Point 1. absolutely...I will adjust, I have two connections before the vent...not good.1. On top bathroom, join the lavatory drain farther upstream so that you don't have two things upstream of the lav drain.
2. On top bathroom, I presume darker line is lav drainage. That drain path does not make sense to me. Can you join the lav drainage with the shower drain before you hit the toilet? That could be via the lav drain going over the 3 inch, or the 3 inch being moved lower in the drawing.
3. Not important, but I would think the lower lav drain would pass under the floor toward the red, and could cross at an angle, rather than following walls.
I may well be missing something.
I think his number 2 was meant to say lower bathroom...at least that was the only way I could make sense of it. Then he would be saying to tie in to the shower like you had drawn.1) Yes, the lav drain is the vent for the WC and the shower, so the lav drain needs to hit the individual WC or the individual shower first. Then the combined lav/fixture drain can hit the other individual fixture drain.
2) I don't follow Reach4's comment, I don't see the issue (besides 1). But Reach4 makes a good point that if desired you can have the lav/shower above the WC.
3) Also not following. The light green is the above floor trap arm, the dark green is the below floor drain. Looks fine to me.
Exactly...thanks for clearing it up.Light green = trap arm above the floor. Dark green = lav drain below the floor. At the transition is a san-tee. Dashed blue is dry vent above the lav flood rims.
On the lower lav, the wall behind is brick and can't take any drains or vents. So the trap arm goes to the right side to reach a framed out area. On the upper lav, the only reason the trap arm goes to right behind the lav is to get to a more convenient location to enter the floor system, given the need for the lav drain to hit the WC or the shower first, before those two drains combine.
Reach4, There is a legend at the top of the image you may have missed.Got it. I thought light green was vent, rather than trap arm.
Yes. I missed the legend.Reach4, There is a legend at the top of the image you may have missed.
Yes, the IPC only requires a 1-1/2" dry vent for a WC on a 3" drain, and a 1-1/2" wet vent can carry 1 DFU. Add a second lav, or a shower or tub, before the WC, and the minimum wet vent size goes up to 2" at the point where the extra fixtures come in.Even to wet-vent a toilet?
He is wet venting the toilets. I think you are saying that the "page 12" ofYes, the IPC only requires a 1-1/2" dry vent for a WC on a 3" drain, and a 1-1/2" wet vent can carry 1 DFU. Add a second lav, or a shower or tub, before the WC, and the minimum wet vent size goes up to 2" at the point where the extra fixtures come in.
Correct. If the two lavs came in at separate heights, say, then the wet vent between the lavs (carrying just 1 DFU) could be 1-1/2". And the wet vent below both lavs (carrying 2 DFUs) would need to be 2", as shown.I think you are saying that the "page 12" of
https://www.iccsafe.org/wp-content/uploads/20-18927_GR_2021_Plumbing_Venting_Brochure.pdf example only needs 2 inch because there are two lavs feeding the wet vent?
I missed all this yesterday as I was busy doing demo. So if I read this right I am OK as I am with the 1.5 for both lav drains and vents since they will both be connecting to WC drains (I have not posted the picture yet but I switched the entry point on the upper lav to be before the shower).Correct. If the two lavs came in at separate heights, say, then the wet vent between the lavs (carrying just 1 DFU) could be 1-1/2". And the wet vent below both lavs (carrying 2 DFUs) would need to be 2", as shown.
Well the ones where I showed the short 45 is my attempt at showing the combo that I intend to roll up 45 degrees.Looks OK to me. You've drawn most of your combos by showing a short 45 segment, but missed that detail on the tub drain where it joins the lav that is wet venting it.
1) Not sure what you mean by inline cleanout? If you use a trap adapter at the wall under the lav, that should let you snake the whole lav drain, including through the san-tee where the drain turns down to go below the floor. But if you mean put in an upright wye or combo, rolled towards the wall, with a pipe extension that rises into the wall to a cleanout accessible above the floor, sure you could do that.
2) Two 45s are good for a drop in elevation on a horizontal line. If it's a large drop or there are obstructions, you could use two 90s--the top one can be a quarter bend, but the bottom one should be a LT90.
This is awkward, but...
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