Is this OK (Closet Flange Install)

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Kubstix

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I am having some concrete work done, and showed the guys the schematics of what my plumbing was going to be. I had all the fittings ready to go, pipe, blueprints, ect. The only thing they didn't do was my 90 elbow properly. I wanted to stick a 2 foot 4" pipe out of the concrete that I was going to cut flush after I tiled. However I discovered it looks like the 90 is almost going to be flush with the concrete pour. Will I be able to get a toilet flange in this?
 

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Kubstix

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Yes. There's a flange that fits inside 4" pipe. Glue pipe into the socket, cut it flush, then install the flange.

My concern is I couldn't get a flange to push down far enough without hitting the inside of that elbow? I guess my understanding was, if they were going to do it like this, they should have a used a street 90? Will it push down far enough?
 

Reach4

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https://s3.amazonaws.com/s3.supplyhouse.com/product_files/Sioux-Chief-884-PTM-Submittal-Sheet.pdf
884-PTM has a stainless ring (better) and a 2.4375" tail depth. If you want one with a shallower tail, those exist too. Measure from a straightedge representing the new height and see what you will have to work with. It is a "3x4 flange" which can fit outside of a 3 inch pipe or inside of a 4 inch.

That flange has a knock out that you hit with a hammer after you have done leak testing.
 

Cacher_Chick

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If you need to cut part of the tail off a longer inside fit flange, that works too. The cemented surface should be at least an inch long.
 

Kubstix

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I actually ended up cutting everything out and redoing from washing machine to toilet. I found that my pitch was a bit excessive for 4" being that elbow came all the way to the top on a 6ft run to a 10.5" deep sewage basin. So I dropped the whole thing to more of a reasonable pitch. I also measured that the back of the unfinished wall to the center of my pipe was 15 1/2 inches so I was going to have a huge gap behind my toilet to finished drywall. So I lowered the pitch, stuck a pipe out for concrete, and moved back to 12 3/4 from framing just in case I go with the full Toto 12". You guys think I'm good to go now?
 

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Reach4

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Depending on the height of things, you would also have the option of a 4 inch outside flange. Even a compression flange, where you don't glue; you tighten screws. Nothing wrong with gluing, but for a novice, the non-glue solution seems to give do-over potential. It offers flexiblity in case you decide to top the concrete with some flooring later too.

If you want that route, you save clearance space with a styrofoam spacer in place when you pour concrete. I am not saying that you should do that, but I was just pointing out the possibility.

There are nice inside 4 inch no-glue flanges also.
 

Kubstix

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Depending on the height of things, you would also have the option of a 4 inch outside flange. Even a compression flange, where you don't glue; you tighten screws. Nothing wrong with gluing, but for a novice, the non-glue solution seems to give do-over potential. It offers flexiblity in case you decide to top the concrete with some flooring later too.

If you want that route, you save clearance space with a styrofoam spacer in place when you pour concrete. I am not saying that you should do that, but I was just pointing out the possibility.

There are nice inside 4 inch no-glue flanges also.

Yeah my plans were to have the concrete poured and after I tile I will take an angle grinder and cut the pipe flush with tile and install a 4" inside fit gasketed toilet flange with a stainless ring on it so I don't have to glue, ect ect and tapcon the flange right into the tile or concrete. I haven't decided if I'm going to tile up to the piping, or make a square for the flange to sit inside the tile. Thank you for your responses.
 
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