It's Christmas and my Submersible Pump Died

Users who are viewing this thread

Eddiek2000

New Member
Messages
7
Reaction score
0
Points
1
Location
Southern MD, USA
House is 19+ years old. Pump runs hard all summer watering the lawn (not cycling). Anyway, I woke up this AM to no water and the bladder tank empty. Checked breaker, good. Checked voltage at pressure switch, good (both sides with switch closed). Checked voltage at well head, good. No sound from well or on poly line entering house. Tried cycling breaker a few times and no joy.

Guessing the motor/pump died. The Pressure tank has a sticker calling out a Franklin 2445089003 230V 1HP. Min flow is blank. County is closed until tomorrow when I can get the well report.

So my question is what is a good replacement motor/pump? Is Franklin still good? Weather is gonna be good for the next few days so I would like to change it out myself. Doesn't seem too awful.

Any other insights?
 

WorthFlorida

Clinical Trail on a Cancer Drug Started 1/31/24. ☹
Messages
5,726
Solutions
1
Reaction score
982
Points
113
Location
Orlando, Florida
It lasted 19 years! You didn’t mention how deep the well is and it may not be possible to pull it out yourself. Call on a local well/ pump dealer, they usually stock and only recommend a few different pumps that gives then the least trouble. Warranty work cost everyone so they look at quality before cost.
 

Reach4

Well-Known Member
Messages
38,794
Reaction score
4,411
Points
113
Location
IL
I am not a pro. Replacing with the same model motor sounds good unless the pump is in a 4 inch steel casing or in case the pump end has a problem.. I find that motor model number. In that case, you could consider going to a 3 inch pump to avoid the pump getting stuck.

If this well also provides the water to the house, then get it changed out quickly and pay the $1600 or more to get a new pump installed and going.
 

Eddiek2000

New Member
Messages
7
Reaction score
0
Points
1
Location
Southern MD, USA
OK, so what would cause the pump to fail like this? It is a Franklin motor and Bruiser 7SB10422 pump head.
 

Attachments

  • 20191226_170241 copy.jpg
    20191226_170241 copy.jpg
    79.3 KB · Views: 180

Eddiek2000

New Member
Messages
7
Reaction score
0
Points
1
Location
Southern MD, USA
OK - Got new pump installed and have water, not really as I added sanitizer to well and am waiting to really use water. Did find a strange problem:

Pressure will build to 60 (set cut out) and bounce then immediately drop to 50. Cut in is set to 40 so I have a short cycle problem. Gonna drain tank in AM, check tank pressure for 38 psi and go from there. Pressure tank doesn't seem to be water logged.

Any ideas on this issue?

Oh, and the pump is down about 300+ feet. OMG it was heavy.
 

Valveman

Cary Austin
Staff member
Messages
14,599
Reaction score
1,296
Points
113
Location
Lubbock, Texas
Website
cyclestopvalves.com
I am sorry the pump was heavy because it sounds like the check valve on the pump is faulty. When the pump shuts off at 60 it should stay at 60 until someone uses some water out of the tank.
 

Eddiek2000

New Member
Messages
7
Reaction score
0
Points
1
Location
Southern MD, USA
God I hope not. I will be flushing the chlorine out of the system today and checking bladder pressure. Hopefully during this time whatever is causing this stops. Fingers crossed, otherwise gonna have to pay up. No more free time to be messing with this.
 

Reach4

Well-Known Member
Messages
38,794
Reaction score
4,411
Points
113
Location
IL
OK - Got new pump installed and have water, not really as I added sanitizer to well and am waiting to really use water.
You may want to add vinegar and recirculate the water. https://terrylove.com/forums/index....izing-extra-attention-to-4-inch-casing.65845/ is my sanitizing writeup.

Pressure will build to 60 (set cut out) and bounce then immediately drop to 50. Cut in is set to 50 so I have a short cycle problem. Gonna drain tank in AM, check tank pressure for 38 psi and go from there. Pressure tank doesn't seem to be water logged.
I am not sure how to interpret this. Will the pump stay at 50 for a long period if you don't use water? Or does the cycling occur when you are not using water?

