Installing Water Line for Humidifier - Not Sure if I Should Attempt Sweating or Use a Sharkbite

[Cai24]

I am planning to install an Aprilaire 700 humidifier this weekend. I will need a 1/4" hot water connection. I am one of these people who have watched a bunch of Youtube videos about sweating copper pipes, but I've never actually done it. I feel like this is a skill that I need to learn. Part of me is tempted to use a Sharkbite and just get a plumber out at some point to replace it. It's a 3/4" hot water line that is leaving the hot water heater. My understanding is that I would have to use a 3/4" x 3/4" x 1/2" reducing tee. From there, I would need a small length of 1/2" and then I would need to sweat on a straight 1/2" x 1/4" stop. I feel like I could sweat 2 of the connections first and then make the cut in the water line and sweat the vertical sections of the tee. My biggest fear is not sweating properly due to inexperience and having a leak. I know you don't want too little or too much solder. I've read that the solder amount should be approximately the same as the diameter of the pipe. I guess if I really messed up, I could get a Sharkbite slip fitting and get a plumber in for repairs. I'd definitely like to avoid that. I've attached a picture, so you can see the pipe. It's the one on the left. I appreciate any input!

 

[PlumbNuts]

I am planning to install an Aprilaire 700 humidifier this weekend. I will need a 1/4" hot water connection. I am one of these people who have watched a bunch of Youtube videos about sweating copper pipes, but I've never actually done it. I feel like this is a skill that I need to learn. Part of me is tempted to use a Sharkbite and just get a plumber out at some point to replace it. It's a 3/4" hot water line that is leaving the hot water heater. My understanding is that I would have to use a 3/4" x 3/4" x 1/2" reducing tee. From there, I would need a small length of 1/2" and then I would need to sweat on a straight 1/2" x 1/4" stop. I feel like I could sweat 2 of the connections first and then make the cut in the water line and sweat the vertical sections of the tee. My biggest fear is not sweating properly due to inexperience and having a leak. I know you don't want too little or too much solder. I've read that the solder amount should be approximately the same as the diameter of the pipe. I guess if I really messed up, I could get a Sharkbite slip fitting and get a plumber in for repairs. I'd definitely like to avoid that. I've attached a picture, so you can see the pipe. It's the one on the left. I appreciate any input!

Soldering is an art form that requires a lot of practice to perfect, your water lines in your home are not the place for practice.
I am not a fan of Sharkbites but I do like your idea of Sharkbite now and plumber later.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[PlumbNuts]

Pick you up some copper pipe and fittings and start practicing on your workbench; when you feel confident with your achievements then solder on an air valve and test your work with air. After you have about a dozen of good soldered fittings then you might consider tackling your water lines.

 

[JohnCT]

Part of me is tempted to use a Sharkbite and just get a plumber out at some point to replace it.

I'm not a huge fan of Sharkbites, and even though I'm not a pro, can solder neater than a lot of pros can. Still, Sharkbites are great for emergency repairs. Further, they are allowed by code behind sheetrock walls. This tells me that they're fine for something like you're doing. As long as the Bite is visible, I can't see any disadvantage to using one. Make sure the pipe is clean and smooth, and deburr after cutting the pipe. The biggest problem with Bites is that sometimes there's not enough pipe swing. That's where copper slip couplings can't be beat.

John