Lead closed bend replacement

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Stevebg4

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Hi Everyone,

I am remodeling my bathroom and only left to replace the lead closet bend now, See pictures.

Can someone provide me the right way to remove this old lead closet bend ?

I looked at supplyhouse .com and they have in stock this Charlotte 4" x 16" Service Weight Cast Iron Closet Bend and it is expensive and anyadditional part dneeded to nstall it ?

https://www.supplyhouse.com/Charlotte-01683-4-x-16-Service-Weight-Cast-Iron-Closet-Bend

They have two other another Cast Iron Closet Bends below and any additional parts needed to install too ?

https://www.supplyhouse.com/Charlotte-01749-4-x-16-Service-Weight-Cast-Iron-Closet-Bend-w-Hub

https://www.supplyhouse.com/Charlotte-01660-3-x-4-x-16-Service-Weight-Cast-Iron-Closet-Bend


Which is better to install ?

Any other suggestions for different closet bend mfg and model ,perhaps PVC ?

thanks

20210510_201421.jpg
 

Reach4

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PVC and Fernco Donut would be cheaper and I think easier. I am not a pro. Fernco Donut would be a good search term for the search box above.

I suggest you will want a digital caliper,with inside jaws, to measure the inside of the hub after you get the lead out.

What is the OD of the lead near the cast iron hub?
 

Stevebg4

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Is this what I need to do to remove the cast iron lead joint ?
Any other tips and tricks without heating it ?



thanks
 

Stevebg4

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btw, when I measure the OD of the lead near the cast iron hub, it about 4.4 inches
 

Terry

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I also drill out the lead and pry it out.

drill-out-leak-01.jpg


I use liquid soap on the new parts and donut to make it slide in easier. And a 2x4 that I can hammer on, not the pipe or fitting.
If there are several donuts at the store, I pick up what they have in my size. Some cast is a little different depending on the year.
 

Stevebg4

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thanks Terry, when I slide in the Fernco donut with some liquid soap and hammer in with 2x4 into the hub THEN do I glue or just slide in a small cut piece of 4" ABS or PVC pipe into the Fernco donut ?
 

Stevebg4

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ok and I found this reply below from you on another thread.
Do I need to get a 4x4 ABS 90-DEG ELBOW or a 4 x 3 ABS 90-DEG ELBOW ?
How long of a ABS piece do I need to cut to fit in the Fernco donut ?

If I can, I pick up several different donuts to see which one works best with what I'm working with.
I have better luck with donuts that don't alter the size. If I have a 4" hub, I pick up a 4" donut and use a 4x3 flush bush if I'm need 3" pipe in there.

I do bevel the end of the PVC pipe to help with guiding it in. And yes on the 2x4 that you can hammer on.

replace_lead_bend.jpg


thanks
 

Reach4

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If you want to run 3 inch into the Donut, you could put in a 3x4 closet bend. This one has the input the same size as a 4 inch pipe, and can accept an outside or inside 4-inch closet flange.

index.php


This one has a hub on top:

index.php


I would consider a 4 inch outside compression flange if you want an easy do-over. Glue flanges are cheaper and are really good for the experienced people who get things right the first time.

Some of the things discussed on https://terrylove.com/forums/index.php?threads/4-x3-closet-elbow-too-low-on-remodel.79072/ may be useful.
 
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Stevebg4

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thanks reach4, which is preferred and easier for DIYer like me with either the 3x4 closet bend with no hub (part 330) vs 3x4 closet bend with hub (part no 329) ?

thanks
 

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Reach4

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thanks reach4, which is preferred and easier for DIYer like me with either the 3x4 closet bend with no hub (part 330) vs 3x4 closet bend with hub (part no 329) ?
If the rise is enough with the 330, I would go that route. If you have to go higher, I would go 329.

For a compression closet flange, I would consider "code blue". But there are certainly other good choices.
 

Terry

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If you're going PVC or ABS out of there, I would use a medium 90 and then a hub flange on the riser up to the floor.
If using 3" pipe and fittings, which is plenty, then if you have a 4" cast hub, a 4x3 flush flush to reduce down to 3".
 

Reach4

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What is a test cap used for on this 3" x 4" PVC DWV 90° Street Closet Elbow
https://www.supplyhouse.com/Spears-P330X-342-3-x-4-PVC-DWV-90-Street-Closet-Elbow
Some or many projects have to be tested, usually by filling with water, to test for leaks.

A test cap would block the water until the test cap is removed -- maybe with a hammer or prying. There are other ways to block flow during the test, such as Cherne test balls. https://www.oatey.com/products/pneumatic-test-balls



Can I I install it with this closet flange, 3" Hub x 4" Inside, Push-Tite Gasket Closet Flange w/ Swivel St. Steel Ring , so that to avoid gluing and make a mistake ?
https://www.pexuniverse.com/sioux-chief-push-tite-gasket-closet-flange-887-gpm
Yes.
 

Stevebg4

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thanks for the info, O think I will go with 4x 3 fernco donut, 4x3 flush bushing, hub x hub 4 x3 part 329 medium 90 elbow , and I assume I can cut a another PVC riser piece to add more height and then glue it, correct ?
upload_2021-5-12_7-34-17.png
 

Reach4

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Yes.

There are different depths.
C40420* 4 pipe x 2 depth
C40430* 4 pipe x 3 depth
C40440* 4 pipe x 4 depth
C40425* 4 pipe x 2 depth has test cap https://www.homedepot.com/p/JONES-S...-Closet-Flange-with-Test-Cap-C40425/313740740
C40453* 4 pipe x 3 depth has test cap
There is also an offset 2-inch deep version that is offset 1 inch.
There are other variations...

https://www.homedepot.com/p/JONES-S...-on-Cast-Iron-Closet-Flange-C40-420/100175841 seems mispriced too low, but there is a difference between the part number listed and the description.

I don't know just what the 2 inches (etc) refers to. It might be the distance from the floor level down to the top of the pipe, but it might be something else. Measure the actual part before cutting the pvc. Let us know what you find.
 
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Stevebg4

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thanks reach4, I think I will go with C40430* 4 pipe x 3 depth and I assume after I put my plywood sublfoor and then tile then install this flange and tighten the bolts ?
 

Reach4

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thanks reach4, I think I will go with C40430* 4 pipe x 3 depth and I assume after I put my plywood sublfoor and then tile then install this flange and tighten the bolts ?
Step 1 will be to get the flange in hand, and study that. You will leave clearance around, but will also have good places for the wood screws (or other anchors of your choice).

But yes, your order of construction would be right.
 
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