Locate and Purchase pump start relay - Electrica RVA2LKL

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MichaelSK

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I am having a hard time locating a relay (Electrica RVA2LKL). Removed from a 3/4hp Shakti controller. Could a Franklin part be used? Maybe a Franklin Mfr. Model # 305213902?
 

Ballvalve

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Shakti is from India, no? That should tell you. Try to cross reference with Graingers, you only need size, amp rating and coil voltage.
 

MichaelSK

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Post a picture.
Hello Valveman, thanks for the reply. I will post a link to Electrica's site (much better photo than I can produce). The relay is similar to the image, except the one I removed does not have the square assembly of electrical contacts in the lower left corner. The electrical contacts are all located along the top and right side of the relay as shown. SUMMARY OF EVENT: We awakened in the morning after a night of vivid close lightning storms to find we had no water. Upon examination of the controller box, which is located inside the mechanical room in the house, I discovered that a fine charcoal dust surrounded the relay. There was no other obvious damage (capacitor swelling, signs of arcing, burned contacts on the pressure switch, tripped breaker, damaged type II surge device, etc). I believe that the start capacitor reset had been tripped. If it was not lightning, and given that the controller-pump assembly is only two years old, then I WILL purchase your CSV product to reduce cycling associated with the water to air heatpump. As an aside, for additional discussion, some well guys here in north central Florida were reluctant to recommend the valve because of our hydrology. We sit on Karst, on occasion for a few days to a week the water will become very cloudy with fine sediment..... I was concerned that at these times the CSV would become clogged (must be a small orifice to slowly fill a tank at a nominal 1 gal/min)....? Your comments most welcomed. https://www.electrica.it/en/products/start-relays

btw: I ordered what I think is the correct relay from Graingers (wish all the technical specs were listed, would make selection much easier), however, I also purchased a new Shakti control box from an outfit out of Fort Meyers Florida (on sale) for not much more than the relay - sad.

While I am thinking about it, perhaps we could start a thread about pump and controller protection from lightning. Here in Florida we have many huge storms - been having them daily for weeks here in north central Florida. I have a type I surge protector on my meter box, a type II on my main panel......
 

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Yeah looks like a standard start relay, any brand should work.

The bypass in the CSV is not an orifice. It is two half moon notches that when the valve closes turns into an orifice. That way if it encounters anything large enough to clog the orifice, the pressure will decrease, which opens the valve, splits the two half moons apart, and self flushes any debris. If you have Karst or sediment you do not want to use the plastic CSV125 valve, but the CSV1A is designed to take it.

Lightning can get you no matter how many surge protectors you have. Lightning arrestors in strategic locations and extra grounding are recommended, but doesn't always protect the pump. I have seen lightning take out a pump when it hit the ground a 1/2 mile from the well. The well itself is sometimes the path of least resistance.
 

Boycedrilling

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It’s common practice here for the farmers to turn off their wells pumps during lightening storms. They will also throw the breaker off in the Pump panel. I have seen lightening arc across an open breaker.

In the ‘90’s we used Robicon brand VFD’s. Just about every lightening storm we would have at least one drive fry a circuit board. Used a lot of a Nelson liquid drives back then too. Basically a torque converter between the motor and pump.
 

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It’s common practice here for the farmers to turn off their wells pumps during lightening storms. They will also throw the breaker off in the Pump panel. I have seen lightening arc across an open breaker.

In the ‘90’s we used Robicon brand VFD’s. Just about every lightening storm we would have at least one drive fry a circuit board. Used a lot of a Nelson liquid drives back then too. Basically a torque converter between the motor and pump.

Seen lighting get past open breakers many time as well. Also seen pumps with no panels and just the wire sticking up connected to nothing and still get hit by lightning.
 

MichaelSK

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Yeah that pump setting 100’s of feet into water makes a hell of a ground rod.
Few years ago I was sitting on the back step, storm clouds were (I thought, a couple of miles away) when almost in slow motion the bark of a large pine tree came splitting off from the top down in a curving line. It went into the ground along a large root and made a furrow 1 foot deep and 6 inches wide, next day I looked and there were tiny glass pellets strewn out along the furrowed ground. Strange how it almost seemed slow-motion, scared the you-know-what out of me (figure of speech). You could smell the acrid ozone and nitrogen compounds immediately afterwards. I lose about 6 of those big trees a year to lightning strikes.
 

MichaelSK

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Yeah looks like a standard start relay, any brand should work.

The bypass in the CSV is not an orifice. It is two half moon notches that when the valve closes turns into an orifice. That way if it encounters anything large enough to clog the orifice, the pressure will decrease, which opens the valve, splits the two half moons apart, and self flushes any debris. If you have Karst or sediment you do not want to use the plastic CSV125 valve, but the CSV1A is designed to take it.

Lightning can get you no matter how many surge protectors you have. Lightning arrestors in strategic locations and extra grounding are recommended, but doesn't always protect the pump. I have seen lightning take out a pump when it hit the ground a 1/2 mile from the well. The well itself is sometimes the path of least resistance.

Very good, am relieved, to hear how the "trickle refill" operates. The self-flushing design makes SO MUCH sense. I am sold.
 

MichaelSK

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Just got the Franklin Electric relay kit from Granger (kit # 305 2013 902) it's made in China, got online and checked the coil specs - the same as original. Installed it, it works, except the overload reset pops after a while. Could that be the run capacitor? The start reset doesn't pop just the "overall load reset switch." Could it be a bad switch? Valveman, get that CSV here quick...lol.
 

Valveman

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Most overloads are built into the motor. It is rare to have an overload in a control box anymore. Check the amps. If the amps are high the overload is doing its job. If the amps are OK you could bypass the overload in the box if the motor has one.
 

MichaelSK

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Need to locate specs on what the motor should pull. What are the function of each of the three wires? (Y,B,R) Is the yellow neutral? (i.e. the voltage from Y to G is zero, and Y to R is 120v, and Y to B is 120v?)
 

MichaelSK

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I located the Shakti pump data: Y-line amps (full load 6.7, max load 7.37); B-main amps (full load 5.8, max load 6.38); R-start amps (full load 2.6, max load 2.86). My problem is the main overload reset switch continues to pop open - the start overload reset switch remains closed - which obviously stops the pump. I checked the amps, and they are well within specs. (nominal line amps (Y) 6.3 amps; nominal main amps (B) 5.2).

Anyone have some insight as to why the main overload reset switch keeps popping open, seems like with increasing frequency?
 

Reach4

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I am not experienced with this. Is your Shakti pump a 3-wire submersible pump, and the overload reset switch is in the controller box?

If so, replacing the controller box might be a good idea. It gets you a new overload device, and also a new start capacitor and everything else.
 

Valveman

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Kilx-on type overloads have a little pen embedded in solder. When the solder gets hot from too much amperage it melts and releases the pin, which is pulled free with a spring. When you push the reset it shoves the pin back into the solder. After a few resets this type overloads gets weaker and weaker. If you are sure it is not drawing too many amps, replacing or bypassing the overload will keep the pump running.
 

MichaelSK

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Kilx-on type overloads have a little pen embedded in solder. When the solder gets hot from too much amperage it melts and releases the pin, which is pulled free with a spring. When you push the reset it shoves the pin back into the solder. After a few resets this type overloads gets weaker and weaker. If you are sure it is not drawing too many amps, replacing or bypassing the overload will keep the pump running.
Very interesting, Valveman, how the overload works. It is quite possible you have described the mechanism. Is it called a "Kilx_on type "overload?
 
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