Kitchen Drain Re-routing... Help please.

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zaius

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I am currently remodelling my kitchen and would like to re-route my kitchen drain. I am a rookie in terms of plumbing knowledge.

My existing kitchen drain is 1-1/2" copper and goes through a kitchen base cabinet, rendering that space pretty much useless. I will like to place a cabinet right where the existing drain is. The sink will be at the same location as before.

View attachment 37298 View attachment 37302 View attachment 37303

I would like to have the horizontal run in the basement, and just cap the copper pipe in the kitchen.
View attachment 37296

I have the following questions:

1) I am planning on running ABS similar to this. Do I have the correct parts? Will I have enough ventilation? (I will cap the ends of the wyes)
View attachment 37300

2) Is this layout ok for under the sink? (I took this photo from IKEA).

View attachment 37297

3) Can MPS be enough to sweat and solder a 1-1/2" CU fitting onto the existing copper run? Any tricks or hints? I just have a standard flint start(?) nozzle.

Thanks. Any help, direction or guidance is greatly appreciated.
 

Stuff

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It is not allowed by most codes to do what you are proposing. What you need to do is cut out some drywall and route the drain horizontally through a couple of studs and then out into the base of the sink cabinet. You probably will need to replace the san-t that the copper currently connects to. Use 2" pipe.
 

Terry

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For venting, you either need to vent off the top of a santee back to the existing vent, or install with an AAV.
The Ikea picture causes the trap to siphon and allow the sewer gas into the home. No plumber would install plumbing that way.
Venting takes place above the trap arm, not below.
 

zaius

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Thanks guys. I don't think I have much room against the wall, but I'll check. It's not that simple working with a plaster + gypsum mixed wall.
 

Stuff

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No, not easy to do it right but now is the time. Most of the drywall work will be hidden by cabinets which takes some of the pressure off.

With copper and probably galvanized and cast iron involved you might want to call in a pro for this.

Terry's suggestion of an AAV would follow most of your first idea but it is something that is not allowed everywhere. Do you have building permits and inspections with this project? If so ask the inspector what is allowed.
 

zaius

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Thanks guys. I think I'll remove some of the drywall tonight to see what I'm dealing with.

Would this design work? I am going with Terry's suggestion of venting from the top of the sanitee/trap arm. At least that what I think he's suggesting. :oops:
 

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Stuff

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Your drawing looks good but there is a twist. The vent needs to be 6" above flood level before it goes horizontal which leads to issues with framing around that window. See a discussion: https://terrylove.com/forums/index.php?threads/non-island-loop-vent.54366/#post-398153

Something like below is more common. In your case you would swap vent and drain locations going to basement (also swap laundry tub and clean-out connections). Not sure about your local codes but with a 1.5" sink trap you should be allowed to go 6' before seeing the vent.
5-chic-back-venting-kitchen-sink-and-dishwasher.jpeg
 
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