Leaking Connection - Help Please!

Users who are viewing this thread

Yukoner777

Member
Messages
44
Reaction score
0
Points
6
Location
Whitehorse, Yukon
Hi guys
I'm hoping someone can tell me how to fix this leak. I've installed a new pair of vessel sinks with the single-handle vessel faucets (Vigo brand). The connections to the faucets that have the two o-rings are fine, but the connections to the supply valves are leaking. I've attached some pics, as follows:
  • The first pic is one of the valves
  • The second is the nut and (I'm assuming) a compression washer
  • The third is the ends of one of the original lines that came with the faucets. I can't get these lines where I live; I have to order them online.
  • The fourth is the end of the replacement line I ordered
  • The fifth is the old and new lines side by side

I didn't use the compression washer (and of course not the nut) that came with the valves.
I tried them today (thinking maybe that was the solution), but neither of the lines will even start to thread with the compression washer on. Although they are the same diameter as the nut that came on the valve, neither of the nuts on the braided lines are as deep.

I cleaned the threads off and used fresh teflon tape on the threads each time I tried a new 'solution'.

The day I first hooked all four lines up, they all seemed fine until I checked about 30 minutes later and one hot water line had about a three inch diameter puddle under it. The other three ( I thought) seemed to be okay.
I tried tightening the nut a couple of times, but it still leaked. So I removed it and saw that the washer had peeled off (very thin) along the outside. I couldn't find any replacement washers. I tried making one and added some silicone sealer to assist, but it still leaked.
I bought a little box of beveled washers that fit inside the nut, as well as a different valve (thinking at the time that this was the only one leaking, so maybe it was a problem with that particular valve). I thought the beveled washer had cured the leak, so I returned the valve to the store. But the next morning another puddle. And now, after using the other sink for a few days, I noticed that there was a wet spot under that one also.

What am I missing here? This is really frustrating me.

Thanks
Ross
 

Attachments

  • IMG_1788.JPG
    IMG_1788.JPG
    38.4 KB · Views: 445
  • IMG_1786.JPG
    IMG_1786.JPG
    63.1 KB · Views: 413
  • IMG_1789.JPG
    IMG_1789.JPG
    59.2 KB · Views: 601
  • IMG_1790.JPG
    IMG_1790.JPG
    37.2 KB · Views: 456
  • IMG_1791.JPG
    IMG_1791.JPG
    37.4 KB · Views: 651

Terry

The Plumbing Wizard
Staff member
Messages
29,942
Reaction score
3,458
Points
113
Location
Bothell, Washington
Website
terrylove.com
I never use tape on those threads. Tape can cause leaks, as a fine thread of it can lay between the rubber washer and the seat of the valve letting water past.
If the washers had been new, I would have threaded them down with clean threads.
 

Yukoner777

Member
Messages
44
Reaction score
0
Points
6
Location
Whitehorse, Yukon
I was very careful with the teflon tape, not to get it close to the opening, so I don't think there was a problem with the tape interfering with the rubber washer. But what I'm wondering if this fitting on the end of the braided line is compatible with the supply valve? It threads on properly, but since the supply valve came with a "compression washer" (?), do I need some kind of adaptor to mate the braided line to the supply valve? As it is right now, the rim of the supply valve would only contact the very outside edge of the washer. That's why there was a very fine piece of the washer that peeled off.

The braided line fitting isn't a compression fitting, is it?

Thanks
Ross
 

Terry

The Plumbing Wizard
Staff member
Messages
29,942
Reaction score
3,458
Points
113
Location
Bothell, Washington
Website
terrylove.com
Faucets come with supplies that fit standard 3/8" compression stops. I toss the nut and sleeve when I"m using those. The nut and sleeve is used when you're using a solid copper riser. Most of those are chromed.
If you are wrapping the threads, the tape serves no purpose. All the tape does is muck things up.
 

Jadnashua

Retired Defense Industry Engineer xxx
Messages
32,770
Reaction score
1,190
Points
113
Location
New England
If the internal washer is still intact, the tape can CREATE a leak, rather than helping it. That kind of supply line works almost like a water hose does...tightening the nut compresses the washer against the seat (in this case, is the faucet). PTFE tape only works properly in tapered pipe threads, not straight threads.
 

Yukoner777

Member
Messages
44
Reaction score
0
Points
6
Location
Whitehorse, Yukon
Okay, I won't use tape. I think the washer is still okay on the second set I got.

How tight should it be? Is there a rule of thumb? Or do I do it a bit at a time until it stops leaking? That could take hours.
 
Last edited:

Jadnashua

Retired Defense Industry Engineer xxx
Messages
32,770
Reaction score
1,190
Points
113
Location
New England
Finger tight and maybe 1/2-turn or so...it's a matter of feel that is hard to teach without experience. You don't need to tighten your water hose up with pliers if the gasket is good. So, some people might not need pliers or a wrench. You want it tight enough so that it doesn't leak if it gets knocked when say you're sweeping or mopping and displace it a bit.
 

Yukoner777

Member
Messages
44
Reaction score
0
Points
6
Location
Whitehorse, Yukon
I'm going to order two more pairs of the braided lines and I'm not going to use teflon tape this time. I cleaned off one of them and tried it without any tape and discovered that the tape prevents me from feeling when the nut is tight. After just doing it finger-tight, I'm going to just snug it a bit and see if that is watertight. If I find a leak after an hour or so, I'll snug it a wee bit more. I'm hoping that will do the trick.

I also noticed that the rim of the valve was just a tiny bit rough on one area, which I'm thinking may also account for leakage. So I might end up getting another valve or two, also.

Thanks for the advice, gentlemen.
Ross
 

PlumbSolve

Member
Messages
78
Reaction score
3
Points
8
Location
South Africa
As has been said the ptfe will just create problems. I would just buy two fibre washers and throw them in. Its easy to know if you are winning by simply hand tightening the nut of the flexi connector to the angle shut off valve .When the nut is hand tight just nip it with a spanner. If you can physically turn the braided connector with your hand it means the washers haven't compressed and it will definitely leak. Sometimes if products have been mixed up its possible the brass section of the braided connector is bottoming out on the angle valve instead of the washer. So you get brass to brass making contact instead of rubber washer to brass. All our braided connectors are 1/2 inch and we have many chinese products. Its a problem as there seems no standerd in the depth of cut thread and often you will land up having to force a nut on which is not ideal.
 

Yukoner777

Member
Messages
44
Reaction score
0
Points
6
Location
Whitehorse, Yukon
I'm not able to find a washer that has both the correct outside and inside diameters. But also, the center of the fitting has a small ridge at the top (sort of flared, I guess you could say) so that I would have to stretch the washer to get it over the center brass. Anyway, I've ordered another two sets and am fairly confident that they'll be okay when I use them without any tape.

How about using a dab of silicone grease on the rubber? Is that recommended? I got a tiny package of that with my Moen faucets.
 

Reach4

Well-Known Member
Messages
38,798
Reaction score
4,412
Points
113
Location
IL
How about using a dab of silicone grease on the rubber? Is that recommended? I got a tiny package of that with my Moen faucets.
I think a little silicone grease on the rubber, or the metal of the valve that will mate with the rubber, will help with the new hoses.
 
Last edited:
Top
Hey, wait a minute.

This is awkward, but...

It looks like you're using an ad blocker. We get it, but (1) terrylove.com can't live without ads, and (2) ad blockers can cause issues with videos and comments. If you'd like to support the site, please allow ads.

If any particular ad is your REASON for blocking ads, please let us know. We might be able to do something about it. Thanks.
I've Disabled AdBlock    No Thanks