though the pump is still cycling between 40 and 60, then nothing is wrong with the pump, and you have a restriction somewhere. If the pressure on the gauge goes below 40 and does not cycle on/off between 40 and 60 while you are using water, then the pump is bad, but I don't believe that is your problem.
 

Ryan Greene

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If it does and water pressure in the house is weak after a minute even though the pump is still cycling between 40 and 60, then nothing is wrong with the pump, and you have a restriction somewhere

Yes, that's the word I was looking for, restriction! Faucet at tank I can open wide and it sprays a good 10 feet, pressure will drop to 40 and pump kicks in and pressure goes to 60 and continues the cycle. So I am not concerned about the pump or tank, all is good there. So where's the restriction?? I know I have all the valves open properly. Could it be one of those two pieces just below the shut off valve? It's the first picture, the ugly yellow that was painted over everything.
 

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Unless that gate valve painted yellow is broken off, I don't see anything else there that could cause a restriction. But gate valve handles do break and the gate could be stuck and causing the restriction. You can unscrew the packing gland and remove the gate in that valve, or at least inspect it and put it back. Do you have any filters that could be clogged? Have you done any excavating recently? Had any muddy spots where a car tire sank in and could have crushed the pipe?
 

Ryan Greene

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I just purchased the home last Monday, so I don't know the history. I know there was low pressure when I had it inspected about a month ago. I have not seen any filters and there is no water softener. I think the one thing I haven't done yet is look under the house. There is a crawl space so maybe the problem is in there?
I have a plumber coming to my house this afternoon, I'll have him go check the crawl space!
 

Ryan Greene

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Hopefully it's easier than that, I really don't want to jack up the concrete to get to it!

I'll post what the plumber finds tonight.
 

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The plumber came over and help me to determine the issue. We pulled the gate out of the shut off valve and left the knob off so full water pressure could come out when the pump was running. Still not much pressure. Concluded that the issue is the main line is clogged with sediment. Makes sense since the faucet at the tank runs full pressure and the open valve at the house has extremely low pressure.

Now I'd like some suggestions on blowing out the main line, if this is even possible?? I don't really want to run new line since it is about 100 feet and through a lot of roots. I was thinking I could dig and find the main line closest to the house, cut it, put on an elbow and bring it above ground slightly. Then on the tank side, dig to find the main, cut it, install a tee and a new shut off valve, and off the tee I can run my compressor into it. So the logic here, close the valve at the tank, run compressed air through the main line with water behind to help blow out the sediment. Make sense??

Plumber also recommended some sort of solvent to help break up the sediment. I have used muriatic acid to break concrete dust out of drain lines before. Could this work to help break up the sediment? Am I over thinking this? Is there an easier way?

Thanks!!
 

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I would cut the pipe at the house and the pressure tank and blow backwards from the house to the well. If you cap the pipe you cut at the tank, you can use that faucet and a hose to hook up at the house and wash backwards towards the well also. Whatever is in there got stuck going forwards, I usually try to blow or wash it back the way it came. Be careful with air in PVC pipe. PVC makes darn good shrapnel if the air blows up the pipe.
 

Ryan Greene

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Good tip, thanks! I think I will regulate my compressor to 80 PSI to start, and go up a little from there if needed.

I'll try to get some pics if it's not too dark! Damn Day light savings
 

Ryan Greene

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I didn't have time to dig up and cut the main line tonight. I put together some fittings to blow the lines. Then I can easily cut the main line on each side, paste in these and start blowing the line!
With the 3/4 thread at the top of the PVC I can eathier use a garden hose or the connection to the air tank. And the 1 inch thread allows me to move the top PVC piece to either end so I can go back and forth if needed.
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Jadnashua

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I didn't see a clear image of the info stamped on the pipe, but it looks like pvc drainage piping. If so, pressurizing it is very dangerous. The stuff will likely shatter catastrophically unless it is rated for pressure once you hit it with what you're talking about. There is pressure pvc, just can't tell for sure what you have there.
 
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