Leaking drain line

[Scottp999]

Hi, I'm stuck on how to fix a softener drain leak. I had a company come out last year for an install and re-config of my filter system,

and they changed the drain from standard 5/8" OD and 1/2" ID, over to PEX so that 2 devices could merge into same line and drain (one was a water softener and other a new Ion exchange for nitrate reduction).. They cut the 1/2" ID drain line and tried to mate it with the remaining PEX drain line that routes all the way to the drain. They were using the connection below, but with a male to barb connector that was plastic. Where the barb went into the 1/2ID drain line it was clamped down with a hose clamp. After a year the hose clamp loosened and the connection began to link.

When I took the clamp off, it seemed like the barbs going into the 1/2" ID drain line were too small, very easy to push in. This made me wonder if they were sized for the ID of PEX, which I think is .485" ID and not .50" and the installers just clamped down on it and hoped it worked. Today I tried another local plumbing company to try to fix the leak, because no matter how I tried to hose clamp it down it leaks. They came out, put in the metal male to pex fitting and crimped it down. They said it was fixed, gave me a bill and left. I was on calls for work and when i got to look at it, it was leaking again at the same place, just beyond the crimp from the .50ID normal drain line.

Is there a good way to properly mate these 2 lines so they don't leak?

 

[Reach4]

Pretty horrible. I think you are saying that is one leak.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-1-2-in-Barb-x-1-2-in-MIP-Brass-Adapter-Fitting-800189/300096763 seems like the right part with the wrong photo. But the dimensional drawing matches I think.

As far as getting the copper ring off without hurting the tubing, I don't know.

The plumber who did the work won't make good on it?

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Scottp999]

Right the leak is at the bottom/lowest arrow. I'm not sure I want to have them back, but I can try one more time I've heard of people using a dremel to cut the crimps. Thanks for your thoughts.

 

[Bannerman]

From your description and markings in your photo, it seems the connections from the softener and Anion system are 5/8" diameter, but are being reduced to fit a 1/2" PEX drain line that appears to be routed upwards before being discharged some undefined distance away.

Each type of media and tank diameter, requires a specific drain flow rate to acheive the appropriate backwash rate needed to expand and reclassify the media during regeneration. When the drain flow is reduced, the media will often not perform as well as expected, and the media's lifespan may be reduced as a result.

The manufacturer of each equipment will usually specify the drain tube type and minimum diameter within the installation manual. The drain tube diameter will typically need to be increased when routing the drain line upwards above the height of the control valve, and when the drain line is to be run an extended distance from the equipment.

With the flow rate restricted by using 1/2" PEX, the backwash rate for both units is likely being reduced below the flow rate needed for each.

With your equipment connections requiring 5/8" tubing, with the upward flow path, I would then anticipate 3/4" tubing to be the appropriate minimum diameter to discharge both pieces of equipment. Each will need to be programmed to regenerate at alternate hours to ensure there will be no overlap on the occaisions they both regenerate during the same night.

 

[Scottp999]

From your description and markings in your photo, it seems the connections from the softener and Anion system are 5/8" diameter, but are being reduced to fit a 1/2" PEX drain line that appears to be routed upwards before being discharged some undefined distance away.

Each type of media and tank diameter, requires a specific drain flow rate to acheive the appropriate backwash rate needed to expand and reclassify the media during regeneration. When the drain flow is reduced, the media will often not perform as well as expected, and the media's lifespan may be reduced as a result.

The manufacturer of each equipment will usually specify the drain tube type and minimum diameter within the installation manual. The drain tube diameter will typically need to be increased when routing the drain line upwards above the height of the control valve, and when the drain line is to be run an extended distance from the equipment.

With the flow rate restricted by using 1/2" PEX, the backwash rate for both units is likely being reduced below the flow rate needed for each.

With your equipment connections requiring 5/8" tubing, with the upward flow path, I would then anticipate 3/4" tubing to be the appropriate minimum diameter to discharge both pieces of equipment. Each will need to be programmed to regenerate at alternate hours to ensure there will be no overlap on the occaisions they both regenerate during the same night.

Thanks for you reply, although it makes me uneasy that a company that specializes in this work would potentially under size the drain lines. I have another plumber coming out tomorrow from a different company to see if he can take care of me.

 

[Bannerman]

Many plumbers are not in the water treatment business.