Irrigation system leaking

[datoda]

Hi,

I turned on the indoor valve to my irrigation system yesterday, and found the equipment in the picture starts leaking in almost every screw/joint/valve (If you zoom in you can see the water droplets). The leaking isn't profuse (yet), probably at the rate of 5 drops a minute. My questions:

1. What is this thing called? What is it for?
2. Is there a DIY way to stop/alleviate the leak? I bought some self-fusing silicone tape, hoping to just wrap the whole thing up; but then figured that wrapping the valves and joints may not be effective.
3. If I have to ask for professional help, should I hire a regular plumber, or a landscaper?

Thanks a lot in advance for your insights.

 

[Valveman]

That is a vacuum breaker. It is designed to keep your irrigation system from draining back to the supply when the supply loses pressure. The parts that are leaking are just regular ball valves, and you can just replace them. The larger ones may have a packing nut under the handle that could be tightened.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Gary Swart]

These devices are required by federal law when using municipal water supplies for irrigation. They should be inspected and certified each year. Now that said, we all know that some cities don't follow all the rules on such things, but a backflow device that is not functioning correctly endangers the health of your family and everyone on the water supply. Here's how it works in my city. The city performs the first test on a new system. Then each spring they send us a list of registered certified inspectors. We call one of them and arrange for an inspection. It takes about 10 minutes and costs about $35 plus any parts necessary to make the device compliant. If a homeowner neglects to get the inspection, the city shuts the water off to the residence until the inspection is made. Your city may not be so concerned, but a dose of Ecoli would make believers out of most people.

 

[Flapper]

These devices are required by federal law when using municipal water supplies for irrigation. They should be inspected and certified each year. Now that said, we all know that some cities don't follow all the rules on such things, but a backflow device that is not functioning correctly endangers the health of your family and everyone on the water supply. Here's how it works in my city. The city performs the first test on a new system. Then each spring they send us a list of registered certified inspectors. We call one of them and arrange for an inspection. It takes about 10 minutes and costs about $35 plus any parts necessary to make the device compliant. If a homeowner neglects to get the inspection, the city shuts the water off to the residence until the inspection is made. Your city may not be so concerned, but a dose of Ecoli would make believers out of most people.

Shouldn't the properties have a back-flow preventer thing next to the meter so that the entire property's water can't contaminate the mains?

 

[Gary Swart]

That's true. I think my system is fairly normal, the water passes through the meter then tees. On side of the tee goes to the house, the other side goes to the backflow. There is a stop and waste prior to the backflow so the the irrigation system is cut off in the fall. Now, I do have a much larger backflow and it is protected under the surface with a box. The one shown in the original is much simpler than mine, but it does the same basic job. I think the backflow can be located anywhere as long as it prevents the irrigation water in the line from siphoning back into the domestic side.

 

[Karl in NY]

When I installed my personal irrigation system, my town's water supply did not have a backflow-preventer check-valve by the meter, so I was required to use a double check-valve. The Febco pictured is a single. My Flomatic is a double, and has 4 test ports vs. the two shown in the photo. Since the town has no backflow preventer, no expansion tank is needed for the hot water heater, either. This town has no testing requirements, even after initial installation of the system, despite requiring a building permit.

It's odd that that both ball valves would start leaking at the same time, if they're even the source of the drip. Perhaps you live in a cold-winter climate and the system was not properly winterized in the Fall? After blowing out all zones, both ball valves should be closed, and the test ports should be left open (screw slots rotated 90° from present position).

Febco repair parts are widely available, even AMZN carries them, but the parts prices can add-up quickly and the Febco 765 is so cheap ($75), I now just replace the entire valve. Just did one on Cape Cod last week, and when you add-in labor time to rebuild, the customer ends up with a brand new assembly for less money. BTW, I have yet to see a Febco without badly rusted ball valve handles...it's practically their trademark...

https://www.amazon.com/Febco-765-1-...UTF8&qid=1466438273&sr=8-2&keywords=febco+765

 

[hj]

quote;
Shouldn't the properties have a back-flow preventer thing next to the meter so that the entire property's water can't contaminate the mains?

That is a different matter all together, and some areas DO require it, (and when they do the one shown is not approved for that purpose), but they still require the irrigation system backflow to protect the water inside the building. The backflow preventer shown is also NOT approved in many areas for irrigation systems and they require the higher security, and more expensive, RPPBFP device. The only two parts I have ever had to replace on a Febco valve were the poppet and the cap and they are NOT THAT expensive.