Is it ok to for a sub to pump directly into pressure tanks?

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Jfharper

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So I'll empty pressure tanks, then air pressure to 18 psi, set cut in to 20 and cutout to 40 and see how it works. Right now I'm at 38 air pressure, and 40/60 on booster.

I'm glad I started this thread...I forgot some of this stuff.
 

Boycedrilling

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now that California has gotten rain flowing from the Sierra's.

I was in Madera in January. The Driller I was talking to said it takes 8 years for water from the mountains to start recharging the aquifer in the Central Valley. It’s going to take a lot of years to replenish California’s groundwater after this drought. Or they need to use surface water recharge in the winter.
 

Jfharper

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I was in Madera in January. The Driller I was talking to said it takes 8 years for water from the mountains to start recharging the aquifer in the Central Valley. It’s going to take a lot of years to replenish California’s groundwater after this drought. Or they need to use surface water recharge in the winter.
Wow, didn't know it took that long!
 

Jfharper

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Update:
Yesterday morning I climbed up there...it looks like the 6" plastic nipple is leaking just outside the threaded portion going into the storage tank outlet...so leaking on the smooth middle part of the nipple.

This morning, after spraying some mud wasp nests and spraying some fire ants around where I would be standing, I emptied my two pressure tanks, the storage tank still has water in it. One is 85 gallon, the other is smaller and measures 28" high x 21" wide, approx. It is an Amtrol. I set the precharge to 18 PSI while water PSI was at 0 PSI.

Then used the booster to set the pressure switch to 20/40, I figured this would be faster than using the sub. Then disconnected the booster pump wires from the pressure switch, also disconnected the float wires from the contactor and then connected a wire from the contactor hot leg 1 to the pressure switch and a wire from the pressure switch to the side coil terminal of the contactor. Set all the gate valves so the sub would flow only into the pressure tanks.

Turned on the sub breaker, and moved the low pressure manual switch safety thing on the pressure switch and the sub turned on. I also had a spigot open just to make sure the sub would get flow. It did, turned off the spigot, the pressure gauge was slower moving then when using the booster, but did increase 1 PSI about every 10 seconds. The last 1 PSI only took 10 seconds before shutting off the sub. I did notice as I was working that the cut off setting would increase as the outside temperature was increasing. We were about 50-55 degrees F overnight and it will get to 95-100 degrees F today. I'll check on it during the day to see if the cutout needs adjusting so it doesn't cause that problem mentioned in this thread...is that "hammering?"

Now, I'm emptying the storage tank before removing that nipple and fixing...I didn't want to fix with water in the tank and have a "fire hose" go off while standing on a 25' extension ladder.
 

Reach4

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I suspect your bulkhead fitting needs a new washer/gasket/0-ring. Take your digital caliper to the site to measure how big the replacement should be.

I hope your local hardware store has what you need, but with your backup system, you can order and wait without too much stress.
 
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