Installing GFCI outlets - wiring the right terminals

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tracyballard

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I'm about to be installing a bunch of Leviton GFCI commercial grade 15 amp duplex outlets to replace the old ungrounded 3 prong outlets that someone put in previously, but I had a couple of questions. One question is about the terminals and which wires go to which terminals - on the back it has a label over one set of terminals that says to wire those terminals to the next outlet in line for continuous ground protection. Does that matter if I'm replacing all of the outlets with GFCI outlets? And would it make that outlet ungrounded if wired the opposite way, or would it be a problem for other outlets down the line? Not sure if I can tell between the 2 white and 2 black wires as to which goes to the next outlet.

One other thing, I assume using the back wire method is preferred to wrapping around the terminal? please let me know if not.

thanks again for all the help!
 
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Reach4

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One question is about the terminals and which wires go to which terminals - on the back it has a label over one set of terminals that says to wire those terminals to the next outlet in line for continuous ground protection. Does that matter if I'm replacing all of the outlets with GFCI outlets?
They covered up the terminals that you should not use if you are not feeding downstream outlets via the GFCI. If you are replacing all outlets with GFCI outlets, don't remove the label.
 

tracyballard

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But if the outlet I'm replacing already has wires to both sets of terminals, do I need to wire both and figure out which wires are going downstream?
 

Reach4

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But if the outlet I'm replacing already has wires to both sets of terminals, do I need to wire both and figure out which wires are going downstream?
I think that you will need to connect two existing wires to each of the non-covered terminals using a wire nut combining 3 wires with a pigtail to the switch. I might put two wires on one terminal, but I think that is not the approved method today. I am not an electrician.
 

tracyballard

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there is an electrician on youtube showing how to connect multiple GFCI's on the same circuit, and he is putting both black and both white wires on one terminal, the line terminal he calls it (using the back holes to plug the wires into), so you seem to be confirming that is what I need to do here - have both wires going to the terminal without the label since I am using all GFCI's. And I guess that leaves the terminals that are covered with the labels as being the load terminals?
 

Jadnashua

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If some/all of those receptacles are on the same circuit, you're wasting a huge amount of money by replacing all of them with GFCI devices. For the cost of that, you could probably have replaced the circuit breaker with a GFCI, and then 3-prong receptacles.

It's fairly easy, for me at least, to figure out which pair of wires is the source, and which is the feed-through. If you can do that, it's also time to figure out which receptacle is the first one in the daisy chain. Once you do, put the cable with the power coming in on the line side, and attach the outgoing set on the load side, and everything downstream will be protected.

Usually, but by no means all of the time, the first device on the run is the one closest to the power panel, and then branches out from there. Turn the power off, disconnect the first one that has two cables, check to see what other(s) are now off (they'd be on the same circuit), turn the power back on and see what works and what doesn't. If you have at least one that is still on when that first one you disconnected, that means that it is not the first one in the path...check that one in a similar manner. If you can make a discrete notation on the cover, I like to mark it with which circuit breaker number controls it. Note, there could be more than one circuit in the same box.

If this is all beyond you, you shouldn't probably be doing this work.

If you don't want to go through that, Reach's suggestion of using a wire-nut to combine the leads with a pigtail then to the device would work best.
 

Kreemoweet

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There's a certain advantage to simply replacing all ungrounded receptacles with a GFCI at each box.
1) It's so simple. If the plug goes dead, you just have to push the Reset button.
2)If a receptacle is on the load side of a GFCI, people using it must understand what the label "GFCI-protected outlet"
means, must put them on the appropriate cover plates, and ensure they stay there. I've seen numerous (expensive!)
electrician service calls made just because folks weren't clued in to the workings of their GFCI-protected outlets.
 

Jadnashua

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Well, yes, that can be true, especially if the GFCI is in one room, maybe hidden behind furniture, and then protects numerous receptacles in other rooms as well. But, doing lots of them, it may just work out better to use a GFCI breaker...then, one place to look for something tripped. The good thing is that they don't often trip unless you tend to deal with some maybe ill advised things.
 

WorthFlorida

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....One other thing, I assume using the back wire method is preferred to wrapping around the terminal? please let me know if not......

I love the backwire method (not backstab) especially if you are dealing with wires that have no slack and you are daisy chaining outlets. For what you want to do you can place both wires (in and out) under one screw and not having to pigtail twice at every outlet. With old wire sometimes trying to straighten out the wire from being curled over a screw for 50 years, the copper wire may break. If there is plenty of slack, nip off the exposed copper and strip back about 3/8" of insulation. Be sure that you tighten down on the screw. Liviton make a good product and should not worry about stripping the screw. I use a Klein tool that has a combination tip that fits inside the screw head for electrical outlets and switches. It ios bith flat blad and square and it doesn't slip out.

https://www.kleintools.com/catalog/single-bit-screwdrivers/1-combo-tip-driver-4-inch-fixed-blade

klein-tools-screwdriver-sets-32378-1d_145.jpg


https://www.amazon.com/Combo-Driver...ination+tip+screwdriver&qid=1574728203&sr=8-1
 

Mliu

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Just by reading your questions, it's clear that you should NOT be doing this work yourself. Improper wiring can lead to potentially fatal electrical shock or a house fire. Your life, the lives of others, and your house are all worth far more than the relatively small cost it would be to hire a LICENSED electrician to do this job (don't hire a "handyman").

Btw, if there's a fire and it's discovered that you improperly wired these outlets yourself, you can probably kiss your homeowner's insurance away. Same goes for any liability coverage if someone is shocked and injured or killed.
 
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