Keeping the main dry to solder new valve

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Hey There,

I am taking on a project, where this requires me to first turn off the water to our 5 unit building. I am needing to replace and relocate one of the unit’s main water valve, not the main for the whole building. This requires us to cut into the 1 ¼” or 2” copper main which runs through each Condo, where they all have their own tie in to the main. I can’t tell exactly the main's size, traditionally I think 1 1/4th is used? It's clearly larger than 1” from peeking in at it.

My hope is that we can dry the cut main pipe enough so the main 1 1/4” copper line will get hot enough to take a solder (using map gas). Basically cut the main line, T it off and run a 1” main ball valve into our unit. There may be unforeseen variables when trying to stop the main water line to ensure total dryness. So I just don’t know how this will go? The master main ball valve has never been shut off to the building in probably decades?

Help me plan a few contingencies.

My hope and Goal is to put a T in with a 1” ball valve in an hours time so the rest of the building can get water back. Sounds doable to me, but I don’t now squat.

However, if the main water line to the building gets shut off and a little bit of water continue to trickle, this will prevent us to solder, I have not yet fully considered the options we are then left with, and the time will be ticking? tick tock...

The whole bread trick seems a bit ghetto, but I suppose I would try that? Something I will consider?

I don’t want to use a shark bite fitting on the main line as this will all get sealed up in the wall and I would feel much better with soldering rather than praying a rubber seal holds up over time. Would compression fitting work here? I don't know much about that as an idea?

The monster pro press for a main 1 1”4 line seems much, as I am not sure how well this holds over time? Really would love to get a solder in there. Plus, renting this for one joint seems over indulgent?

This is all time sensitive while the water is off to the residents, so trying to go over the diff scenarios now, rather when the pipe is cut and folks water is off. Hopefully this is all seamless, but you never know.
I will be hiring a plumber but the amount of work we have done or re-done work only later learning how bad the work is, I still want to get a since of how to do this. Hope that does not sound rude, just burned too many times, so I want to learn as much as I can.

After thinking more about this, seems like bread could be a good Plan B to fall on.
Thoughts?
 

Reach4

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This requires us to cut into the 1 ¼” or 2” copper main which runs through each Condo, where they all have their own tie in to the main.
I think that your next step is to find what size pipe you will be cutting. A digital caliper will let you measure the OD.

Are you cutting 5 branch lines, and hoping that will be done in an hour? Sounds improbable to me. Even and hour each sounds hard. Were you just putting in one valve for the building, and then hit the units later?

Compression sounds like the ticket. Have long wrenches, because in my limited experience, compression takes a lot more torque than you would think.
 
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That is interesting, I have not done much research on compression fittings. So I can start to look into it.
I Just cut into the ceiling to get a good look. The pipe reads 1 1/4" L type as I anticipated.
Not sure what you mean by a "5 branch line"? But I think the answer is yes? it is the main line that each unit branches into. Kinda like a big manifold? But 100' long and each unit ties in maybe every 20-40 feet. Maybe I can explain it this way. One long 1 1/4" pipe running 100' East to West.
All I am doing is repositioning my tie in. So I will cap the existing one and cut into a new section 15' upstream which is the west side of the garage rather than the east side.
So imagine my main valve on one side of the garage and I need it all the way on the other side. Does that make since.
All while my neighbors water is turned off. If this will take more than an hour, what is your prediction.
Also, to use a compressing joint/valve? Doesn't at least one end need to be soldered? Going to look more into this.
BTW, I don't see any existing compression fittings or valves. But I will look into it. Thanks
 

Reach4

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Compression ball valves in 1 inch are easy enough to find, but I am not finding them in 1.25.
 
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