In working on an unrelated toilet problem, I noticed my basement toilet was not particularly tight to the floor. By the time I was done "fixing" it, the wax ring was leaking.
After removing the toilet, I found I had the dreaded oval offset toilet flange. Mine has "Jones Manufacturing Company" on the PVC. I noticed that at least one Johni Bolt slot was cracked, and I was concerned about getting a wax ring that would fit correctly.
I found a few resources on this site:
https://terrylove.com/forums/index.php?threads/damaged-oval-offset-flange.55347/#post-407436
https://terrylove.com/forums/index.php?threads/oval-offset-flange.43517/#post313009
https://terrylove.com/forums/index....t-flange-how-do-i-put-a-wax-ring-on-it.77927/
https://terrylove.com/forums/index....ax-ring-on-a-toilet-with-a-offset-flange.651/
Notice in the last link, a user named Plumbs Away recommends trying a Sani-Seal (foreshadowing).
First thing, I needed to fix the pulled up bolt slots. The left side was cracked underneath (hence the loose toilet), and the right side was slightly bulged. This flange is poured in my basement concrete floor, so replacement was less than desirable.
I measured the "free space" under my toilet (American Standard Cadet Ovation) and found that I had about 0.600" of height (above finish floor) to work with. This was enough to use a couple repair plates on top of the flange, and screw them down using 3/16" tap-cons. I modified the repair plates to relieve the "oval" part of the flange. Here is what the plates looked like while cutting.
After installing the reinforcements for the bolts, I needed a seal. Normal "better than wax" seals are not big enough to cover the "thin" part of the flange in back. The Sani-Seal looked large, so I drove across town to an Ace that had them in stock. These cover nearly the entire flange, and in this case, cover that hard to seal area in back. Here is a picture for reference:
I did bias the seal (and therefore the Johni bolts) about 1/4" toward the rear side of the flange to make sure the thin area got contact with the seal.
After bolting the toilet down, I notice no leaks and no smell. So far so good.
I wanted to post this in hopes it helps someone else who runs into a similar situation either with a damaged flange, or with these oddball oval closet flanges.
After removing the toilet, I found I had the dreaded oval offset toilet flange. Mine has "Jones Manufacturing Company" on the PVC. I noticed that at least one Johni Bolt slot was cracked, and I was concerned about getting a wax ring that would fit correctly.
I found a few resources on this site:
https://terrylove.com/forums/index.php?threads/damaged-oval-offset-flange.55347/#post-407436
https://terrylove.com/forums/index.php?threads/oval-offset-flange.43517/#post313009
https://terrylove.com/forums/index....t-flange-how-do-i-put-a-wax-ring-on-it.77927/
https://terrylove.com/forums/index....ax-ring-on-a-toilet-with-a-offset-flange.651/
Notice in the last link, a user named Plumbs Away recommends trying a Sani-Seal (foreshadowing).
First thing, I needed to fix the pulled up bolt slots. The left side was cracked underneath (hence the loose toilet), and the right side was slightly bulged. This flange is poured in my basement concrete floor, so replacement was less than desirable.
I measured the "free space" under my toilet (American Standard Cadet Ovation) and found that I had about 0.600" of height (above finish floor) to work with. This was enough to use a couple repair plates on top of the flange, and screw them down using 3/16" tap-cons. I modified the repair plates to relieve the "oval" part of the flange. Here is what the plates looked like while cutting.
After installing the reinforcements for the bolts, I needed a seal. Normal "better than wax" seals are not big enough to cover the "thin" part of the flange in back. The Sani-Seal looked large, so I drove across town to an Ace that had them in stock. These cover nearly the entire flange, and in this case, cover that hard to seal area in back. Here is a picture for reference:
I did bias the seal (and therefore the Johni bolts) about 1/4" toward the rear side of the flange to make sure the thin area got contact with the seal.
After bolting the toilet down, I notice no leaks and no smell. So far so good.
I wanted to post this in hopes it helps someone else who runs into a similar situation either with a damaged flange, or with these oddball oval closet flanges.
