Looking for Advice - Basement Bathroom Rough-in

[Brad W]

Hi plumbers and DIYers,

I'm looking for some feedback on my proposed rough in layout for a basement bathroom that I'd like to put in. I live in Portland Oregon, and I plan to have an inspector review this layout after I'm done, but it would be great to get some early notes before I go breaking concrete.

I have a very old house, but the main drain line was replaced with 4" ABS before I moved in. The drain looks to be deep enough, and my planned bathroom location is very favorable for gravity to do the work, with a 1/4" drop every foot.

I've built up my plans in CAD. Please let me know if I'm missing anything. The only item I haven't places is an access point for a cleanout. I'm thinking it makes the most sense to put it in at the sink drain, but any advice would be appreciated.

 

[James Henry]

Need to see a floor plan layout.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Brad W]

Need to see a floor plan layout.

Just added a basic floor plan with some reference dimensions.

 

[James Henry]

Both of these should pass.

 

[Brad W]

James, thanks for the help! Do the venting options change if I'm choosing to use AAVs?

I like the suggested "Floor Plan toit last" because it's less concrete work for me, but is one AAV adequate for this layout?

Couple more questions:
Do you think a cleanout at the sink is the right idea?
Is a backwater valve required anywhere in this layout?

 

[James Henry]

James, thanks for the help! Do the venting options change if I'm choosing to use AAVs?

I like the suggested "Floor Plan toit last" because it's less concrete work for me, but is one AAV adequate for this layout?

Couple more questions:
Do you think a cleanout at the sink is the right idea?
Is a backwater valve required anywhere in this layout?

https://ipscorp.com/pdf/studor/Studor_Technical_Manual.pdf

question 1: I think so, check with your inspector he has the final say.
question 2: having a clean out under a sink is not required by code because a removable p-trap is considered a means for snaking the drain. its your choice.
question 3: If your shower drain is lower than the nearest upstream sewer manhole then you need a backwater valve. you can research it on Al Gore's amazing internet.

 

[Brad W]

https://ipscorp.com/pdf/studor/Studor_Technical_Manual.pdf

question 1: I think so, check with your inspector he has the final say.
question 2: having a clean out under a sink is not required by code because a removable p-trap is considered a means for snaking the drain. its your choice.
question 3: If your shower drain is lower than the nearest upstream sewer manhole then you need a backwater valve. you can research it on Al Gore's amazing internet.

Thanks for the help James!

 

[James Henry]

A Little Touch up.

 

[Brad W]

A Little Touch up.

That's funny, I actually just switched my plans to this while buying the fittings. I didn't think that fitting existed until I saw it in the store.

 

[James Henry]

One final thing. it doesn't hurt to run a 2" vent, studor vents come with a 2" slip female adapter.

 

[Brad W]

One final thing. it doesn't hurt to run a 2" vent, studor vents come with a 2" slip female adapter.

Well, I took out the concrete, and dry fit the setup that we were talking about. It looks good for slope. Let me know if you notice anything out of wack. Obviously, I didn't install the vent, but that's just because I ran out of " pipe.

 

[James Henry]

Looks good. I was surprised you changed your mind on the layout.

 

[Brad W]

Looks good. I was surprised you changed your mind on the layout.

I know. I thought I found that fitting, but I was wrong. I couldn't find it, so I pieced it together the way it was before. I would have preferred it your way, because it seems like it would all flow better, and I wouldn't have to deal with so many fittings, but Home Depot just didn't have it. Trust me, I've been there 3 times today, haha.

 

[James Henry]

I just checked your local plumbing code and you need to make sure your shower drain is no longer than 60" Your under the UPC and its very strict.

 

[Brad W]

I just checked your local plumbing code and you need to make sure your shower drain is no longer than 60" Your under the UPC and its very strict.

Just when I thought I was out of the weeds... It all depends on where exactly the measurements are taken. And yes, I do need to swap out that short sweep 90 for a long sweep.

 

[James Henry]

Just when I thought I was out of the weeds... It all depends on where exactly the measurements are taken. And yes, I do need to swap out that short sweep 90 for a long sweep.

Your right on the money. Lucky guy.

 

[WorthFlorida]

AAV's to me have there place but not everywhere. I say that because they are used all over my current home built in 2007. I have 1.5 bath first floor, second floor full bath with a tub and two sinks. First floor three bathroom sinks and kitchen use AAV's. Not sure about the first floor shower and two toilets. The second floor is one AAV. I only learned this after a remodel how many AAV's are in use. There is one roof vent however.

Problem is: The second floor toilet always loses water in the bowl. It may take hours but never consistent. What I think is happening is as water used on the first floor, especially when a toilet is flushed, the slug of water draining is pulling in air from the AAV's or roof vent, but the second floor drain must have a slight negative pressure and this trickles out some water from the toilet bowl. Probably not enough negative pressure to open the AAV. During the remodel it was too late with a scheduled tiler on hand to add a roof vent. Also, the way the roof truss and wall was framed I would have had to added a soffit in the bathroom to accommodate a roof vent. I have no problem with this but if there is anyway you can vent to the roof, you'll be better off though AAV's are allowed by code.

BTW, the toilet used before the remodel was a Briggs and the replacement was a Toto.