Leaking Hot Water Heater...fixable? or replace?

[DeathSpiral]

My hot water heater has been leaking from somewhere behind the Relief Value inside the WH. You can see the settlement from the water leak on the outside of the WH and the insulation at the opening of the relief value is wet. Had a plumber look at it about a year ago and he said he could try to replace the relief valve pipe (I think?), but that if he broke it, I would need a new WH. Or leave it alone and if I could deal with a minor leak, then don't do anything. So we left it alone.

Now, there is a small pubble on the floor. Water drips slighly on one of the leg stands. I assume it's leaking from the same place, but not 100% sure. Is it worth trying to get it fixed? Is the plumber able to open it up and see? Or just replace it? Not 100% sure the relief valve leaking. It's leaking in that area, but don't see a exactly where it's leaking.

The WH is a Rheem 75 gallons, model 21VR75? Any Recommendations on the brand to buy next?

Thanks. Later...

- Wayne

 

[Terry]

Your tank could be about ten years old. If you look at the serial number and then use the Rheem web site, it should give you a manufacture date.

Normally a tank that is ten years old and leaking is replaced. I'm not saying it can't be fixed, if it's something simple like a leaking pipe from the top of the tank that can be easily removed and replaced, but with the outer skin and insulation, you hope to find an easy fix and run with it. If it's a leaking seam, or small crack, then there is no fix.
Tanks tend to last between 10 and 20 years.
The last gas water heater I installed gave out in a big way in 15 years. Lucky for me, I had put a drain pain with a 1" drain underneath the unit.

Rheem still makes a good water heater. At 75 gallons, you might also look into a tankless unit, if you have a large need for heated water.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[DeathSpiral]

The tank is about 12-13 years old. Unfortunately, it was installed by the builder and does not have a drain pan.

One of the recommended ones by our HVAC place was the A.O. Smith Model# FCG-75. It was $1,600 including installation. That price was a package price when they installed with a new HVAC system at my in-laws. So I assume it'll be slight higher if we get it installed by itself.

The tankless ones have not grown on me yet. I guess, I'm use to what I'm use to. If I lived in a townhouse and was short on space, I would probably give it more thought, but I guess I'm old fashion with a regular WH.

Thanks for your thoughts. Later...

- Wayne

 

[MACPLUMB]

You need a new relief valve and a thermal expansion tank installed A. S. A. P.

The relief valve is leaking because thermal expansion when water is heated causes it to drip, the sediment builds up and keeps the valve from closing back
the relief valve acts as a emergency brake to keep the water heater from exploding if you have a malfunction in gas valve causing the heater to get too hot, when valve is clogged with sediment it will not work
there for putting you and your family on the 6:00 clock news as the house that blew up today

 

[Terry]

12-13 years old and leaking behind the insulation?

Not sounding good to me. I would slip a new tank in there.

 

[MACPLUMB]

Yes a new tank with a thermal expansion tank included i would get about
$ 1600.00 for such a job without looking it could be more

 

[Ballvalve]

You need a new relief valve and a thermal expansion tank installed A. S. A. P.

The relief valve is leaking because thermal expansion when water is heated causes it to drip, the sediment builds up and keeps the valve from closing back
the relief valve acts as a emergency brake to keep the water heater from exploding if you have a malfunction in gas valve causing the heater to get too hot, when valve is clogged with sediment it will not work
there for putting you and your family on the 6:00 clock news as the house that blew up today

After 12 years now he needs an expansion tank? No logic there. Relief valves pretty much all fail in leak mode, not shut mode. Unless the plumber installed the tank upside down. And finally, to make it blow, He would have to seal the inlet and outlet. After 12 years, his washer hose and sink hose is the NEW relief valve

I would dig into the cover and see it there is just a nipple leak at least before dropping 1600$

 

[DeathSpiral]

Had the guy come over to get an estimate. The price is $1,1775 installed. Same place that quoted for the $1,600 package deal.

He couldn't tell where the leak was occuring. The WH relief valve and the pipe (inside the WH) was corroding. The relief valve is connected directly to the sump dump drain via copper pipe. So, if it did drip, it would drip directly into the drain.

