Is my whole house filter shot?

[Atlplasma]

Two years ago a plumber installed a whole house filter with prefilter into my water service ahead of the pressure reducer. I had a water filter installer looking at the system when he pointed out this installation error. I've since bypassed the filters to eliminate any chance that they would fail and flood my basement.

The water filter installer wants to install a new system for $1,600. He says the fiberglass cylinder on the large carbon filter and the plastic housing on the prefilter are not safe to use. He also wants to replace the two-year-old controller because it is a somewhat older model that uses cams.

Thoughts? Is he offering good advice or simply angling for a larger sale?

 

[Reach4]

1. What is your system?
2. How high is the pressure on the water before the regulator?
3. What symptom do you have?

Thoughts? Is he offering good advice or simply angling for a larger sale?

I think more the latter.

Some backwashing controllers and filters may have a max rated pressure as little as 100 PSI. Many have 125 PSI. Some more. For example, the Fleck 5600SXT says

Pressure Hydrostatic: 300 psi
Working: 20 - 125 psi​

For the tanks http://waterpurification.pentair.co...45-structuralpolyglassvessels-final-lores.pdf says "Maximum operating pressure: 150 psi".

If there were a problem exceeding the rated pressure, it should be easy enough to move the regulator.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Atlplasma]

The system is not one of the name brand offers, but here is a link to the seller's site: http://www.pure-earth.com/backwashing-KDF-GAC-whole-house-water-filter.htm.

My street pressure is around 120 PSI according to the water filter installer who diagnosed my bad installation. Pressure after the reducer is around 60 PSI. As you suggested, I check the data sheet for the tank (http://www.enpress.com/site/wp-content/uploads/ENPRESS_LIT_CompositeVessels.pdf). It is rated for 150 PSI Max.

My main worry is that the tank and/or polishing filter housing will fail and flood my basement. The only "symptom" I had before bypassing the system was an issue with the once of month backwashing. Because of a previous issue, I had to reconnect the system using PEX and Sharkbite connectors. These connectors would leak when the controller put the tank through a backwash cycle. The water filter installer said it was likely the tank was rocking because of the high internal pressure, and this motion was stressing the sharkbite connectors.

 

[Reach4]

http://waterpurification.pentair.co...orma-series-valves-service-manual-3003714.pdf says "Operating Pressure: 20 -125 psi". I suggest that you could benefit from a pressure gauge. "My street pressure is around 120 PSI according to the water filter installer who diagnosed my bad installation." -- I think you might want independent info. Based on your description, it is hard to see how replacing your system is a good answer.

I don't know what it takes to incorrectly install Sharkbyte on PEX. Looking at http://www.sharkbite.com/sharkbite/wp-content/uploads/SB_Inslltn_Instrctns_2014.pdf it would seem that inadequate insertion depth would be a way. You may want to contact Sharkbite.

I think you want a plumber for this rather than a water filter installer.

Once per month backwashing seems very infrequent. Did your manual actually call for that? You might want to find a test paper for whatever it is you are trying to remove from your water to monitor performance. For example, if it is chlorine that you are trying to remove, get a sensitive chlorine test paper. http://www.hach.com/free-total-chlorine-test-strips-0-10-mg-l/product?id=7640211603 http://www.lamotte.com/en/water-wastewater/test-strips/2964-g.html

 

[Bannerman]

The tested failure pressure of various plumbing components is at least 2X the rated safe working pressure. While any component can fail, the filter tanks and controls should be fine unless you observe stress cracks or other defects. Relocate the filters to after the pressure regulator so they are exposed to 60 psi which is a common pressure for residential municipal water supplies.

I understand Autotrol control valves are commonly favored where incoming water contains silt or other debris. The cam and flap valve design has a high flow rate and is self cleaning and less prone to blockage and scoring compared to piston valve designs. Autotrol are quality control valves so there is no reason to replace it for the sake of change.

Sharbite state their connectors are rated for up to 200 psi. http://www.sharkbiteplumbing.com/faq

Edited to add: The information page you provided for the Enpress tanks, indicates the tested burst pressure for their tanks is 600 psi, 4X the rated working pressure.

 

[Bannerman]

A cartridge filter with a clear sump (removable enclosure where the cartridge sits in), tends to be more brittle and prone to failure than sumps that are opaque. As such, if your cartridge filter utilizes a clear sump, you are advised to discontinue its use or at least replace the sump with an opaque version.

 

[Atlplasma]

Thanks you Reach4 and Bannerman. I suspected the system would be fine if relocated to the house side of the pressure valve. To answer Reach4's question about the backwash frequency, once a month was the recommendation on the installation instruction. The leaks around the Sharkbite fittings seemed to be occurring because the filter tank was rocking when backwashing at 120 PSI. Lower pressure and stabilizing the tank probably will eliminate that issue. FWIW, the cartridge filter sump is a solid color plastic.

I will order some test strips since I suspect some or all of the charcoal may have been flushed out of the filter tank during the the original installation.

 

[Reach4]

I would be suspicious of the 120 PSI claim -- not that moving the filter to the 60 PSI side of the PRV if the PRV can handle the load.

Regarding your "once [per] month backwashing", I would solicit opinions on how often the coconut shell GAC filter with KDF-55 in a Media Guard should be backwashed. Searching, I now see that Pure Earth http://www.pure-earth.com/PDF/WH-EXL ASSEMBLY-KDF-GAC.pdf page 2 says

For most applications, every 7 days backwash is fine, though areas with high sediment levels or phosphates should set more frequently, perhaps 4 days.
​

You should replace GAC every few years (3 is often cited), from what I have read. http://www.pure-earth.com/backwashing-KDF-GAC-whole-house-water-filter.htm recommends every 7 years for both the KDF and the GAC. For a " Primary Water Treatment and Industrial Treatment Processes" enviroment, http://www.kdfft.com/HowItWorks.htm has a short time listed for GAC and says over 6 years for KDF.