Iron filter needed

[Rbarton3]

I’m a confirmed DIYer and have been a long time reader of this forum and have found the information here to be very helpful. Now I’m in need of a new iron filter and thought I better sign up to get advice specific to my particular application. I appreciate any feedback, advice or comments!

I’m on a private well and here are some of the specifics about my water directly from the well:

Well Flow – 8.5 GPM
Iron – 2.08 PPM
Manganese – 0.02 PPM
PH – 7.67
Total hardness – 20 GPG (330 PPM))
Turbidity – 18.8 NTU
Color – 37.6 CU

The water from the well does have a metallic odor to it, but I do not detect a rotten egg odor which makes me think there is not a problem with hydrogen sulfide. Although, there is an occasional rotten egg odor in the hot water.

I currently have a newer 48,000 grain water softener and a very old Hellenbrand Iron Curtain iron filter. Based on simple iron test strip results, the iron filter is removing some iron still, but the water softener is doing a lot of the work – hence the desire for a new iron filter.

I’m considering a 1.5-2.0 FT3 Katalox Light based AIO system, but am certainly open to other options. I’ve looked at systems available online from sites like:

Home plus Iron Rival
Aquascience
Quality Water treatment – softpro head
Air Injection system

Eagerly awaiting expert feedback from the forum! Thanks in advance!!

 

[Valveman]

Moving this to the Softener Forum. Should get more help there.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Rbarton3]

Moving this to the Softener Forum. Should get more help there.

Thanks!

 

[wascalwabbitt]

Do yourself a favor and look at
www.ohiopurewaterco.com
Great pricing and they know how to spec your water system properly. One of their goals is to bring costs down for the retail customer and he won't sell you if you don't need it.
(FYI - I have absolutely no affiliation of any kind with them.)

 

[ditttohead]

Well Flow – 8.5 GPM
Iron – 2.08 PPM
Manganese – 0.02 PPM
PH – 7.67
Total hardness – 20 GPG (330 PPM))
Turbidity – 18.8 NTU
Color – 37.6 CU

Nothing difficult here with the limited water quality report. These levels are likely a good match for an AIO design. AIO works well with low levels of iron and adequate pH. Regardless of what the specifications of the medias say, there is a lot more to it but... from what I see, AIO is a good idea. Some of the minor problems with AIO and iron is the excessive amount of iron build-up you will have on the valve and internal components. I would recommend taking the valve apart when it is new so you can familiarize yourself with the way it comes apart and goes back together before it is all fouled up with iron. I would also recommend tearing the valve apart after 6 months to get an idea of just how often you are going to have to clean the valve. A citric acid solution tends to be the most popular way to clean the valve and components. it is relatively safe and effective. Be sure to remove the valve and inspect the top screen/diffuser/umbrella. We build them with the umbrella or a special diffuser. The diffuser seems to work best and is fairly easy to keep clean. The umbrella design doesn't work as well but it is the easiest to clean. I have seen several companies go with the cheap top screens, these are nearly impossible to keep clean and cause many headaches.

 

[wascalwabbitt]

If you are so inclined, buy the AIO, but run it without for a while to see if it's acceptable. If not, hook in the AIO. That cleaning of the valve is just too much maintenance imo. In my experience, it doesn't get done regularly, water flow gets choked down, then the owner puts it in bypass mode intending to clean it and iron flows further down the system, possibly into the hot water tank. And you see how other problems start. Imho the theory and practicality diverge substantially with AIO

 

[ditttohead]

AIO can create quite a mess. KL without oxidant injection is fairly hit and miss. Many of our customers also use KL without oxidant but they install a regenerant valve so that they can simply suck up some bleach or H2o2 every few months to help give the bed a good refreshing as it were. A Hydra ahead of the unit is also a popular option. Unscrew the sump, fill it with bleach, turn the water back on...

 

[wascalwabbitt]

That is a much better choice -- maintenance wise. Just way way better in the field -happier owners!!

 

[Rbarton3]

Do yourself a favor and look at
www.ohiopurewaterco.comp

Thanks for the recommendation. Looks like they offer a wide variety of equipment at a reasonable price.

 

[zer0]

Thanks for the recommendation. Looks like they offer a wide variety of equipment at a reasonable price.

If you want to DIY, simplest solution is to get a tank w/ in-n-out head and drill and tap a hole for 1/4" tubing for an air compressor.

All Iron Filters use air compressors to precipitate the iron in the water. You can then filter this iron out with any usual 20-30 micron cartridge.

Id probably go tank with a/c & carbon pellets -> 20-35 micron cartridge -> outlet. Should last you

 

[Rbarton3]

I would recommend taking the valve apart when it is new so you can familiarize yourself...

Taking apart the valve while it's new to get familiar is a great idea! I do like to tinker...

Whats the best way to make sure the top screen/diffuser/umbrella system is the preferred type when trying to purchase equipment online?

 

[Rbarton3]

If you are so inclined, buy the AIO, but run it without for a while to see if it's acceptable. If not, hook in the AIO.

Wondered about running this way since the iron levels are not astronomical. What's involved with turning the AIO functionality on and off?

 

[Rbarton3]

AIO can create quite a mess. KL without oxidant injection is fairly hit and miss. Many of our customers also use KL without oxidant but they install a regenerant valve so that they can simply suck up some bleach or H2o2 every few months to help give the bed a good refreshing as it were. A Hydra ahead of the unit is also a popular option. Unscrew the sump, fill it with bleach, turn the water back on...

What's involved with adding a regenerant valve? Is this something that is controlled manually, say at the 1st of the month?

I like the Hydra idea, seems simple and straight forward. How often does the filter need replacing?