Increasing Water Pressure

Discussion in 'Pumps and Tanks Well Forum & Blog. Water is life.' started by gdunkle, Aug 6, 2018.

  1. gdunkle

    gdunkle New Member

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    Aug 6, 2018
    Location:
    PA
    I share a well with my parents. What is the best way to increase the water pressure at my house without increasing my parents'? I was initially looking at shallow water well pumps, but then saw booster pumps that don't have a tank. Are either of these the correct solution or do I need to go in a different direction?

    Thanks in advance for taking the time to provide any advice you can - I appreciate it!
     
  2. Reach4

    Reach4 Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Sep 25, 2013
    Location:
    IL
    How about some numbers? Like what is the water pressure at your house, and what are the pressures at your parents?

    Is your low pressure only when you are using a lot of water, or is your static pressure low also because you are at 60 ft more altitude? If just when you are using water, maybe a new bigger water line would be a better choice. More initial cost/work, but much more reliable.

    If you do need a booster, the Amtrol Pressuriser RP Series looks a lot better to me for a pre-configured unit than the micro-tank units. [​IMG] I am not a pro.

    Hey, why wouldn't this make a nice booster? [​IMG] Check valve on the input.
     
    Last edited: Aug 6, 2018
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  4. gdunkle

    gdunkle New Member

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    Aug 6, 2018
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    Thanks for your reply.

    I'll get a water pressure gauge and post my pressure. Won't be able to test my parents.

    I feel like the static pressure is low.

    The well is about 86.5 feet from my house. The well is uphill from my house by about 7 degrees.

    The Amtrol Pressuriser RP Series looked promising, but I read:

    "Amtrol only recommends this for city pressure." "This pump should not be used in series with another pump (such as in private well water systems)."

    What is the second unit you posted?
     
  5. Reach4

    Reach4 Well-Known Member

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    Sep 25, 2013
    Location:
    IL
    Not even from the outside hose spigot?

    The readings you take will be telling.

    You may find out that you have a cartridge filter that is restricting the flow, or some other thing. So you will get your gauge. Watch the pressure with no water being used. Then run water at a given rate. Note the pressure outside. Note the pressure inside. Where is the drop? You will know more.

    The hose spigot outside is usually getting water before any filters in the house. For inside pressures, you can use the laundry tap, or the drain on the water heater.

    I wonder why that would be. But is also says that the source requires at least 10 gpm of capacity. I don't see why 5 or 7 gpm capacity would not be enough.

    That is Valveman's avatar, and it represents a simple system for a normal shallow well. Let him weigh in on that one. This stuff is not as simple as I would hope.
     
  6. valveman

    valveman Cary Austin Staff Member

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    Pump Controls Technician
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    Lubbock, Texas
    Your not doing to darn bad! Can't use the Amtrol pressurizing thing, or any regular pressure tank controlled pump system. The booster pump will try to fill the pressure tank at 10+ GPM, which will deplete the pressure from the well pump and the other house. If the well pump cannot supply the 10 GPM a booster pump wants, the NPSH will go negative and you will starve the pump for water and cavitation will eat it up while making a lot of noise. I would also stay away from the tankless units like the Scala, MQ, Masscontrol, Duramac, Burcam, etc, etc. As you can tell from the number on the market those kind of units are made to sell, not necessarily to work and be cost effective.

    The PK1A will work with a small pump like a Goulds J5SH and build all the pressure you want. The small tank with the CSV won't deplete the well pressure, especially because it is being fed at 1 GPM from the CSV in the PK1A. Any booster can deplete the well pump and house pressure if you are using more than the well pump can supply. But the CSV will make the pump produce the same amount you are using. So if you don't use too much at any one time, you won't deplete the well pump pressure. Another thing needed is something like the Cycle Sensor to shut the booster pump if you do deplete the well pressure, or for times when the well isn't running but the booster could.

    Another option is to turn up the pressure switch on the well pump, and put a pressure reducing valve on the line to the parents house if they don't like the increased pressure.
     
  7. gdunkle

    gdunkle New Member

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    Aug 6, 2018
    Location:
    PA
    I will try to get a measurement from my parents.

    So, as it is configured right now, I have a 3/4" line that comes into the basement. Then it changes to 1/2". Next is the shut-off valve. Then it tees with one side going to just the toilet and the other side going just to the water heater. I unhooked the water heater inlet and put the gauge on that. I turned the water back on and the gauge went to 27 psi. Then things got confusing. Each time I flush the toilet, I get a different number from 38-60psi.
     
  8. Reach4

    Reach4 Well-Known Member

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    Location:
    IL
    That is weird, but in this case, weird is good. There is probably a solution that will not involve you adding a pump.

    I was thinking of putting the gauge on the WH drain valve (garden hose thread). Maybe that is what you did.

    So when things sit quietly, and you are not using water, you might have 27 PSI. Then you flush a toilet and the pressure goes up? I don't have an explanation yet, but you have some interesting symptoms. Try to get some more pressure readings. I think next to hook the pressure gauge to your outdoor hose spigot.

    Is the well pressure tank in your parent's house, or is in a well house?
     
  9. gdunkle

    gdunkle New Member

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    Aug 6, 2018
    Location:
    PA
    Valveman: Thank you, I am in contact with Corye.

    Reach4:

    So, over the past few days, I have been checking the gauge in the AM before anyone should be drawing any water and it seems to sit consistently at about 38 to 40 psi.

    The well pressure tank is in the cinder-block hole in the ground.
     
  10. Reach4

    Reach4 Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Sep 25, 2013
    Location:
    IL
    Best simple solution will probably be to increase the pressure at the well house to 40/60 or 50/70. That may be at 30/50 now. Cranking up the pressure will raise pressures through the system.

    You still want to check the pressures at your house when you are showering etc.
     
  11. gdunkle

    gdunkle New Member

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    Aug 6, 2018
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    PA
    Ok, thanks.

    I only have the toilet and line to the water heater currently. Hoping to get this setup before redoing all the plumbing.
     
  12. Reach4

    Reach4 Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Sep 25, 2013
    Location:
    IL
    You may be saying that this is a newly evolving use of an older water line. If your measurements show a big loss of pressure between the pump and the house, you might consider a new water line below the frost line. Not trivial, but not terrible cost either. It's not a maintenance item like a booster pump workaround would be.

    However cranking up the pressure to 50/70 is free if the pump is up to it. And odds are, the pump is up to it. Water pressures up to 80 are considered normal for a house.
     
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