Kitchen Sink Pipe Configuration - 2 P Traps?

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Joelny

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Hello everyone,
So I just bought my first house last month and have been reading up on plumbing. I recently replaced the garbage disposal under the kitchen sink using the existing configuration. As I was doing so, I noticed that the piping seemed abnormal. Basically, there are two p-traps in sequential order, one small diameter and one larger close to the wall. I have attached a photo for reference. My understanding is that this is not acceptable, but that's as far as I get. My guess is that I remove the smaller P-trap and feed both sides of the sink into the larger one in the back; is this correct? Any tips on how to proceed? Thank you!

joelny-01.jpg
 
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Dj2

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Fix it.

Cancel one of the traps (the one closer to the wall).

You can get a trap that has 1-1/2" in and 2" out.
 

FullySprinklered

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The bottom p-trap is largely a glue-up situation except for the compression nut. You may be able to drop all that other stuff and rotate that joint and point it more toward the line joining the disposer and the left side sink drain and try to incorporate a center-outlet drain, with maybe a couple of slip-joint extension tubes to make all work out. You may need to buy another trap like that since the glue-up stuff you have will have to be trashed if it doesn't work for you.

Go to HD and buy a basket full of parts that you think you might need and have some fun with it. It's a puzzle. The parts are cheap.
 

Joelny

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Thanks for all the replies! As for Terry's suggestion, if I remove the lower, larger p-trap and use the other directly under the sink, I'm not sure how to deal with the existing wall piping. Specifically, the larger diameter pipe close to the wall enters the cabinet and then immediately has a 90 degree turn downward. There is only 3/8" or so of room before the elbow and it is glued in place. If I am to remove this p-trap, how should I deal with this downward-facing elbow? Is 1/4"-3/8" enough to glue on another piece? Anything going into the drywall is certainly beyond my expertise.

Or should I keep this larger p-trap as fullysprinklered suggests and make it work? Thanks again for your replies - much appreciated!

Webp.net-compress-image (1).jpg
 

Reach4

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both traps appear to be the same pipe size, and I would eliminate the one at the wall.
Even though the one at the wall is glued in?

Suppose he used a curved disposal tailpiece (B) and fed into a center outlet baffle tee (C)?
white-everbilt-drains-drain-assemblies-c9123ab-e1_145.jpg


The output of that would go to the trap (D) with some kind of elbow. He would pivot the pieces of the trap (E etc) for best placement. He would maintain downward slope to the trap.

disposer-piping-4.jpg




Incidentally the disposal (A) seems cocked. Is that just an illusion?
 
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Joelny

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both traps appear to be the same pipe size, and I would eliminate the one at the wall.

hj, the p-trap closer to the wall is actually 2" in diameter, while the other directly under the sink is 1-1/2". What would be the best way to eliminate the one from the wall given that it is glued in? I assume I would have to saw the p-trap pieces off to eliminate the 90-degree turn down, but then I am left with very little space (1/4") to add on existing pipe.

Thanks!
 

Joelny

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Even though the one at the wall is glued in?

Suppose he used a curved disposal tailpiece (B) and fed into a center outlet baffle tee (C)?

The output of that would go to the trap (D) with some kind of elbow. He would pivot the pieces of the trap (E etc) for best placement. He would maintain downward slope to the trap.

Incidentally the disposal (A) seems cocked. Is that just an illusion?


Reach4, I do have that piece B that came with the disposal that can be used. Your illustration seems to make sense given that the downward elbow of part E is glued firmly in place. The disposal is cocked a bit since the drain holes in either side of the sink are slightly different lengths away from the wall.

Thanks so much guys! I'm grateful for all of these quick responses.
 

Terry

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I have a RamBit on hand and can drill out the fitting at the wall. After that I treat it as a new installation.
Yes you can reuse the old 1.5" p-trap at the wall and use tubular to pick up the basin and disposer.
 

Reach4

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The disposal is cocked a bit since the drain holes in either side of the sink are slightly different lengths away from the wall.
I did not follow that, but if the flange fits smoothly and leak-free in the bottom of the sink bowl, that's good.

You may not want to use the curved-down tailpiece out of the disposal. It could work out better to connect that existing output to the center-output baffle tee. It depends on the heights of stuff. Slip stuff is nice in that you can fiddle with it. You don't have to get it right the first time you hook it up. When you glue, you need to get it right.

When things are working well, follow up with a photo.
 
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