Laundry Advice on Re-route Drain and Vent

[michaelmew]

My wife wants me to convert our side by side W/D to stackable. No big deal, right? Just move the plumbing and electricity. Unfortunately, the original builders didn't leave me anything to work with before going into the slab. The existing tee is already reduced to 1 1/2" for the vent. So, I believe this means I need to re-route the vent as shown (in blue) so that I can tie-in with the existing 2" waste as shown (in red).

Stop me if I'm wrong, but assuming I'm on the right path, my questions are:
1. Is there a minimum vertical drop coming out of the washer drain outlet box before the p-trap?
2. Is there a min/max horizontal leg of the p-trap before it drops again?
3. For the (2) new waste elbows, regular 90 or long sweep 90? Does it even make a difference?
4. Will it vent and drain as shown?
5. For the (2) new vent elbows, regular 90 or long sweep 90?

The other question I have involves tapping into the existing gas line, which I will also be doing. Can someone tell me definitively whether or not a sediment trap is required on my new gas dryer? I am reading conflicting information. I am in Texas.

Thanks!
-mm

 

[michaelmew]

bump. any thoughts on this? trying to install this weekend. thanks in advance.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Terry]

Any vent for a p-trap and trap arm needs to be on the top side of the fitting.

 

[michaelmew]

Thanks Terry. That's a very nice looking rough-in. Now, Let's say that you are doing renovation work and saw that behind the wall. The homeowner wants the washer supply and drain on the left side of the sink. How would you do that, because I believe that is my situation. In your example, it looks to me like it's all 2" but I could be wrong. In my image, the drain is 2" but the vent is 1 1/2". I could drop down into the 1 1/2" from above, but I thought going around with two elbows would be preferential. If it's the elbow route, would I run 2" for as much as possible, then use a fitting to go down to 1 1/2" as close to the existing (rear-facing) clean out as possible?

Am I making any sense? Thanks again!

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[michaelmew]

I feel like these are my only two options (the grey is just to indicate existing). Is either one permitted by code? If both are, which one is preferable? Am I overlooking another solution?
I dislike #1 because its a lot of extra travel and the vent seems odd. Terry, is this what you were referring to in your previous comment?
I dislike #2 because I can't change the 1.5" bushing, which I imagine could create a drainage backup. But, it's more direct and the vent seems to make sense. Although, the trap arm would be very short.

Thanks!
-mm

1) Standpipe to the washer is too short. The vent for the sink can't go horizontal until it's six inches higher than the flood level of the washer box.
2) The washer will siphon the sink drain. It's not separately vented.

 

[Jadziedzic]

You can use a Ram Bit (aka "socket saver") to remove the 1-1/2" bushing from the clean-out, and then plumb the washer box with 2". I assume you'd plan to cap the old 2" drain connection leading to the left in picture 2.

 

[michaelmew]

You can use a Ram Bit (aka "socket saver") to remove the 1-1/2" bushing from the clean-out, and then plumb the washer box with 2". I assume you'd plan to cap the old 2" drain connection leading to the left in picture 2.

Yes, sorry, missed the cap. I'm not familiar with the Ram Bit. I'll see what I can find online. Sounds promising. Thanks!

 

[Reach4]

I dislike #1 because its a lot of extra travel and the vent seems odd.

#1 is no good. No vent for the trap arm for the p-trap.

I'm not familiar with the Ram Bit. I'll see what I can find online.

I think with the rambit, you would saw the cleanout horizontally a bit above the bottom. The 2 inch rambit has a centering guide disk make to go inside of 2 inch pipe. You could not use that with the top of the cleanout due to the reducer bushing. If I tried such a cut with a hacksaw, I think I would protect the fitting below, during the cut, with a worm gear hose clamp to avoid sawing mistakes.

It is possible that you could get a special guide disk separately, to work with the 2 inch cutter. I don't know. Maybe you could find or modify a washer. However the cutter is not made for cutting such a thick piece (the bushing which is much thicker than the pipe), I don't think that would work.

I have not used a Rambit nor a Socket Saver.

 

[michaelmew]

I think with the rambit, you would saw the cleanout horizontally a bit above the bottom. The 2 inch rambit has a centering guide disk make to go inside of 2 inch pipe. You could not use that with the top of the cleanout due to the reducer bushing. If I tried such a cut with a hacksaw, I think I would protect the fitting below, during the cut, with a worm gear hose clamp to avoid sawing mistakes...
...However the cutter is not made for cutting such a thick piece (the bushing which is much thicker than the pipe), I don't think that would work.

That's a good point I didn't consider. I read on another post about someone cutting a fitting with an oscillating tool from the outside and then broke the rest off but left a short stub of the existing inner pipe. They primed and glued a replacement fitting over the existing stuff. If I understood you correctly, this would be the solution after cutting the cleanout right above the bell.

-mm

 

[michaelmew]

#1 is dead. How about this modification to it?

-mm

The sink on 3 needs an AAV for it to work.
Vents are above the trap arm, not below.

 

[Reach4]

Works fine, but it would also be fine with a cap/plug instead of an AAV, I think. I am not a plumber.

Lower left elbow (bend) needs to be long sweep. The other two don't need that, but it never hurts.

 

[michaelmew]

Works fine, but it would also be fine with a cap/plug instead of an AAV, I think. I am not a plumber.

Lower left elbow (bend) needs to be long sweep. The other two don't need that, but it never hurts.

Cool, thanks. Just to clarify, the intent was for a cap and NOT AAV, my scale got a little out of whack ;-). Also, there's no sink, it's just a washer/dryer, so the vent is exclusive to that purpose.

-mm

 

[Terry]

The sink on 3 needs an AAV for it to work.
Vents are above the trap arm, not below.

 

[michaelmew]

The sink on 3 needs an AAV for it to work.
Vents are above the trap arm, not below.

Thanks Terry. There is no sink, just the washing machine. Any reason not to just cap it off above the existing clean out?


-mm

 

[Terry]

Thanks Terry. There is no sink, just the washing machine. Any reason not to just cap it off above the existing clean out?
-mm

If you only have the washer, then it can be capped above the cleanout.

 

[michaelmew]

This solution worked great for me. I am washing and drying clothes without incident. Thanks everyone!


-mm