Lightning damage to pump and casing?

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semipro

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After a recent thunderstorm with some nearby lightning strikes we noticed we had well problems. At first some of the symptoms seem unrelated but now I'm wondering and could use some input.

Our pump (2 HP) will now only run for about 15 secs and then it trips the thermal breaker in the control box. I've monitored the current going to the pump motor and it hangs at around 12 amps initially which is per spec but then it quickly climbs to the 30's and the breaker trips. I can reset it later an the pump motor will run again for a short time.

Also, we now hear the sound of dripping water at the top of the casing where we heard none before. We also noticed a slug of dirty brown water coming through our system right after the storm. I de-energized the well pump and shut all valves to see if the pressure in the pipe between well and tank dropped. It did not decrease over a period of about 4 hours, staying at 28 PSI. I also drained the tank and system completely to depressurize the pipe as much as possible and noticed no change in the dripping sound at the well casing top.

Put things together I'm starting to think a lightning strike damaged our motor and/or pump and the casing. The slug of dirty water may have resulted from soil entering the well through the casing breach. I've looked down the well with very bright light but see no water leaking in anywhere including the pitless adapter. Depth to water is about 200' so I can't see all the way down.

Am I thinking correctly here or am I off track?

Edit: well my wife got sick with a stomach problem last night and I'm feeling pretty rough today with similar symptoms. I'd hoped the casing leak was deep enough that pathogens wouldn't make their way into our water supply. I'm thinking now that I was overly optimistic.
 
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ThirdGenPump

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You are probably off track on the assumption of casing damage, that's rather unlikely. Taking a lightning hit will stir up crap in general. With the added rainfall it might be causing a leak you hadn't noticed before or you just never listened for it as much.

The pump tripping the overload is the issue you need to look into. Lightning strikes can destroy things in unpredictable ways. Start with the control box. you can spend time testing he components or just swap it out and see if that fixes the issue. If it's not the control box you're going to have to pull the pump.
 

Cacher_Chick

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I have talked to a good number of people who's home insurance covered a replacement well pump after a lightning strike. For most people it would be worth looking into.
 

semipro

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You are probably off track on the assumption of casing damage, that's rather unlikely. Taking a lightning hit will stir up crap in general. With the added rainfall it might be causing a leak you hadn't noticed before or you just never listened for it as much.

The pump tripping the overload is the issue you need to look into. Lightning strikes can destroy things in unpredictable ways. Start with the control box. you can spend time testing he components or just swap it out and see if that fixes the issue. If it's not the control box you're going to have to pull the pump.

Thanks. We've had a lot of lightning and many heavy storms over the years but have never seen the well water quality impacted. There seems to a precedent for this sort of casing damage being caused by lightning.
http://haagcertifiedinspector.com/hot-topic-0215/
http://inspectapedia.com/water/Well_Casing_Leaks.php
http://www.eng-tips.com/viewthread.cfm?qid=62980

From my understanding of how the control box works its unlikely the high current I"m seeing going to the pump motor could be related to a control box problem. Its a 3-wire motor and the "run" leg is the one with the high current. I'm checking current between the control box and pump.
 
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semipro

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I have talked to a good number of people who's home insurance covered a replacement well pump after a lightning strike. For most people it would be worth looking into.
Thanks. I'm aware that insurance companies cover lightning damages to wells and I've started the claim process.
My bigger concern though is whether the lightning caused the casing leak, and whether insurance will cover it.
 

Craigpump

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Hire a well contractor with a downhole camera to come in and do a camera survey. Record the video on a memory card and present it to the insurance company along with a letter on the contractors letter head.

