Is it ok to run CPVC from polypropylene to well tank in house

Users who are viewing this thread

tony frederick

New Member
Messages
5
Reaction score
0
Points
1
Location
Maryland
I bought my house 5 yrs. ago. The well tank is around 40' from where the black polypropylene comes into the house then copper to the well tank. I'm concerned about the ph of my water(6.3) creating pin holes in the copper before my filter. I'm sure it is against code to run polypropylene in the house. I assume it is polypropylene, could be polyethylene. I would like to replace it with CPVC if this is allowed by code. Any thoughts or suggestions appreciated. I am in Maryland.
Thanks in advance
 
Last edited:

Boycedrilling

In the Trades
Messages
837
Reaction score
185
Points
43
Location
Royal City, WA
Acceptable materials are copper, galvanized pipe, cpvc, and pex. Not poly or regular PVC. Pex and cpvc are sized the same as copper. Poly can be a either cts (copper tube size) or ips (iron pipe size). Regular PVC is sized the same as galvanized. Cts is smaller than ips. 1" cts is about equivalent to 3/4" ips. 1 1/4" cts is about the same as 1" ips.

I recommend pex type A, or cpvc. If you have the tools for it, go with pex.
 

tony frederick

New Member
Messages
5
Reaction score
0
Points
1
Location
Maryland
CPVC will work, but it is smaller. So be sure to use large enough size and don't restrict the flow.
Acceptable materials are copper, galvanized pipe, cpvc, and pex. Not poly or regular PVC. Pex and cpvc are sized the same as copper. Poly can be a either cts (copper tube size) or ips (iron pipe size). Regular PVC is sized the same as galvanized. Cts is smaller than ips. 1" cts is about equivalent to 3/4" ips. 1 1/4" cts is about the same as 1" ips.

I recommend pex type A, or cpvc. If you have the tools for it, go with pex.


i was planning on replacing the 1" copper with 1" cpvc. is there a special coupling i would use to go from the black plastic to the cpvc? currently, there is a brass hose barb with a hose clamp attaching the copper to the black plastic. I was thinking of doing the same. i don't have the tools for PEX and cpvc is easier to work with
 
Last edited:

Boycedrilling

In the Trades
Messages
837
Reaction score
185
Points
43
Location
Royal City, WA
There is a transition fitting to go from poly pipe to pex. I do not know of one for cpvc. Normally I use male adapters on both the poly pipe and cpvc. I couple the male adapters with a valve or a threaded coupler. On the cpvc male and female adapters, I buy the one with stainless steel threads.

There are multiple coupling systems for pex pipe. For 3/4" and under there are the shark bite push on fittings, no tools required. Pinch clamps that you compress the "ear" on. The tools costs about $30. Crimp rings can be used up to 1", not sure if you can use crimp rings on 1 1/4". You cam buy an apollo crimping tool at Lowes for $80. The premium system is the Upenor proper system. With it you expand the pex, slip it on the fitting, and it shrinks back down. There are hand expander, but most contractors use the Milwaukee proper tools. The M12 tool will do up to 1" and costs around $450. The M18 tool will do up to 1 1/4" and costs around $750. They have another tool for 2" and 3" pex. It costs $2500 or so.

There's is Pex A, B, and I believe type C. Different manufacturing methods. Pex A is the best. It can be expanded 4-6 times its original diameter without splitting. Think freeze resistance.

The one drawback to pex is that it shouldn't be exposed to direst sunlight for over 30 days.
 

tony frederick

New Member
Messages
5
Reaction score
0
Points
1
Location
Maryland
thanks for all the info. I started doing a little research on pex. I would probably be better off using 1 1/4, i don't won't to reduce the id of the pipe. Unfortunately, I didn't see as much info on the 1 1/4. I need to look around to see how much the tools cost. The 1" would be great, the tool isn't expensive. I didn't see any info on which type I was looking at. There were different colors for different applications. The coil looks like it may be a little tough to work with because it seems to hold the coiled shape. Straight pipe may be a little easier to work with.
 

Reach4

Well-Known Member
Messages
38,796
Reaction score
4,413
Points
113
Location
IL
If you wanted, you could use 1 inch split the hot and cold paths earlier. I am not a pro.

How big is your poly?
 

Reach4

Well-Known Member
Messages
38,796
Reaction score
4,413
Points
113
Location
IL
The line from the well to the well tank is not too critical in size. A submersible pump can usually pump with enough pressure to not be bothered by several feet of somewhat reduced diameter piping. The critical thing is that any line between the pressure tank and the pressure switch is big enough. Often people use a "tank tee" for that connection.
this is the line going to the well tank, so there is only 1 line

Yes. I was referring to the water line that goes to the rest of the house.
 

tony frederick

New Member
Messages
5
Reaction score
0
Points
1
Location
Maryland
I'm only replacing the line from the poly entering the house to the well tank because i'm concerned with the possibility of pinholes in the copper from the water that has not had the ph adjusted by the filter. The rest of the house is copper and i am not planning on replacing that unless there is a problem. I was planning on doing this as i had time. It requires opening up a bulkhead and the ceiling in my basement to access. The 1" looks like it would be much easier to work with as far as buying tools to assemble.
 
Top
Hey, wait a minute.

This is awkward, but...

It looks like you're using an ad blocker. We get it, but (1) terrylove.com can't live without ads, and (2) ad blockers can cause issues with videos and comments. If you'd like to support the site, please allow ads.

If any particular ad is your REASON for blocking ads, please let us know. We might be able to do something about it. Thanks.
I've Disabled AdBlock    No Thanks