Iron removal with iron filter or water softener??

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Dana 2 Scott

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My setup: 3 years old, house has pex plumbing
Well tank
Backwashing sediment filter - 10x44 Vortech tank with 1.0 cu ft Filter-Ag, Clack WS1TC service valve
Big Blue 4.5 x 10", 5micron AP810 sediment filter
Whirlpool 33000 grain cabinet style softener

Well Water:
pH 6.6
Hardness 1 gr/gal
Iron 2.86 ppm

Water sample taken post filters but before softener:
pH 6.6
Hardness 1 gr/gal
Iron 0.08 ppm

Treated Tap Water:
pH 6.6
Hardness ND
Iron 0.20 ppm when the softener is in-service
Iron 0.08 ppm when the softener is bypassed

The intent of the water softener was to use it primarily for iron removal since the well water is pretty soft to begin with. But the softener actually seems to be adding iron back into the finished product. I'm just guessing that the resin is fouled to some degree and leaching a bit of iron. Yesterday for the first time I tried a backwash with Iron Out but it only reduced the iron from 0.25 to 0.20 at the tap. I'm assuming the iron in the well water must be almost entirely ferric because the Filter-Ag and the 5 micron AP810 (surprisingly) remove almost all the iron and the softener is only treating 0.08 ppm. I don't know if the iron reaching the softener is ferrous or small ferric particles which might pass through the 5 micron filter. So I have a few questions: Do I even need a softener since the hardness is only 1 gr/gal? Does 1gr/gal cause problems with, for example, spotting on glass shower doors or shower heads? Or should I re-bed the softener and keep it? Or maybe continue to try more IO cleanings before deciding to re-bed. Should I be at all concerned with the pH 6.6 water since I have pex piping and have no copper stains in any bath fixtures after 10 years? I don't like the idea of calcite filters because the two I've owned in previous houses have turned into concrete after a while. Thanks in advance for your thoughts and help. Much appreciated.
 

ditttohead

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Sounds very logical... removing the last bit of iron can be difficult. A simple micronizing air injector may be all that is needed. If you are going to clean the resin with IO, ty this, add the iron out, then start the regeneration. As soon as all the water is out of the softener, unplug the power and bypass the softener, let the IO soak in the resin bed for a while. Plug the unit back in and put it back into service and allow the unit to complete its regeneration.
 

Dana 2 Scott

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Sounds very logical... removing the last bit of iron can be difficult. A simple micronizing air injector may be all that is needed. If you are going to clean the resin with IO, ty this, add the iron out, then start the regeneration. As soon as all the water is out of the softener, unplug the power and bypass the softener, let the IO soak in the resin bed for a while. Plug the unit back in and put it back into service and allow the unit to complete its regeneration.

Where would you locate the air injector -- I'm not familiar with them. In the Filter-Ag tank? I'll try soaking the resin with IO like you suggest. Do you know of any resin cleaner that might be more effective than IO? Thanks
 

Skyjumper

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your clack valve is probably clogged with iron. luckily they are easy to take apart and clean, and you should be doing that anyway. that probably won't fix the small amount of iron in your finished water though. for that you should also dismantle and clean the softener valve (whatever kind may be in there) - that will probably be much more difficult than cleaning the Clack. for resin cleaning, in addition to letting SIO sit overnight, also try one of the phosphoric acid based resin cleaners (but not at the same time as SIO). I have had good results with them. Rescare is a popular one, but the Out Filtermate heavy duty cleaner is the same thing and much cheaper. 32oz bottle at menards for 4 bucks. you can just add it manually to the brine well 1-2oz at a time.
 
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