iron filter nah or yay?

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Stephen Walker

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We have a 50 micron spin down that needs cleaned two times a week and a water softener. Everyone in the house agrees the tap water taste good, but I want to add an iron filter. The wife is saying we don't need it. What are some pros to adding an iron filter so I can sell her on it? We do have pretty hard water before the water softener. A slight hint of "well water" taste from the tap. No taste from the fridge's carbon filter. Bath water is soft but not soft enough to leave you feeling slimy.

I did recently build the water softener with new media, gasket and cleaned out the brine tank. It is like new again.
 

Reach4

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A backwashing iron filter will also remove sediment, and will make things easier on the softener. If a softener is dealing with iron, it needs some extra treatment.

A backwashing iron filter requires more gpm of backwash than a softener. Make sure that the plumbing and pre-filter can pass lots of GPM. If you under-backwash, the media may cement together. If you get a backwashing iron filter, I suggest an unpainted tank, so that you can see the bed expansion during backwash. Shine a bright light thru at night.

Spin down filter then could go to a bigger mesh -- maybe 350 microns or so. https://www.rusco.com/products/1-spin-down-filter

So iron filter can be various type. I think AIO3 with Katalox light is higher end. I think that has an ozone generator.
 

LLigetfa

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If you get a backwashing iron filter, I suggest an unpainted tank, so that you can see the bed expansion during backwash. Shine a bright light thru at night.
That only works for a short time when it is still new. The inside of the tank will build up with iron and stop being translucent.
 

Reach4

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No treating with IO or other will clear the iron enough? I guess it still could be useful initially to gauge if the backwash is initially sufficient.

My iron+H2S filter is painted. But I will tell you when I changed media, the top basket was gunked up with iron. I removed that top basket.
 

Stephen Walker

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A backwashing iron filter will also remove sediment, and will make things easier on the softener. If a softener is dealing with iron, it needs some extra treatment.

A backwashing iron filter requires more gpm of backwash than a softener. Make sure that the plumbing and pre-filter can pass lots of GPM. If you under-backwash, the media may cement together. If you get a backwashing iron filter, I suggest an unpainted tank, so that you can see the bed expansion during backwash. Shine a bright light thru at night.

Spin down filter then could go to a bigger mesh -- maybe 350 microns or so. https://www.rusco.com/products/1-spin-down-filter

So iron filter can be various type. I think AIO3 with Katalox light is higher end. I think that has an ozone generator.

I planned on renting an iron filter first. Depending on how it does over 6 months or a year; i'd go out and buy a nice one. When the spin down isn't clogged; I get an easy 5gpm. I was also thinking about doing two 50 micron spin downs in parallel. I'd still clean them two times a week. Luckily I was able to mount it to the basement wall and it is rather easy to clean. A 2 minute job tops.
 

Reach4

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I planned on renting an iron filter first. Depending on how it does over 6 months or a year; i'd go out and buy a nice one. When the spin down isn't clogged; I get an easy 5gpm.
My 10x54-inch iron+H2S filter only uses a 5 gpm backwash. That is significantly less than most.

My iron and H2S are fairly light.
 

Stephen Walker

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My 10x54-inch iron+H2S filter only uses a 5 gpm backwash. That is significantly less than most.

My iron and H2S are fairly light.

The dealer did say their iron filters require 5gpm. But my wife insist we don't need an iron filter.
 

Reach4

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An iron filter can usually also address H2S. How much iron do you have?

If the softner has been dealing with iron...

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A way to use Iron Out powder to treat your resin periodically to deal with iron. This is not an authoritative procedure, but it should be pretty good.


A softener is not the best way to deal with significant iron, but it can be economical or cash-flow positive.


1.Dissolve 1/2 cup to 1 cup of Iron Out powder into maybe 1 or 2 gallons of warm water.(X1: option -- maybe up the dose) Pour this down the brine tube. Agitate the brine if you can.


2. Let this sit for 2 hours to 2 weeks.


3. Start a regeneration. Usually after backwash, the brine draw cycle starts. Get to brine draw however it happens. Let the brine get drawn until the the brine tank is drawn. Alternatively monitor the drain line with a TDS meter, and look for a big increase in TDS. At that point, stop the flow of water with the bypass valve. That will let the solution sit in sure contact with the resin.


4. Let the solution sit in the resin for a time. That time might be an hour or might be 12 hours.


5. With an electronic timer, such as 5800SXT, the cycling will continue while the water is off. However since the water is blocked, the solution says in contact with the resin. Then do a full regeneration to get the solution all cleaned out.


You might watch the drain line during the start of the later regen, and see if it is rust colored.


Note: various old posts have tried to describe a procedure, and I have tried to assimilate those. Go ahead and criticize this procedure. Different views can be helpful in tweaking a procedure.


There is not just one right way.


==============================
Sanitizing your well can help for a while, but sanitizing weather may be over for a while. https://terrylove.com/forums/index....izing-extra-attention-to-4-inch-casing.65845/ is my well sanitizing write-up.
 
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