Issue with installing a new flange for the toilet. Advice needed on moving forward...

[Grant Kinsey]

My toilet started leaking a bit ago, and it has progressively gotten worse. Upon removing the toilet one of the closet bolts has broken, so I have to replace the flange. However, the flange isn't set in there like a normal flange, and I'm not sure how to move forward.

If you notice in the pictures, the drain pipe and the flange are offset a good bit, and I don't think I can get around doing it this way again. The last plumber must have cemented in the flange or something, so I'm guessing I'll have to break out the old flange. After breaking it out what should I do? I'm really at a loss, and I'm not a pro at plumbing by any means. Thanks!

 

[Terry]

They make repair flanges that will hold the closet bolts. I mount those to the flooring above the flange.
I don't really see well enough to know what flange you have there, or the material for a complete replacement.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Grant Kinsey]

They make repair flanges that will hold the closet bolts. I mount those to the flooring above the flange.
I don't really see well enough to know what flange you have there, or the material for a complete replacement.

I'm not sure what exactly it is either. It seems like the last plumber couldn't put in an offset flange or something, so they put in a big ring and cemented around it. Do you think it would be best just to rip that one out and put in a normal flange? Unfortunately because the drain pipe and hole are offset, I can't put in a standard closet flange, but would it be feasible to just put a standard one in and cut out the portion that connects to the drain pipe? I know in a perfect world you wouldn't do this, but there wasn't a connection the drain pipe before besides the concrete tunnel that is kinda created.

 

[Reach4]

Post a sharp picture of the area around the rag, but without the rag.

If you put drops of water 3/8 inch to the right of the blue cloth in https://terrylove.com/forums/index.php?attachments/img_1092-jpg.45824/ what happens to the water? Does it fall thru a crack without going into the pipe?

 

[Grant Kinsey]

Post a sharp picture of the area around the rag, but without the rag.

At school at the moment but I will as soon as I get home.

 

[Grant Kinsey]

No the water doesn’t drain around the pipe. I guess I could fill in the cracks around it with cement?

 

[Reach4]

I was just worried about that area seeping into the dirt or crawl space.

I don't know what that white tab is, but I think it should be clipped off.

Terry mentioned a repair ring.

Sioux Chief 886-MRM

Sioux Chief 886-MR

Sioux Chief 886-MRM Sioux Chief 886-MR have their mounting screws within the ring circle.

PASCO 21013 and Superior 21015 are repair rings with mounting tabs outside of the circle

 

[Grant Kinsey]

I was just worried about that area seeping into the dirt or crawl space.

I don't know what that white tab is, but I think it should be clipped off.

Terry mentioned a repair ring.

Sioux Chief 886-MRM

Sioux Chief 886-MR

Sioux Chief 886-MRM Sioux Chief 886-MR have their mounting screws within the ring circle.

PASCO 21013 and Superior 21015 are repair rings with mounting tabs outside of the circle

Haha! The white tab is actually a coke can tab that seems to have accumulated some calcium buildup or something. I think I'm going to try a stainless steel repair ring. I'll probably even out the cement or something and mount that over the existing ring. It isn't the best, but now isn't the greatest time to knockup all the concrete and tile.

 

[Grant Kinsey]

So this is where I’m at right now, I cemented the cracks and such so that it’s flush. I’m going to drill and install this repair flange, and if there’s wobble or anything I’ll just put some shimmies under it and seal it in. What do you guys think?

 

[Reach4]

Looks good. Get the orientation right before drilling so the closet bolts are in the narrow part of the slots. I would think about 5/16 inch from the end of the slot would be good. That gives you a little wiggle room. Maybe midway in the narrow part of the slots would be better, giving more wiggle room. I don't remember seeing this discussed.

Get shims in place before dropping the toilet on the wax.

 

[Grant Kinsey]

Looks good. Get the orientation right before drilling so the closet bolts are in the narrow part of the slots. I would think about 5/16 inch from the end of the slot would be good. That gives you a little wiggle room. Maybe midway in the narrow part of the slots would be better, giving more wiggle room. I don't remember seeing this discussed.

Get shims in place before dropping the toilet on the wax.

With the shims, should I use composite shims or can I just grab some wood bits for it? I've never really used shims, but is the idea that I get them level so that the toilet just drops on level?

Also, I went to try and drill through the concrete, but I'm getting stuck a bit of the way through. I'm using an impact drill, so should I look into getting a new drill bit?

 

[Reach4]

Composite. Wood is porous. Coins are not bad, but they are not tapered. https://terrylove.com/forums/index.php?threads/help-rocking-toto-aquia.22416/#post-148855

Yes. Get the new bit. What screws are you using? Tapcons, lead anchors? Tapcons are nice because the hole is smaller. Some don't like Tapcons and prefer lead anchors. They probably have good drill bits.

 

[Grant Kinsey]

I bought some 1/4" Tapcon anchors and a 1/4" Tapcon drill bit to go with it. I might just not be using enough force to get through the subfloor.

 

[Reach4]

Maybe. Don't overheat.
https://www.concretefasteners.com/tips-and-tricks-tapcon

You might buy a second bit.

Some people know how to sharpen the bits on a grinding wheel. I am not one of them.