Laundry sink replacement questions

[G60]

Hi guys. This is Gary.

So I am reconfiguring my utility closet. It currently has laundry sink, AC, and water heater. this is in a tall townhouse I own in entirety. I rent out the basement unit and the first floor unit to tenants and have the second and third floor as my home. The utility room is the third floor.
for a variety of reasons concerning the configuration of this room and utilizing space (and moving a front loader as closet to the bearing wall/joist point as possible, I wish to remove the utility sink and use a standpipe/water supply box (eg oatay).

I had worked summers with a plumber when I was young many years ago (ok three decades) and feel comfortable opening the walls and running and working with copper, and have done repair work with pvc and am familiar with that.


So here is the rub: when I opened the wall to take a look at the 1.5" pvc draining the current utility sink used for laundry drainage: it goes to another 1.5" vertical which is vented on its own to the roof and whcih runs vertically down abut 30 feet fully as 1.5" pvc.

sink, p trap under it outside the wall, enters wall to a wye and to a 45 foot vertical run of 1.5" inner diameter that terminates about 12 feet above as a roof vent, and runs over 30 feet straight down from the laundry room floor with no pipes joined to it before entering the main drain.

so you can guess the question: Is it very likely for me to have problems if I run a 1.5 standpipe other wise to coded setup in terms of height, p trap etc with almost no horizontal elements other than the trap? the larger front loaders tend to use only about 5 gallons at a time and my math tells me the 1.5 alone will hold about 12 gallons. I do realize a successor owner could use a top loader but it is only a two bedroom anyway and I doubt they would have a large capacity top loader and all machines are only using less and less water even though they I do realize they pump at a high gpm.

My other option would be to try and find a very narrow very deep utility tub. Do you guys know a maker? googling is crazy I cant find any. what I would like in that would be 24 wide but only projecting 12 or 14 inches from the wall plus deeper than normal ege 18 to 20 inches deep. (I there are several space configuration issues and I need to get the washer to within 16 inches of the back wall with either a standpipe or utility sink, also since I am looking at front loaders I would like to get as close to the point of where the joists rest on the bearing wall.)

I took a look at my sisters house and she has a 1.5 inch standpipe and never has had problems. And mine is going into a 30' vertical drop.

Any ideas?

 

[hj]

drain

Your front loader is NOT going to fall through the floor, no matter where you put it. The 30' drop would only be an "advantage" if the trap were not vented. The rate of discharge is more important than the amount of water, and a top loader has to fill with water so the only way to use less water is to make the tub smaller, but the tendency is to make them larger, not smaller. At this point there is no way to tell if your washer will work with the current drain, until you install it and see what happens. The obvious answer to your sink question is, "Why would anyone make one in the first place?" You might be the ONLY person who EVER needs one and that would make it very expensive to set up a production line for a single sink.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Geniescience]

is there a clear question in this post? I couldn't find it.

Some people buy salad bowls, drill a hole, and call it a vessel sink. It's often been done. One day, welding with stainless steel, you can make the funny shape you want. E.g. http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/10130845 Rundel Laundry bin. Buy it and have it modified by a stainless welder.

Here's a sink 25" deep. http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/60076233 Numerar. Counter built-in.

A 1.5" standpipe works too.

 

[G60]

Your front loader is NOT going to fall through the floor, no matter where you put it..

I am not at all concerned with it "falling through the floor" I am rationally concerned with the VERY widespread issue of damage caused by vibration resonance of these machines when not placed on a slab. 3 feet from the joists support could double the resonance compared to one foot.

I have never heard of a washing machine falling through the floor, but I have seen dozens (and read reports of huge numbers) of people with problems of wallboard nails popping throughout the house and cracks caused by people who put these high downward g force machines in the middle of a structure.

I have the ability to place the machine in the most stable part of the floor , right next to the main bearing wall, if I can solve the utility sink issue. There are also other issues of space imitations in the utility room as well that will be solved.

I am not the only one looking for this solution in attempt to google a small deep sink I find a number of people asking for exactly the same reasons.

To me asking on a forum with lots of plumbers who may have access to the more obscure products is 100% SENSIBLE.

As far as installing a 1.5 diameter standpipe, it seems there are literally millions of people with it from pre-new code installs, and the problems are rare.

I am certain it will handle the five gallon dump of a front loader as well as my current utility sink handles the 40 gallons dump from my current top loader.

My main concern is with not screwing a successor owner of the home who could place a 17 GPM 40 gallon machine there if something happened to prevent me removing it, and putting back the utility sink before selling.

Some people buy salad bowls, drill a hole, and call it a vessel sink.
A 1.5" standpipe works too.

It looks like I will be able to get a 20 gallon very deep and very narrow (8") acrylic aquarium for $30 and this will solve my problem, Just have to tap out the 1.5 drain in the bottom and wall mount it with a couple of legs

 

[Geniescience]

.... to get a 20 gallon very deep and very narrow (8") acrylic aquarium ... have to tap out the 1.5 drain in the bottom and wall mount it with a couple of legs

Cut a 20g tank in half, across the middle. Consider that. A bare tank, not a hot water tank (water heater). Just an auxiliary holding tank.

 

[G60]

Cut a 20g tank in half, across the middle. Consider that. A bare tank, not a hot water tank (water heater). Just an auxiliary holding tank.

my caclulatios are that I need 4700 cubic inches level to hold 20 gallons, whcih should be sufficient for any size and even fast gpm washer, and the well plumbed and vented 1.5 line I currently have.

I can get one that is 8" wide and 25" long x 25" deep which should hold 21 gallons with some tolerance at the top. that will allow me to get within 10" of the wall. I will nail a 2x4 into the floor behind the washer overflow tray to reduce chance of impact on the custom drain sink.

A friend who has a fish maintenance business is going to build it for me with methods and material he uses to build 200 gallon tanks