I am thinking that you may have a failing pressure tank, but also you may not have your pressure switch very close to the intake on the pressure tank. Your fast fall could be that the pressure rises to 60 at the pressure switch before the inside of the pressure tank has only reached 50. That could be because of an overly long and restricted path. A tank tee keeps the distance from the pressure switch to the pressure tank short and wide.

Adding air, even to a tank with a leaky diaphragm/bladder, can work around the problem of a failing tank temporarily.
 

LLigetfa

DIYer, not in the trades
Messages
7,497
Reaction score
575
Points
113
Location
NW Ontario, Canada
...but also you may not have your pressure switch very close to the intake on the pressure tank. Your fast fall could be that the pressure rises to 60 at the pressure switch before the inside of the pressure tank has only reached 50. That could be because of an overly long and restricted path. A tank tee keeps the distance from the pressure switch to the pressure tank short and wide...
That would be my guess but a pressure tank without enough air could create a pressure bounce.
 

Eddiek2000

New Member
Messages
7
Reaction score
0
Points
1
Location
Southern MD, USA
Good info. Never knew about the Vinegar, but should have known from my spa maintenance.

Pressure switch and gauge are mounted on/at bladder tank.

Pressure drops immediately at cutout and holds.
 

Reach4

Well-Known Member
Messages
38,794
Reaction score
4,411
Points
113
Location
IL
Good. So the pump is not the problem.

It may be that the path between the switch and tank interior are partially obstructed by solids. I would connect a hose to the drain valve that is at the tank, and empty (pump is off) and refill the tank several times. You would want to run the other end of the hose to a place where the chlorinated water will not kill off your grass. You don't want to heavily dose your septic tank with chlorine. It can take some.

Another test of interest would be to turn off the pump when the water shuts off and you are not using water. With the valve to the rest of the house closed, measure how much water comes out of the drain valve. Par would be about 1/8 of the nominal tank size, I think.
 

LLigetfa

DIYer, not in the trades
Messages
7,497
Reaction score
575
Points
113
Location
NW Ontario, Canada
Pressure switch and gauge are mounted on/at bladder tank...
Can you post a pic of it? Is it a tank Tee or just a collection of fittings? You might want to disassemble it and clean out the innards as I suspect friction loss between the were the pressure switch riser tube is and the tank. I had that exact same issue where iron buildup constricted the tank inlet.
 

Eddiek2000

New Member
Messages
7
Reaction score
0
Points
1
Location
Southern MD, USA
No picture but tank was 18 psi or so low. Pumped it up and issue resolved. Did notice a bunch or rust afterwards. Will keep an eye on tank and start pricing replacement. It is 19 yo and I hear they don't make them like they use to.

Yes pressure switch and gauge on Tee @ the pressure tank.
 

Reach4

Well-Known Member
Messages
38,794
Reaction score
4,411
Points
113
Location
IL
No picture but tank was 18 psi or so low. Pumped it up and issue resolved.
Nice! You may have an Amtrol Champion pressure tank, or maybe Well-X-Trol that has not had its air precharge topped up in 19 years. They both have Multi-dome construction, which protects the diaphragm when the air precharge is low, but can cause some effects when the precharge is low.
Yes pressure switch and gauge on Tee @ the pressure tank.
Nice also.

Note that well pressure tanks 10 to 32 gallons nominal usually have a 1 inch port, and 1-1/4 for bigger pressure tanks.
 

Valveman

Cary Austin
Staff member
Messages
14,599
Reaction score
1,296
Points
113
Location
Lubbock, Texas
Website
cyclestopvalves.com
Also note that cycling on and off is most likely why you needed a new pump, and is also the cause of most pressure tank failures. If you are replacing the tank, might as well solve the cycling problem while you are at it.
 

Eddiek2000

New Member
Messages
7
Reaction score
0
Points
1
Location
Southern MD, USA
The CSV is interesting. Can't say I've heard of it. The problem is fixed for now, but I was thinking of getting a LARGER pressure tank and putting a Pressure limiter/regulator on the output.

The CSV is an interesting option.
 
Top
Hey, wait a minute.

This is awkward, but...

It looks like you're using an ad blocker. We get it, but (1) terrylove.com can't live without ads, and (2) ad blockers can cause issues with videos and comments. If you'd like to support the site, please allow ads.

If any particular ad is your REASON for blocking ads, please let us know. We might be able to do something about it. Thanks.
I've Disabled AdBlock    No Thanks