Is my water heater drain clogged?

[DinoM]

I like to try to drain a couple of gallons or more from my water heater every 6 months to a year to see how clear or dirty the water is. I shut the water off at the shut-off where the line enters the house because the last time I used the shut-off valve at the water heater, it would just turn and turn and had a slight leak on it. Tightened the nut on it and stopped the leak, so I am hesitant to use it. It is a gate valve.

After shutting water off, connected hose to drain on water heater, opened up the drain, could hear some gurgling, but no water came out. Realized I hadn't turned a faucet on, so turned the kitchen faucet on, but still no water from the drain. Opened up the pressure relief valve, and still no water. Turned faucet off, closed pressure relief valve and turned water back on. Opened up drain and of course water comes out. The water was pretty clear, a little cloudy from the the heat. I drained a good 2 gallons that way, then turned the water off again and tried, and still couldn't get any water out of drain even opening and closing PRV.

Wondering if I have a very bad clog, too much sediment buildup in bottom of tank? I thought opening the drain with the water on would help to clear and dislodge any clogs. What would be the best way to figure out what is going on and remedy it? It is a 38 gal. electric and it is just over 3 years old.

 

[Reach4]

Replace the drain valve.

There is now available a brass full flow drain valve, which I would have used instead.
Rheem AP12231C-1 Overall Length (in.): 6-1/8
Rheem SP12231B Overall Length (in.): 3-3/4
Rheem AP12231B-1 Overall Length (in.): 3-3/4

Bradford White 265-42351-02 looks interesting, but not full flow. Better than the plastic however. Use a big screwdriver to operate. That method makes it less likely that a child would open the valve.

In the future, you can leave the pressure on when you draw that 1 to 2 gallons.

To drain out the water, such as for changing the valve, close the valve that feeds into the cold side of the water. Open a hot faucet to admit air. Open the drain valve.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[DinoM]

The shut-off valve on the cold water line is the problem. It is a gate valve and the last time I tried to shut it off it would just turn an turn. And it developed a slight leak at the nut behind the handle, which I stopped by tightening the nut. I need to get that replaced (it's not something I'm comfortable doing myself), but figured I would get that done whenever I have to replace the unit. So in the meantime I shut the water off to the house if I need to shut the water off to the heater.

Whenever I have to replace what I have now, I am going to try to get something that has a brass drain valve. I have plastic now, and had plastic previously, and they are prone to leaks and clogs. And replacing a drain valve is definitely not something I want to try myself.

I did open up the T&P valve after I turned the water back on to make sure it was functioning properly, and got a blast of black water that looked like it had small grains of black sand in it. Tried it again and the water was a lot clearer.

The next time I try to drain a couple of gallons, I'll just leave the water on like you suggested.

 

[Reach4]

Also see https://terrylove.com/forums/index....k-turning-into-complete-replacement-no.75341/

Sharkbite U3088FLEX18BVLF has a valve and a flex connector. Falcon Stainless has even better connectors with valve for WH. See the top of page 18 of https://www.falconstainless.com/falcon-stainless.pdf

 

[DinoM]

Thanks for the info. I am not comfortable with some of the DIY plumbing. I usually end of making things worse and have to end up calling a plumber.

But a question on the T&P valve, it is very hot to the touch. It has a piece of foam insulation that wraps around the valve. A couple of hours after testing it, I went back to look at it and check and make sure it wasn't leaking. I slid the foam insulator off it and felt around for any water, but it is extremely hot to the touch. Is that normal and just something I haven't noticed before or have I caused a problem?

 

[Reach4]

But a question on the T&P valve, it is very hot to the touch. It has a piece of foam insulation that wraps around the valve. A couple of hours after testing it, I went back to look at it and check and make sure it wasn't leaking. I slid the foam insulator off it and felt around for any water, but it is extremely hot to the touch. Is that normal and just something I haven't noticed before or have I caused a problem?

Normal, although "very hot" is a bit subjective. Turning down the WH temperature cooler should make the T&P valve cooler too.

 

[Jadnashua]

The T&P has a long probe that goes into the WH, plus, it's screwed into the WH tank past the tank's insulation, it's made of conductive metal, so, yes, as said, expect it to get hot!

 

[DinoM]

I figured it was normal, guess I never really noticed it, especially with the foam insulator around it. The galvanized nipples on the hot and cold both get hot too. Referring to the T&P valve, when I say hot, I can wrap my hand around it and have to let go after about 10 seconds. I think the WH temp is set at 130-140 degrees. Thought I'd consult the experts here to make sure everything was "normal", which these days is pretty subjective too.

 

[James Henry]

I would turn the temperature down to 120 deg. 140 is border line dangerous for old people and children.

 

[DinoM]

I had it set at 120 deg. when it was put in, but a little later bumped it up to either 130 or 140 after reading that a 120 deg setting can allow bacteria and pathogens to build up. 130-140 deg. kills any of the bad stuff.