Lead Flange

[lodgera]

I'm renovating the bathroom in an 1892 farmhouse that was plumbed probably in the 1940's. After I removed the toilet and got rid of the huge mess of wax and whatever flange was buried in there, I have this (new subfloor shown):

I'm guessing this is a lead flange? It is very malleable. The flange is about 6" diameter and the ID is about 3". This is a short flange/pipe (~2") that goes into a cast iron hub, which you can see in the photo below, as well as the same hub from the crawlspace.

What do I do here? Should I get one of those gasketed repair flanges that goes inside this lead pipe/flange? If that's viable, the lead flange is about .75" above the subfloor. My finished floor is only going to add maybe .3", so the lead flange is way too high. Should I cut it down to the level of the subfloor and use the gasket repair flange? Is there an easy way get the lead pipe/flange out of the cast iron so I can use a donut? Any help here is greatly appreciated.

 

[DIYorBust]

It may be the photo, but the flange looks much higher than the floor. If the finish floor will be close in height to the flange, I think a hydroseat might be something to consider.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Jadnashua]

What I think that I'd do is to remove the lead all the way to the hub beneath, clean out the hub, get the proper size rubber donut, install a short riser the needed length, and install a new flange on it. You'd want to measure carefully to ensure you've got enough height to make it all work once the finished floor height is set. If there won't be enough room, then you can cut off the cast iron, use a banded coupling to mate it up to a new pvc (or abs, if that's what's used where you live) riser from there, and then install the flange. You can cut the cast iron with a cutoff wheel, and maybe a snap cutter, but on old pipe, that can sometimes shatter the pipe if it's thinned out some. WOrks fine on newer stuff and pipe that hasn't been eaten away, so an abrasive cutter may be safer.

If the lead isn't split, you could try to bend it around a new ring with the holes to mount it to the floor and to hold the closet bolts, but it usually splits when you try to bend it much once it's older and work hardened.

 

[Helper Dave]

I'd try to get all the lead out of there as well. If it's already high, putting a Twist n Set flange into the cast iron might get it at a good height as is.

In my experience, lead comes out of cast iron fairly easily. If you tap at it with a hammer and a big flathead screwdriver, it might just peel away. Otherwise, drill a bunch of holes into it near the cast iron, being careful not to chip the cast iron itself, and maybe you can knock the lead out then after it's swiss cheese. Make sure to peel it all out of the inside of the pipe with hammer and chisel/flathead so the gasket on the flange will seal.

If that doesn't go well, cutting the cast iron somewhere below, and putting PVC up will be your next best option, but it does take more specialized tools to cut that stuff without shattering it.

 

[Reach4]

I think I would fit plywood arcs under the lead edge, and then install either a Danco HydroSeat, or a repair flange to hold the closet bolts. PASCO 21013 and Superior 21015 are repair rings with mounting tabs outside.

If I had more confidence in bending the lead that much without breaking, I would still raise the flooring, and install a brass closet flange meant to work with lead.

 

[lodgera]

Thanks all for the replies. My original plan was to get the lead out and use a donut, but I don’t think there’s enough space between the hub and the subfloor. This is all 3”, so if I had a pvc stub into a donut, I’m pretty sure the new flange hub going around the 3” pvc stub would hit the CI hub.

I think I may try the hydro seat, but I’m thinking I might still have to trim down the lead, but maybe not I’ll have to get a hydro seat and see how far it stands off the finished floor.

only other option as others have mentioned is to cut the CI and use a no hub coupling, but I’d rather avoid that if there’s an easier functional solution.

 

[Reach4]

I think I may try the hydro seat, but I’m thinking I might still have to trim down the lead, but maybe not I’ll have to get a hydro seat and see how far it stands off the finished floor.

The hydroseat feet are intended to be at the height of the finished floor. Build up to make that the case if the feet don't reach the finished floor area.

Do support the underside of the lead. The wax under the hydroseat will not apply a lot of force, but does supply some force during installation.

That lead looks like it is in really good shape.

 

[lodgera]

The hydroseat feet are intended to be at the height of the finished floor. Build up to make that the case if the feet don't reach the finished floor area.

Do support the underside of the lead. The wax under the hydroseat will not apply a lot of force, but does supply some force during installation.

That lead looks like it is in really good shape.

Right, I’m saying I’m worried when I put the hydroseat on the lead the hydroseat feet will not touch the finished floor. So are you suggesting raising the subfloor vs trimming down the lead?

 

[Reach4]

Right, I’m saying I’m worried when I put the hydroseat on the lead the hydroseat feet will not touch the finished floor. So are you suggesting raising the subfloor vs trimming down the lead?

If not raising the subfloor, cut blocks to put under the feet that would be floating. If you have a table saw, that is easy. If not, you would probably need some boards and shims to fine-tune the heights.

You could fill the space with mortar.