As for the water quality, have a state approved lab come out and draw water samples. Test the water for the presence of bacteria. You want the lab to do the sampling and the analysis so there can't be any potential accusations of conflict of interest.
 

semipro

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I bought a small helmet cam and ran it down the well along with a small bright flashlight and got some great video. I was able get below the casing at 42 ft. to make sure that the casing wasn't leaking.
A local driller with a sonic depth sounder measured the depth at 275' which is 75 more than what was recorded when the pump was installed 16 years ago. He also confirmed a probable bad pump/motor. I'm betting the reason I'm hearing water entering the well now when I didn't before is because water is entering somewhere in the range between 2oo' and 275' which is not a problem.
I guess my bigger concern now is why is the static water level 75' deeper than it used to be. We've had a relatively wet year. Our pump is set at 440' and well depth is 500' so I'm wondering if I should consider installing the new pump a bit deeper?
 

semipro

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Not unless you are pumping air.
What is the disadvantage of setting the pump deeper if you have a deep enough well?
Other than added piping, wiring, and friction head that is? I could also imagine that setting it too low may result in less motor cooling maybe?
 

Valveman

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What is the disadvantage of setting the pump deeper if you have a deep enough well?
Other than added piping, wiring, and friction head that is? I could also imagine that setting it too low may result in less motor cooling maybe?
Yes, less motor cooling is the problem. However, if you have a flow inducer or shroud on the pump, you can set it a foot off the bottom.
 

semipro

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Yes, less motor cooling is the problem. However, if you have a flow inducer or shroud on the pump, you can set it a foot off the bottom.
Would the fact that I'm planning on using a Franklin "super stainless" 4" motor (224 300 9203) negate most of the cooling concerns associated with lowering the motor/pump?
From the Franklin literature: "Flow inducer sleeve not required in water up to 86 °F (30 °C) for motors through 2 hp"
 

Reach4

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A deeper pump can suck debris from the bottom that a higher pump might not. Debris is the reason that 20 ft from the bottom, rather than 10 ft, is common. Low water is a reason for lower, which is why you are considering lowering. Your well seem to have plenty of depth to mount the pump lower.

An advantage to a sleeve, in addition to cooling, is potential falling sediment from above might get sucked in without the sleeve as the sediment falls by the intake. Many wells only have casing at the top.
 

Valveman

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From the Franklin literature: "Flow inducer sleeve not required in water up to 86 °F (30 °C) for motors through 2 hp"

You have to consider the source. Franklin shortened their motors so they would not last as long and claimed it was to make the bearing end of the motor closer to the intake so a shroud would not be needed. Then they say you don't even need a shroud. However, they like to sell motors. :)
 

semipro

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You have to consider the source. Franklin shortened their motors so they would not last as long and claimed it was to make the bearing end of the motor closer to the intake so a shroud would not be needed. Then they say you don't even need a shroud. However, they like to sell motors. :)
Hmm. I went with a Franklin motor and Grundfos pump largely based on the advice on this forum.
Did I misinterpret what has been shared here?
 

semipro

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That is as good a combination as you can get anymore. I would just use a cooling shroud anytime it will fit, no matter what they say.
I've got a 4" motor/pump going in an 8" bore so installation of a cooling shroud is in the plans now.
Its interesting too that it extends the effective water intake depth down a few feet.
 

Valveman

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I've got a 4" motor/pump going in an 8" bore so installation of a cooling shroud is in the plans now.
Its interesting too that it extends the effective water intake depth down a few feet.

Yes a shroud will lower the effective intake of water, but the water level in the well must still be above the pump intake. Submersibles are not made for suction lift, and you will lose prime when the water level drops below the pump intake, even if the shroud is 10' longer than the motor/pump.
 

semipro

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Yes a shroud will lower the effective intake of water, but the water level in the well must still be above the pump intake. Submersibles are not made for suction lift, and you will lose prime when the water level drops below the pump intake, even if the shroud is 10' longer than the motor/pump.
Great point. That leaves me inclined to build in a small "leak" at the top of the shroud to allow any entrapped air to escape.
 

semipro

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I'm finally getting around to replacing the pump/motor this week.
The Grundfos installation instructions recommend additional check valves be installed. From what I've read here this can cause water hammer problems.
Assuming I do not install any check valves in the drop pipe, at the surface, or at the tank; is one still needed or recommended directly above the pump?

Edit: BTW, I was able to run a camera down the well without removing the pump and did not find any leaks in the casing or at the seal between casing bottom and bedrock.
 
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