Issues with water heater, please help

[Reach4]

That unit has poor documentation IMO.

https://terrylove.com/forums/index....heater-no-rotten-egg-smell.77342/#post-571874 has my misgivings about stubby anodes in a tall WH.

However that form factor does look like it would fit. A stubby anode would still be much better than a brass plug.

With the Ceranode, you would add a nipple and coupler. The nipple would screw into the WH, the coupler would go above that, and then the powered anode. The nipple should be a dielectric nipple, and the coupler brass. I see there are 3/4 x 4 and 3/4 x 5 dielectric nipples readily available.

Incidentally, when installing the powered anode, you don't need to use anywhere near as much torque as it took to remove the old anode.

 

[s10010001]

Ohh I see what you mean about the CerAnode, that does seem like a more effective design, and install. A simple 3” dielectric nipple would solve the issues of the small reassessed hole.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Reach4]

Ohh I see what you mean about the CerAnode, that does seem like a more effective design, and install. A simple 3” dielectric nipple would solve the issues of the small reassessed hole.

If 3 inch is enough. Remember that part of the nipple will disappear into the WH.

 

[Phog]

Im thinking I might just take that route. $120 isn't bad if it prevents the smells and corrosion.

Just want to make a small point here... The powered anode won't prevent smells-- it just does not add additional smells. In other words, if the cold drawn well water is already smelly even before going into the water heater, this ain't gonna cure it. But if the cold water is normal & then it starts to smell only after going through the water heater w/ traditional anode, then the powered anode will help that. I think we're already on the same page here but just wanted to make sure.

 

[Reach4]

Just want to make a small point here... The powered anode won't prevent smells-- it just does not add additional smells. In other words, if the cold drawn well water is already smelly even before going into the water heater, this ain't gonna cure it. But if the cold water is normal & then it starts to smell only after going through the water heater w/ traditional anode, then the powered anode will help that. I think we're already on the same page here but just wanted to make sure.

Yes.
If there is H2S already dissolved in the water, it can come out as the water is heated.

I think what the anode should help with is new H2S from SRB (sulfate-reducing bacteria) breaking down sulfates. I don't find good simple writups that describe the chemical reaction, however. http://wiki.biomine.skelleftea.se/wiki/index.php/Sulfate_reducing_bacteria

Well and plumbing and WH sanitizing can help this for a significant time, but I suspect it is a matter of time before SRB repopulates.

 

[WorthFlorida]

FYI...Dryer cords for water heaters are no longer allowed, the WH must be direct wired. My home in Palm Beach County built in 1990 did have a dryer cord installed by the builder, but code changed and plumbers are technically not allowed to reinstall the dryer cord. When you bought a WH installation from Home Depot, the cost of the electrician was included.

 

[s10010001]

yea my water is otherwise really good, no smells on the cold side. Honestly it’s been absolutely perfect since the new WH. I don’t think I have additional smells other than what was coming from the WH

 

[LLigetfa]

Another way to get rid of SRB produced smell is to turn up the temperature on the water heater. A tempering valve may then be required to prevent scalding.

 

[s10010001]

FYI...Dryer cords for water heaters are no longer allowed, the WH must be direct wired. My home in Palm Beach County built in 1990 did have a dryer cord installed by the builder, but code changed and plumbers are technically not allowed to reinstall the dryer cord. When you bought a WH installation from Home Depot, the cost of the electrician was included.

I actually see no mention of that requirement in IRC2018, at least not under water heater section p2801.1 - .8

 

[Master Plumber Mark]

you guys are really making this into something......

if you just remove the rod the heater will most likely still last 15 years being on low pressure
well water....

sometimes its just deciding on the lesser of 2 evils....

or you could just forget about it and see if the thing starts to smell in a few months.....

and you can always buy an aluminum rod to replace the mag rod and see what that does

 

[s10010001]

you guys are really making this into something......

if you just remove the rod the heater will most likely still last 15 years being on low pressure
well water....

sometimes its just deciding on the lesser of 2 evils....

or you could just forget about it and see if the thing starts to smell in a few months.....

and you can always buy an aluminum rod to replace the mag rod and see what that does

Very true, I guess it doesn't hurt to leave it bee and see where it goes. if I pull it out and it goes in 10 years, so be it.. ill get a better lifetime unit next time.

I still might go break it free once now, that should make it easier down the road. Maybe crack it free with the yearly flush.

 

[Master Plumber Mark]

Very true, I guess it doesn't hurt to leave it bee and see where it goes. if I pull it out and it goes in 10 years, so be it.. ill get a better lifetime unit next time.

I still might go break it free once now, that should make it easier down the road. Maybe crack it free with the yearly flush.

good idea
You should loosen it and put some teflon tape on it....
it wont move in a year from now if you dont free it up

 

[Jadnashua]

How effective a sacrificial anode will be depends on your water chemistry. Perfectly pure water wouldn't need one as it's a good insulator. But, we don't live in a world where water is essentially distilled of all mineral content, and it therefore, conducts allowing dielectric corrosion to take place.

FWIW, water is sometimes called the universal solvent...it may take millenia, but most things eventually get worn away or dissolved by it.

 

[s10010001]

ok so I got up there and broke the nut free. My M18 high torque 1/2" impact broke it free in seconds effortlessly. I went ahead and put on some of that good grey tape and put the rod back in. This should make it easier down the road.

For now, I'm just going to run with the original anode in place. Everything as of now is going great, no smells at all, no funny tastes. If that changes I will proceed with testing and possible anode changes. If it contiunes to be good I might just replace the Anode every so often (what interval is recommended here?)

 

[Phog]

what interval is recommended here?

It's really difficult to say as it depends on several variables -- how much water goes through the tank on a daily basis, the mineral content of the water, the water electrical conductivity. If you want to go down this road maybe just check it around year 2-3 and see where you're at. You want to replace it before the rod is fully dissolved, could be 2 years could be 6 or more. But most people don't even bother with changing the anode, including most plumbers.

 

[LLigetfa]

Everything as of now is going great, no smells at all, no funny tastes...

Water from the HWT should be considered as non-potable so you really should not be tasting it.

 

[s10010001]

They are cheap enough, if I decide to keep it in (anode) I will put it on my calendar for 24 months and just change it. I did put a solid filtration system in that I will also maintain, so that should help. As mentioned before, the previous owner had no filter in their 1 4.5x10 filter can, likely why I have had to replace every fixture in the house.