Is it hard to put 32" wide tub in place of 30"?

[Ukrop]

Hi everyone!

This week I found this great place to get professional advice on plumbing - thanks to owner!

Guys helped me to figure out the best settings for my new water softener. Now I have next question for plumbing professionals

What started as desire to replace just vanity in the bathroom now is turning into full overhaul

Here is my question:
existing bath is 30" wide with apron in alcove. How hard it would be to install 32" wide tub - drainpipe wise?

I'm regular homeowner (maintenance electrician by trade) that does majority of work done myself - can solder copper, electrical etc.

So the relocation of copper pipes is not a problem. I just never changed bathtub...

I LOVE taking bath so I'm thinking about MAAX tub from Costco:
https://m.costco.ca/MAAX-New-Town-Soaker-Tub-Left-hand-Drain.product.100009365.html

They say it has 3" of clearance under the tub to run piping. Does it mean I should be able to compensate the offset?

Or there are other tricks?

Thanks in advance!

 

[Terry]

Going from 30" to 32" depends on your space there. Normally if a toilet is alongside, it's 15" from tub to center so that you have some elbow room.
The drain is most likely about in the same location as before, or at most about an inch offset. The tricky thing about a deep tub, is being able to drop it in place without taking out too much wall board. The taller, the harder it is to make the end drop in. It can be a challenge.

 

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[Ukrop]

Terry, I appreciate your reply!

We're going to gut everything out to the studs (including toilet), so fitting should be easier. I'm afraid of 1" offset of the drain... You think it shouldn't be a big deal?

Yes, there's toilet alongside so I need to check clearance (I'm at work now

Going from 30" to 32" depends on your space there. Normally if a toilet is alongside, it's 15" from tub to center so that you have some elbow room.
The drain is most likely about in the same location as before, or at most about an inch offset. The tricky thing about a deep tub, is being able to drop it in place without taking out too much wall board. The taller, the harder it is to make the end drop in. It can be a challenge.

 

[Jadnashua]

The trap itself can be swiveled, and often, can handle the offset, but it can be a problem if it is right up against a joist and it needs to go through it! FWIW, worst case, a trap will work just fine if it is almost 180-degrees backwards to the ultimate flow (it can be rotated nearly all the way back on itself). Given that joists are often 16" OC, makes the odds of one being near the current drain is higher. Notching a joist should never be done. It effectively makes the whole joist the equivalent of the depth of what's left below the notch. Without seeing what's under there now, it's hard to say. Even with the offset, sometimes, the reach of where the drain exits the tub is different distance from the wall.

If you like taking a tub bath...and, you can move things to allow it, a longer tub is also a big thing. I redid my bathroom and installed a 6' tub, and was just sort of being able to use a 6.5' one, which would have been even nicer! Keep in mind, a deep tub, regardless of length, will use more hot water than 'normal', and you might need to consider your water heater size in the process. Nothing worse than getting your soaking tub half full, and running out of hot water!

 

[Terry]

I normally install a new p-trap with a new tub drain. What is there already gets tossed.

 

[Ukrop]

Thanks!

It sounds like my original plan - rip everything out and see...

Here I'm coming!