It did not have a expansion tank. The quote does include an expansion tank though.

I'll probably just get a new one. I have old memories at my mom's house on Christmas Day when I was a kid and the hot water blew and spilled all it contents in the basement.

Thanks for all the responses. Been very helpful.

Later...

- Wayne

 

[DeathSpiral]

What is better, the expansion tank or the expansion valve? Looks like what I have is an additional pipe coming off cold input pipe into the WH and goes directly into the sump pump drain. This pipe is in addition to the relief valve pipe.

Thanks. Later...

- Wayne

 

[Terry]

I like the expansion tank, and you will have at least one T&P (temperature and pressure) relief on the tank itself.
The expansion tank gives space for the water to expand without forcing water out.
It's also a nice cushion when someone opens up a faucet or flushes a toilet.

 

[Tom Sawyer]

Both are required under most codes now.

 

[DeathSpiral]

Both are required under most codes now.

In Virginia it varies. In one county (Fairfax), neither is required. In a couple of other counties, only the expansion tank is required. In my county, it seems either required, but not both.

 

[hj]

UNTIL you know whether his system is closed or open, suggesting an expansion tank is both premature and probably needless, (and maybe irresponsible). If it is leaking ANYWHERE except at a pipe thread, (which is unlilely), then the oNLY remedy is a new tank. It is useless to even attempt to repair a leaking water heater tank.

 

[Terry Love]

Here in Washington State, the T&P is required.

A few years back in the Seattle area, a water heater exploded through the roof of a garage and landed two blocks away in the middle of a roadway.

The expansion tank is only required if the system is closed.
I still like them though. It makes the home feel like it has larger pipes.

 

[hj]

quoote; The relief valve is connected directly to the sump dump drain via copper pipe. So, if it did drip, it would drip directly into the drain.

IF what you wrote is the "truth", then the relief valve pipe is both improper, and potentially a health hazard. It CANNOT be connected "directly" to ANYTHING. It must have an "air gap" at the point where it discharges into a drain.

 

[MACPLUMB]

After 12 years now he needs an expansion tank? No logic there.

MANY TIMES THE WATER COMPANY INCREASES THE WATER PRESSURE OVER THE YEARS WITHOUT NOTICE TO HOMEOWNERS OR HAVE ADDED A CHECK VALVE IN THE METER
SO WHAT MAY HAVE BEEN OK A FEW YEARS AGO
NOW NEEDS A EXPANSION TANK,
I HAVE SEEN THIS DONE IN MANY PLACES,
BALLVALVE YOU NEED TO STICK WITH YOUR HOMEMADE CONSTRUCTION AND LEAVE THE
PLUMBING TO THE PROFESSIONALS WHO DO IT FOR A LIVING,
NOT AS PART TIME WANT A BE IMHO

 

[Terry]

In one of my previous homes, the city came out and replaced the water meter with a meter and check valve.
I now had a closed system; without any warning from the water department.

My heater failed within months.

 

[Ballvalve]

UNTIL you know whether his system is closed or open, suggesting an expansion tank is both premature and probably needless, (and maybe irresponsible). If it is leaking ANYWHERE except at a pipe thread, (which is unlilely), then the oNLY remedy is a new tank. It is useless to even attempt to repair a leaking water heater tank.

MCPlumb, I'll' bet those cans put one of your kids thru college.

I guess that makes HJ a homeowner hack too? I'll go with his thought. If the utilities are so stupid to raise pressure and close systems without very serious notice, then they owe you the tank. Also plumbers make money selling needless parts in the name of safety without checking closed or not.

I see the plumbers here fleecing hundreds on wells and even with tankless heaters with a little bag in a can.

One of you who write plumbing code reccomendations should also lower the T&P relief pressure to 100 or so. But the bag in a can guys likely won't allow it.

 

[Terry]

A T&P is set for 150 PSI
There are plenty of homes that over pressurize when the water heats up without an expansion tank.

It's a fact of life in the big cities, that water districts are installing check valves on water meters. When they do that, we need the expansion tank to prevent constant dripping on the T&P's and early failure of the tanks.